11072212100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Removed the two screws fromt he lint track on the top of the dryer. Inserted putty knife between the top of the fromt panel and the dryer top and pushed in to release the two catches for the front panel. I rested the top panel against the wall to get it out of the way of the front panel . Next I removed the two nuts at the top of the front panel . Removed the electrical safety connector for the door using a very small screwdriver to release the catch. Pull up on the front panel to detach it from the bottom catches. I rested the drum on a couple of 2x4s to support it while the front panel was off. Locate the housing for the coils which is on the front of the dryer left side. Remove the cover fromt he coil housing by using a stubby phillips screwdriver and remove the top two screws. Remove the wiring connectors from each of the coils. Replace the coils being careful to align the coils with the "keys" in the housing cover. Reverse the process to complete the job taking care to ensure the felt around the drum does not bind.

This is a straightforward repair that you can do in an hour or less. Open the lint trap and remove the two screws. Use a screwdriver to pop up the top of the dryer. Remove two screws that attach the front panel. Now you can lift out the drum and then lift off the front panel. Clean out all the lint. Make sure the motor pulley turns smoothly. Tilt back the dryer diagonally to make the rest go easier. Loop the new belt around the drum (rubber side down) and reinstall the drum against the back wall of the dryer. Make sure the cloth liner fits perfectly around the ridge, with no folds so the drum rotates easily. Make sure the drum fits smoothly against the two rubber positioning wheels on the back wall. Position the new belt around the center of the drum. On the dryer floor, stand up the tensioner bracket. Tricky part -- thread the belt so it runs through the bracket and loops around the drive pulley on the motor, rubber side against the pulley. The belt should be tight, held by the tensioner. Reinstall the front panel so the opening aligns with the drum opening. Drop the top down, snap into place.and reattach the screws in the lint trap. Done!

Since the power and gas to the dryer were both already turned off all I had to was open the top of the dryer, remove the front panel, look underneath the drying drum and remove the belt tensioner from the belt and slide the drying drum out. While things were open I took my vacuum and vacuumed all the lint, dirt and loose articles from over time out of the dryer interior. I located the igniter, used a nut driver to remove one screw pulled the igniter from its housing and disconnected the wiring harness. For installation I reversed the process and I was done. I reinstalled the drying drum, reattached the belt tensioner, put the front panel back in place and closed the dryer top. Attached the dryer vent hose, plugged the dryer to the electrical outlet, turned on the gas and walla it purred like a kitten. It even seem to dry faster than before.

Checked the resistor to confirm it was good. Removed the two screws that are accessible after you pull the lint screen out. Use puddy knife to release the two plastic clips that hold the top on. The top will pop up like car hood. You have to pull up on it with steady pressure. I used a plastic puddy knife to prevent scratching anything. Prop top up so it does not fall back down and strike your head or fingers. On each side inside the housing there is a sheet metal screw that holds the front of the dryer on. Before you remove them unplug the door switch wire. As you get these off you will notice that the whole front is loose and the drum looks like it will fall out. It may if you mess with it. Gently tip the front away from the dryer housing and drum assembly. After the front is out about 5 inches pull up and the bottom can be moved away out of the small hook clips. Set it aside. The burner assembly is on the lower left. The coils are there remove the sheet metal screws and lift it up. Remove them one at a time. Notice the small locate pin and position the coil in the same orientation assemble in reverse. The door is tricky to get back on. Don't forget to unplug before doing any work. This can be done without disconnecting the gas service.

Disconnect back of dryer gas/elec then I unscrewed the back panel, and chisel the panel off with a hammer and a old wood chisel to remove the welds spots, changed out the thermostat and I had to use tap screws to put back panel

used your video instructions were great a great tool to repair. know wonder the maytag man is not busy ha ha .

Unplug electric, open top, take off front, with a small Phillips screw driver remove two screws securing the coils, remove one coil at a time, unplug and replace with new coil, secure with metal bracket and reinstall front and top and your done.

The dual cil gas valves were out of resistance range. The new coils were easy to install with a screw driver, sockets set and multi-meter.I checked the coil resistance and one of the new coils were a little high, but I installed them and they have been working fine.

watched the repair video and had no problem doing the repairs. they were VERY helpful!

so being the WOMAN that I am I decided to take it apart. well low and behold I found out it was the pulley and belt so I decide too order from parts select easiest thing I've ever done yay me

Watched the tutorial online. Took the back off- replaced the fuse. Put the back on . It was extremely easy !!

The online vidio was very helpfull

Replace the switch in diagram #4.

Unplugged the power cord. Removed two screws on lint vent , used putty knife to release clips to raise top at front of unit. Disconnected the plug from front door switch. Laid dryer on its back. Removed two screws to remove front including the door. Vacuumed lint from inside unit. Installed belt temporarily using two pieces of masking tape to hold it in place while properly routing the belt. Gave the tub a full turn to insure alignment.. Reinstalled the front of unit with the two screws. Righted the unit and snapped down the top. Replaced the two lint vent screws. Plugged it back in and done! Piece of cake!

Once I watched a YouTube video showing me how to do the job I ordered the part from you. Am so impressed with your fast shipping and best prices via the Internet. Thank you SO much! The water level switch was easy to install, it ws getting the cover on the washer back on that was hard for me since I am 68 yrs old and have a bad knee. Its why it took me two hours to do what most people could do in 20 minutes.