11072622100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Unplugged dryer, removed 2 screws under filter lid, removed filter, removed access panel on back of machine, removed blower motor housing, vacuumed all dust and debris from rear of dryer, turned dryer around and opened top of dryer using a small screwdriver to release the clips approximately 2" from either end, then securing top from falling by using bailing wire to hold it in place, disconnected door switch wiring harness, removed 2- 5/16 screws retaining front panel and removed front panel from dryer, removed drum from dryer, removed idler pulley from bottom of cabinet noting position of drum belt, vacuumed dust and debris from bottom of cabinet and around old motor, removed motor retaining clips rotated motor and removed wiring harness from motor. I then attempted to remove the blower wheel from the old motor and here is where the problem began. If your dryer has the original motor in it, or the motor has never been changed in it to the best of your knowledge, go ahead and order a new blower wheel with your other parts, because you will not get the old one off without destroying it. (this cost me several days to complete the repair). Do not use channel locks or vice grips to attach to the front pulley to remove or install the blower wheel... use 2 medium sized crescent (adjustable) wrenches otherwise the pulley will be damaged and you will have a lot of filing to do to repair it. (If you need to reuse the pulley. I did not as my motor and pulley was an exact replacement). I got the blower wheel off of the old motor by using a chisel and a hammer and cutting a hole around the attachment point on the motor shaft from the rear of the dryer. After this, the job was pretty easy. I put the new motor in the motor housing, put a crescent wrench on the pulley on the front of the new motor, then screwed the new blower wheel onto the motor from the back of the dryer. (remember, the blower wheel has left handed threads, so to install it you have to turn the pulley on the motor to the LEFT to thread it into the wheel.) After the blower wheel is installed and hand tight, use 2 crescent wrenches to tighten down on motor, (1 on the blower wheel hub where it is square, and 1 on the front pulley) rotate the motor down to the correct position for the wiring loom, (you want the wires to rest on the bottom of the cabinet when the job is complete)., then reinstall the motor retaining clips and attach wiring harness. At this point I installed new drum rollers, reinstalled the drum with a new drum belt, and replaced the idler pulley with a new one. (push the drum counter clockwise by hand a few times to center the drum belt and to make sure that the drum is on the drum rollers correctly). The front panel is now reinstalled being careful to make sure the clips on the cabinet engage the holes in the panel. Push back on the drum slightly and reinstall the 2- 5/16 screws to hold the front panel to the cabinet, then reattach the wiring harness for the door switch. Remove the bailing wire and close the lid. The blower wheel housing is then reinstalled, then reinstall the rear access panel. Reinstall the filter and the 2 screws under the filter lid. Plug in the dryer and your repair is complete. When a motor replacement is required, you are better off replacing the motor, blower wheel, drum rollers, drum belt, and idler pulley. I did and my dryer sounds and performs like a new one. My wife is absolutely delighted. I spent approximately $180.00 on the total repair while a new dryer would have cost me $600.00 + tax.

I actually found the repair to be quite easy. This dryer along with the washer are basic models and over 15 years old. I have replaced just about every part on these machines. The more "basic" the model; without all the bells and whistles and electronics, the easier they are to repair yourself. I used a YouTube video for this particular model for the repair. All the items you sent arrived in superb condition and delivered in just a couple of days! Absolutely fantastic and professional service bar-none! I would highly recommend your site to anyone looking for 1st rate products and unbelievable speedy service. I will be using you again for any and all repairs for my appliances. Thank you very much for the outstanding customer service. Kindest Regards, Bruce

1. Shut off power to dryer 2. Remove back panel covers with 1/4" nut driver 3. Use ohm meter to determine continuity at various thermal couples (3) and the one thermal fuse on the blower panel. . (This was the "bad "one in my case) 4. Remove two wires and remove the one screw that holds fuse. Did not have the model# for dryer, so I took the part# from the blown fuse and found it at partselect. Com. . They even showed an exact picture of the part I needed. . Ordered on tuesday/arrived by fed x on saturday. . . Reverse procedure to install. .

Follow instructions from online video supplied by Parts Select. Repair went very smooth!! Dryer started up and I am back in business. Thank You Parts Select!

After I received the new belt I un-plugged the electric cord and shut off the gas supply. I pulled the dryer about 10 inches away from the wall to remove the vent duct from the back of the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the clips on bottom front panel and a screw driver to pop the front of the top at the left side and right side, removed the two Phillips head screws under the lint door, then lifted the top to the vertical position. Loosened the hex head screws at the bottom of the upper front panel (don't take them out). At the top back side of the front panel, pull off the electrical wires from the door interlock switch and pull the retainer holding the wires to the front panel (don't take the plastic clip from the wires.) Place some wood blocks to support the drum at the front of the drum. Use the nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside at the top of the front panel. Disconnect the two springs that hold the door closed. Lift the panel from the two loosened nuts at the bottom and pull it away from the drum and let the drum settle on the blocks of wood to support it. Place the new belt around the drum lining it up where the old belt left its mark around the drum with the grooved surface facing the drum. Replace the front upper panel with the door to engage to two tabs on the screws you left at the bottom. Lift the drum so that it engages with the opening in the front panel. In case where the drum had dropped too far, use the putty knife to engage the felt flange at the rear of the drum with the rear cabinet flange. Reinstall the two screws at the top that you had removed. Reconnect the two wires at the interlock switch and snap the clip with the wires to the flange of the upper front panel. Replace the door springs on the hinge extensions to the flange at the bottom of the cabinet. Set the Idler pulley assembly into the cabinet floor sliding the end tab into the slot and the two tabs fit into the holes in the floor. Pull a loop of the belt under the idler pulley and then pull it toward the motor pulley. You might use the shaft of your Phillips screw driver instead of you fingers to get it around the pulley on the motor shaft. Turn the drum by had for several complete turns to ensure that the belt lines up on the drum and that the drum isn't binding on the back or front seals. Close the top, snapping onto the top of the cabinet. Plug the dryer into the electric outlet and set the timer to Fluff Air range and push the start button with the door closed. The drum should be turning smoothly. Open the door and all should stop. Reconnect the Vent and move the dryer back to its former position. Turn gas supply on but do not start the dryer. Check for gas leaks. If you find a leak in either at connectors or the flexible connecter call a qualified contractor to replace the flex connecter. Otherwise you can then set for one of the dryer settings and push the start button and observe the burner through the lower panel to see that the igniter is lighting up and finally the gas turns on and a decent blue flam is burning in the combustion tube. Open the dryer door and the flame should cut off and the drum stop turning. You are ready to set the bottom panel. Set the panel on the two lower tabs and close it upward until the snaps lock it in position. Job Done

