11070922990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Removed front panel unscrewed the 2 screws on the coil cover. The coil with two prongs had to upside down 3 the prong coil right side up that only way the cove will fit, plug them in re attach the cover and your done

Parts came as ordered and in really good time. The valves were very easy to install, just a matter of removing lower housing and the two screws holding in the old valves. The plug and play, no calibration needed and the dryer works like new. Very easy fix and the instructional videos were very helpful. Saved a lot of money doing it myself.

Replaced bad coils

Remove the back cover from the dryer after unplugging unit from electrical outlet. Remove the belt by moving tension arm. Remove the tension spring (by hand). Remove the idler pulley bracket with a nut driver. Remove the Tri-Star retaining clip with a screw driver. Remove the old idler pulley. Remove old washer... replace with new washer and idler pulley... I could have reused the tri star retaining clip but elected to use new one. Put arm back on, re-hook spring, realign belt, put back cover back on... dry clothes.

Removed 2 screws at the lint filter, unplugged dryer, next I popped the top off with a standard screw driver lifted the top all the way up and secured it from falling back down, used a 5/16" nut driver to remove the top 2 screws holding the face on, disconnected the door switch, pulled the face panel off and set it aside, then I removed the tension pulley on the bottom and took the drum out, unscrewed 2 screws holding the coils removed the old coils and installed the new reconnected the leads to them, vacuumed out the cabinet and motor, inspected all moving parts for wear, including the belt, reinstalled every thing in reverse order, had job complete and ready for clothes in 9 mins, it helps to have your son/daughter hold the drum against the back wall while reconnecting the tensioner and belt.

First I opened the back panel & check the fuse with multi meter tool ( put in ohms & set it in 200K) & the fuse is Ok, try to run the dryer while looking in the flame dock & the burner starts & had a fire till about 2-3 mins. & flame comes off, what I did is I open the front door to access into the gas burner, check gas valve coils with multi meter tool for continuity & found out that one of the coil doesn't have continuity. I ordered a pair of coil that is located on top of the gas valve on this site & unexpectedly it came in the next day, WOW! that's a fast delivery I was very pleased w/ the service, come home from work & installed it right away & it took me 5-10 mins. Put back everything & try to run it & it works properly. So happy with & my wife as we'll, thanks for the great fast delivery.

Removed two small screws on door edge, pop out broken part, insert new part, replace screws. Took 2 minutes 18 seconds. Nice to have various door catches in the Kit. This was a repair on a 1979 Whirlpool Dryer. Great price & service!!

Simply slid new idler wheel on then popped thr tri ring on. The belt replacment was the hardest thing which was also easy. I think pulling the dryer away from the wall was the most difficult thing.

Shut of power to the dryer, removed the two screws that hold the control assembly on. Then rocked it forward and up to gain access. Unplugged the two wires and with a quarter turn, removed the old switch. Replaced switch and assembled in reverse order and it was good to go.

Repair was easy, remove bottom cover, remove screws that hold coil bracket, remove old coils & slip new ones on & button up. Dryer works fine now.Had the new parts within 3 days. Thanks PartSelect!

The part came in very quickly. If you know how to remove the front panel, it is very easy to repair. The hard part is to diagnose the problem. The first thing to check is the igniter. If it comes on then you look for faulty limit switches. If you have lots of training in electronics and appliance repair this is very easy, if you do not I would not try this. I have 40 years in the repair business, It still took me 1hr. to find the problem. the switch was intermitted, one time the dryer would work the next time it would not. Good luck and happy repairs.

Unplug. Remove door and front panel. Unplug two coils. Remove one screw and loosen other on bracket holding coils in place. Slide off coils and replace ( take note one has terminals up and one down). Reassemble.

First I stumbled around on my own trying to figure out the problem then I remembered PartSelect & the info I got to fix the dishwasher. The info given for the dryer pointed to 2 main problems for no heat, tested them with the Ohm meter & ordered the part. We have a dryer again !!

Upon receipt of the new vent kit, I removed the dryer from its location and took it in to the garage. This facilitated a roomier work space. The directions were easy to follow and the work to be performed was very easy in this setting.

My father and I were deciding on weather or not to purchase a new stove. The stove had always worked well but one of the front burners would not work and the broiler element was cracked in half. I thought I could fix it and save alot of money and not have to purchase a new one. I entered the model # into the search engine from parts select, alot of discontinued parts came up that were unavailable. I then went to search by product and narrowed the selection to brand,size,metal,and category such as electrical. I was given like models that have these parts in common. I was surprised how many parts were available for my stove. I had originaly bought the unit through Montgomery Ward. Admiral, Maytag, and Whirlpool share many of the same parts. From the photos and descriptions I was able to find the correct parts. I purchased a new burner element and a broiler element. Unplug the stove first. The tools needed were a Phillips screwdriver and believe it or not that is it. Two screws held the top of the stove to the main cabinet. After removing these screws from the bottom of the stove top. Note all you have to do to find them is open the door and look under the stove top. The whole stove top swings up and back letting you access the burner elements. Three screws hold the element to the bottom of the stove top. Remove these and note the four electrical wires attached to the burner element. Make sure you mark or notate the location of each wire. Attach the new burner and hook up the wires to it. I put the stove top back down and plugged in the range. The new burner element worked but the switch didn't shut it off. I unplugged the stove and removed the the back plate at the top of the stove. The plate is held on by eight Phillips screws. You only need to take the top back plate off. Don't take the bottom one off. After removing the the plate I could access the switches for each heating element. The left front switch had scorch marks on it, so I knew that it was burned out. Another way is to test the switch with a continuity tester and see if there are any open contacts on the switch. I ordered the switch. It was delivered in two days. I removed the old switch by pulling the knob off the switch and removed one Phillips head screw holding the switch in place. I removed each wire and attached them just as they were attached to the old switch. I ratcheted the switch and plugged the stove in to the outlet and the new burner and switch worked great. I removed the old broiler by taking two Phillips screws out and carefully pulled the old broiler element out. I only pulled the broiler element about four inches from the back of the stove. There are two wires that slide off the broiler element. Remove them but don't let them get pushed back into the holes that they are located in or you will have to take the entire back of the stove off and push them back through there openings. I unfortunately did this and this added time to the repair job. There are two Phillips screws that hold the broiler element holding bar they are located inside the roof of the stove. Remove these screws and slide the old broiler element out. Slide this holder on the new broiler. The holder slides back and fourth on the broiler element so you can position it in the right spot. First attach the electrical connections by sliding on the two wires to the broiler. Push the broiler ends back into there holes and attach them with the two Phillips screws. Next slide the broiler holder on to the broiler element and then position the broiler on the roof of the oven. Attach with the Phillips screws. After doing this I plugged the stove in and turned on the broiler and it works great. There were alot of screws that held the back top plate to the stove and other screws that attached the switch, burner element and broiler element in place, so it would be a good idea to note were these screws are placed. Then there will not be a problem matching