11072514102 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Popped top up Took front panel screws out. Looked for other damage. Put belt around the tumbler and got it hooked up. Grew an extra set of hands and re assembled front the checkd seals to make sure they where on and put top back down... Process is a pain in the butt i reccomend socket set channel lock pliers and a cold beverage or two

Pushed the new catch in by hand. Working great.

Removed top and front panels, lifted front of drum, slid new belt on drum then thru tension and motor pulleys. reassembled.

After getting on-line to your site we looked up what the problem could be after receiving the dryer from a friend to transfer from electric to gas to save money. First we thought it to be the ignitor and after receiving it so quickly it still didn't work so went to your site again and found the Flame sensor. They were both defective and now it works wonderful!!! Your site also explains what and how to repair the appliance, which my husband appreciated! We are glad you contacted us because your site did not show that we could send you and e-mail Thanking your company for the excellant service we received. Your prices can't compare to other companies either, we were amazed on the differences. When you say the next day delivery, you mean the next day!!! Thankyou and you are now in my Favorites if ever needing parts for other appliances we own.

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

first I unplugged the dryer. Then I removed the back of the dryer with a 1/4" nut driver. with the back off using the same 1/4" nut driver I removed the one screw that holds the cycling t-stat slowly remove the t-stat and take one wire off at a time and plug it onto the new t-stat once all wires are replaced. place the t-stat back in and secure with the screw. Then put the back of the dryer back on. put the dryer vent hose back on. plug in and away you go. repair done. If that doesn't fix it. Then the next step is probably to check the gas valve coils. That is a little more difficult repair but not to hard.

Removed two screws from front panel and lifted front panel away, Turned it to the left so I could keep the door switch connected. The dryer would heat when it was first started, but then the burner would go off and would not come back on. I ran the dryer with the front panel off and could see the igniter glow and light the burner, but after the burner cycled off, the igniter would come back on but the gas would not come back on. I could tell it wasn't the thermostat because the igniter would come on, so I knew it must be the gas valve, and therefore probably the coils. The instructions on the website said that the coils were frequently intermittent, so that seemed like the problem. I tried checking out the coil resistance with an ohmmeter to try to confirm that, but couldn't really tell anything that way. I ordered the replacement coils Tuesday night, selecting the cheapest shipping; they shipped on Wednesday, and were delivered on Thursday! Amazingly fast! Removed two screws from the clip that holds the coils in place, unplugged the old coils, swapped in the new coils, screwed the retaining clip back on. All done. Before I replaced the front panel, I watched to see that it operated correctly. I could see the burner cycle off, then after a bit, the igniter glowed, and then the gas came back on and lit, just like it should. Problem solved. Put the front panel back on, and that's all there was to it. Well, I did vacuum out some of the dust inside the cabinet while I had the cover off. Just out of curiosity, I checked the resistance of the new coils before I installed them to compare with the old ones. Couldn't see much difference.

Watched several videos online and was suggested that the thermal fuse was bad, so i replaced it but no fix. So i checked the previews Q&A from other costumers and watched the videos on how to replace different parts. I first looked thru the peep hole on the bottom left part of the dryer and saw the igniter glow for about 10 sec every minute but no flame would start. So i replaced the igniter, the flame sensor, and the coils all at once. I know thats not the proper way to troubleshoot something but i was gonna take the drum out and everything so mind as well replace them all. Dryer works like new and dont have to listen to the wife complaint anymore!!!

Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

I replaced both the Thermal fuse and Cycling Thermostat, both of which cost less than fourty dollars. just removed the back panel, and replaced the parts in less tham a minute. Replaced the back panel. Job done.

follow Steve the repairman's instructions they were very good

I started with the process of elimination, based on the web site part failure percentage...so I started with the cycling thermostat and thermal fuse, without success. Next, I placed an order for the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit Part # PS334310. Which, are located behind the lower front panel

My wife hates me because I keep repairing our appliances. The dryer and washing machine are now 21 years old and look like new. To replace these two parts, first check if the igniter is glowing at all when you turn the dryer on. To do this remove the access panel in front on the bottom. To remove it, slide a flat screw driver across the slot onto of the panel to locate the release clips. Depress the release clamps by sliding the screw driver on top and pull the panel forward. Now start the machine and see if the igniter glows. If not proceed to replace the Thermal Fuse and both thermostats. To do so, open the back panel of the unit. First disconnect power and vent. Unscrew and replace components which will be easily seen on the bulk head. Use a pliers to remove the contacts. Your machine will now last another twenty years and your wife will hate you as does mine:)

Took the back cover off. Replaced fuse and put the cover back on. Worked great.

Replacing the cycling thermostat went really fast and easy. Unplug the dryer. Remove the 6-8 hex-head screws holding the back panel in place. The thermostat location is in the lower left. below the black discharge air duct. Note the location and/or tag the wires connected to it. Pull off the wires and remove the screw holding the thermostat in place and remove it. Reverse the procedure for installation of the new thermostat. Where this got tricky was it did not solve the problem. A strict diagnosis based on the electrical schematic alone would have, and did, indicate a faulty thermostat, i.e. on that was not opening. However, what I found was surprising. The heating element coil had broken and part of it had "welded" to the casing, grounding it and effectively turning the 240V heater into a 120V heater. This allowed the heater to provide heat (low heat). However, the timer motor needs 240V to operate and since one leg of the heater was grounded the timer could not get 240V when the thermostat cycled off. Replacing the heating element solved the problem.