11070902990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Followed the parts select You tube video. Was helpful. Note the Ignitor kit is very sensitive. We didn't need an ignitor right now but purchased one in case the other 2 parts didn't help the problem. We took the ignitor ( wrapped in a bag) out of the packaging and it snapped in half without even touching the sensitive end. Note handle with extreme care.

This dryer refuses to die and I am happy to keep it that way. Door latch was replaced in less than a minute using this kit. Easiest repair ever.

Slipped screwdriver on top and bottom of catch and pullef out. Pressed new catch in plact. Job finished.

No repair. Just replaced the screens in the dryer and they slide in and out to clean. The felt gets worn fast.

This repair took me longer because I was just giving it a try - I have no experience, although I tend to be "handy." I'm sure anyone with experience would rate this as "easy" and have taken only a short time. I had to watch the video several times to understand what to do - and the comments were helpful too. My washer is an OLD maytag, so I removed the front of the dash and pulled it forward to access the electronics. My switch had only 2 prongs, so I hooked up to the "lid closed" option on the new switch. It works perfectly now. Very pleased I gave it a try.

Un plug dryer . Take off dryer door . Remove front panel by pulling out. Remove 2 screws holding coil bracket . Remove electrical connectors ,remove 2 coils . Install 2 new coils same as old ones connect elect. Wires replace coil holding bkt. Unplug flame sensor . Remove 1 screw . Replace old flame sensor with new plugin elect. Connector replace in reverse wala ,,,alldone button up dryer plug in dryer . . Good to go.

removed old one, threw it away, and inserted new one.

Dryer was making intermittent squealing noises sometimes it was amazingly loud, sometimes not so bad. Still, I figured this couldn't be good so I wanted to find a fix. Read the stories here and everything pointed to the 'idler pulley', so I figured I'd give it a try. For me, access was the hardest part -- my laundry room is small and I can't easily get the dryer out or move it around. Not a problem with the part, just my own setup. Important to note that this repair is best done through the BACK of the unit, not the front. Once I got access to the back (removing AC and Water used for the 'steam dry feature') I also had to disconnect several of the electrical connectors to get the unit fully apart. Good news -- the actual replacement of the pulley took about 1 minute! It was just all of the moving and disassembly that took so long. The original idler pulley had worked its way off of the shaft and was out of place and causing the squealing. All is well now, and I saved a bunch by doing it myself. No more squealing!

two screws on lint screen push up top two screws on front cover. two screws on coils lift coils off put back together. less than 10 minutes. all done

Slid the dryer away from the wall and removed the screws from the top back panel. I then removed the screws that held the top section in place. Two more screws held the two full length metal together. After removing these the push to start switch is easy to remove. Disconnect the two electrical wires. With a screw driver lift the tab on the switch and twist the part 45 degrees and remove. Re-assemble in the reverse order.

First tried repairing the old idler by cleaning and lubricating the shaft. That lasted for about a week but the squealing returned. Ordered the part and had it in a few days. Replaced the idler wheel and it's been quietly running like new for several weeks now. Now wife thinks I'm Superman.

Undo 2 screws take units out, clean a little, install new parts and screw down, done, great site !!!!!

Pried the top up, disconnected the door switch, removed two top screws holding the front panel, disconnected the spring and removed the front panel. Removed the screws and retainer holding the coils, replaced both coils and reversed the process. This was the third component I replaced to solve the problem....a cheap multi-meter and some testing would have solved the problem sooner. We now have the whole heat cycle.

Removed the broken actuator and replaced with the new one. The time to replace the dryer door switch actuator took about 5 minutes.By the way, I purchased the dryer in 1965 and it works as if it was brand new. Thank you Kenmore for a lifetime dryer.

Removed the front cover of the dryer as well as the lint holder and framework to gain access to the thermal fuse which is behind it and mounted on the discharge side of lint fan. replaced fuse but the dryer still wouldn't heat each time the ignitor glowed. Also then replaced the solenoid (both of them) and this fixd the problem as it has been good for a week now. The solenoid issue is not easy to conclusively identify as an issue as it is inconsistent in operation.