11072064100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

First I opened the front of my dryer panel to see when the dryer was on if there was any gas flowing. I found that the ignitor was glowing , but no gas was releasing from the valve. So I figured that that is the root of the problem. I changed the old gas valves and replaced them with the new ones. It worked!! The whole process didn't take more than 30 minutes.

After trying to follow a very detailed description by another consumer, we googled our washer and found a site that showed step by step direction that took us through removing all panels and getting to the bellow easily. Not removing the proper panels, we found was making the job hard!I believe the site was applicance services...very helpful! Step by step literally!!Cost of parts through parts select reasonable.

This did not require a "repair", just a replacement. I want to say that the response time and ease of ordering were very good. I would not hesitate to use PartSelect again when needed. Thank you!

pulled out old lint filter. Put in new lint filter.

Repair was very easy simply used a screwdriver to remove the cracked old latch and used my fingers to insert my new latch.

I did continuity tests on the on/off push switch and the thermostats - all were good. After some research I discovered the thermal switch which is somewhat hidden on top of the blower. Sure enough, it failed the continuity test. The two sheet metal screws are difficult to loosen from the access door at the bottom of the dryer. You can test the fuse from that location but it's more difficult to replace it without taking the entire dryer apart, which is what I ultimately did. Once the drum is out the fuse is very accessible. However, if you need to make this repair, try replacing the fuse from the lower panel (and avoid the time/effort in removing the drum). You might be able to use a 1/4" open-end wrench (or pliers) to loosen the sheet metal screws. I only had a standard ratchet set which is too big to fit into that tight space. Either way, it's not a complicated repair...watch the installation video - it's not exact but it's close enough to guide you through this.

At first I thought the sensor in the drum part was bad. It had some residue from something on it and looked a bit beat up. Replaced it for 30$ and had the same problem. Note: I decided to take the console panel off because I though it was necessary to get to everywhere else and I found a folded up "repairman trouble shooting guide" in the console. Don't know if this is a common place to put it but it had all the wiring and problems detailed with this dryer. It had step-by-step assessment procedures for any problem. However, I punched the sequence for the "brains" to give me a problem code and it indicated that I needed a new "user interface," a 285$ part. I must have punched it wrong because I started to read other problem descriptions and I realized, based on others, that the most likely cause was the coils that regulate the gas/heat valve. I used the "problem guide" to measure the resistance of the coils (it gives you the proper range for each) and one was outside of what it should have been so I purchased a new set of coils for $20 plus shipping. It took me 2 tries at installing the coils because the cover plate that seats the coils in place was not aligned properly the first time. This cause them to vibrate and rattle when starting up. The coils were a little different in height so I readjusted the cover bracket and seated the coils properly. No rattle and the dryer worked perfectly.

Need a short handled phillips screwdriver. Unplug dryer from socket. Remove two screws near the bottom of the front panel. Swing the panel to one side so electrical wire doesn't need disconnection. Remove two screws holding bracket over the two coils. Unplug both coils. Plug in new coils. Replace bracket. Replace front panel. Plug machine back into electrical socket. Problem solved.

The dryer was spinning, but the display said "sensing" for the whole cycle, and there was no heat. We took off the front of the dryer and the fuse was below the drum. This was an easy swap out, but it didn't fix the dryer. Then we ordered a thermistor, which also was an easy swap out but didn't fix the dryer. Last, we bought an ohm meter and tested the heating element, and discovered it did not have continuity. I had already ordered the heating element, as that was the next item to check on the list. The element was much harder to replace, because you have to take off the drum.

Popped the panel open & replaced the one that was missing with a new one!

Replaced igniter

1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.

I got great advice and the know how form other's instructions. It was a really easy fix. I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas valve. Open up the dryer by taking out the two screws securing the lint screen. Then pop off the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver. Disconnect the door switch and depending on model remove the two screws or bolts that keep the front panel attached. Careful, on my dryer once took the front panel off the drum fell forward. I kept it in place by wedging a small cardboard box under it. Unplug the two wires going into each of the coils. Remember which one goes where(2 prong vs 3 prong). Undue the two screws holding the bracket to the coils and remove bracket and bad coils. Put the new coils in, attach wires and bracket. Put dryer back together. Make sure to remember to plug back in door switch. I forgot and when I tried to test it wouldn't work and it got me worried that I broke it or something.

I feel like I have a new dryer now. I replace 3 of the 4 main components using parts select. Not only did they ship next day, but the tutorial videos with Steven were right on the money and self explanative.

Disconnected the power and duct from the dryer. Removed the back and top of the dryer by removing the 1/4" screws. Created slack in the belt by compressing the spring and moving the idler arm.Slid the belt off the pulley. Removed the tri-ring clip, slid the old pulley and gasket off. Cleaned and inspected the shaft and vacuumed the inside of the dryer. replaced the gasket, pulley and tri-ring clip. Replaced the top and back of the dryer. Connected duct and power.