I replaced the Thermal fuse and this fixed the problem.

Unplug appliance from power source. Started by simply using screwdriver or steel putty knife to snap up the top corners of the top section of the dryer. It swings open like the hood of a auto. Looked on the back side of the front panel and found small 5/16" bolts on either side. Removed these bolts and lifted up on the front panel to remove the panel. Slide panel out of the way far enough to access the coil kit on the lower front section of the dryer. (The wires going to the door control switch will allow this without unplugging.) May need a helper to hold the dryer drum up out of the way or prop it up as I did with a block of wood so you can easily unplug/re attach the coil wiring. There are two Phillips head screws that hold the coil keeper in place. Remove these two screws, unplug the two coils (front coil has a three connector plug and the one behind it has a two wore plug). the front coil has a small sleeve that I needed to transfer to the new coil in front. Inserted sleeve as it came out of the old coil, slid both coils back in place, replaced coil retainer being careful to line tabs on top of coils so that they lined up in the coil keeper. Replaced screws in coil keeper. Placed front panel back on being careful not to damage the felt liner that the drum spins on. Replaced the two bolts on the inner side of each corner of the front panel. Lowered the top panel and firmly pushed it back down so that the holders went in place. Plugged it up and it worked perfectly.

It was really easy. First we watched a Youtube video about gas dryers that wouldn't heat, and then we did exactly what the guy recommended on the video -- try to see if the igniter lit (it didn't), but then he recommended we check the thermostat and some other fuses. So, like he recommended, we removed the back, checked the thermostat, etc. We initially bought the wrong part, but when we got the right one, it took less than 15 minutes to get it in and working. It was a snap. Just had to remove a few screws, unplug the old igniter, plug in the new igniter, and put in the few screws that held it in place. EASY!!

This repair is very simple. (1) remove the lint screen bracket on top - two phillips head screws. (2) Gently pry open the top of the dryer with a large flat head screwdriver. It hinges backward. (3) Remove the top two nuts on the front panel. Lift the panel upward off the lower brackets. The door wiring is still connected, so I just rotated the front panel to the side. The interior is now exposed. (4) Take the drum belt off the tensioner assembly and pull the drum out. (5) Remove the coil retention plate - two phillips screws. (6) Disconnect the old coils, install new coils. I started the dryer up while disassembled to ensure the new coils worked and the burner fired. But a word of caution ... don't run the burner long with the dryer apart, as it could overheat. After all of this, reverse the process. YouTube also has a couple good videos showing all of this visually. I have very average mechanical skills, and this was an easy job. Another word of caution: most of the metal surfaces inside the dryer have nice sharp edges. Invest in a good pair of gloves to avoid mincing your hands up.

Ordered your fuse & thermostat. Total $37.29, installed parts & still no heat. Ordered your 240v Heating element.. Total $77.43, installed part & still no heat, Removed 30amp circuit breaker and purchased replacement for $11.30 in town. Installed breaker, dryer now has heat. Still smiling as I keep telling my self I performed preventive maintenance on my dryer!!!

First of all, Parts Select is a great service. By giving us an idea of what parts we needed we were able to buy them without a lot of expense. My son and I did this repair together, and it took us a long time. We found an excellent video for repair on the web, and then lost it and couldn't find it again. We had trouble even getting the dryer opened up. That is where a putty knife comes in handy. Be sure to find out how to open it; it will save you a lot of grief. It is supposed to be easy, but it wasn't. Still,it was great to get it fixed so inexpensively. I'll leave the "how I did it" part up to people who had an easier time, but no regrets that we did it. Parts select sent the parts right away.We ended up only using the coil kit.

I followed the video directions exactly as instructed and I had no problem doing the repair myself. And if I can do it being a woman with no help you can do it. Easy peasy~

flame sensor was a little tricky since a wrench was necessary since there was no clearance buy pretty simple put back plug in started still no heat after 6 min running time . now it coil kit so simple was surprised change out both and put cover back on plug in started and been drying ever since thanks for all your help

Removed back panel and tested all components. Everything was good so had to remove front to test last 2 components. Removed front and used brick (handy tool when your working solo) to hold drum up and in place (with full load of damp towels). Defective igniter. Testing all took 10 minutes, replacement took 2. Spent more time opening and putting machine back together than testing and replacement took.

1.Installed thermal fuse. I thought this was the problem as a few years ago this fixed the dryer that was now experiencing a similar problem. Problem persisted. 2. Installed new thermostat. Problem persisted. 3. Installed new igniter coils. Eureka! Problem solved!