11070842991 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

After checking the PartsSelect website, I found that the most likely cause for my no heat problem was the Thermal Fuse and the Cycling Thermostat. I ordered both since they are located next to each other on the dryer. I followed the instructions in the video, first removing the dryer back. Next I located and removed both parts. I also did a cleaning of the dryer compartment since the back was already removed. Installed the 2 parts according the the video and re-installed the dryer back. It is now running like new. Great website, excellent video instructions saving me $600 to replace a perfectly good working appliance.

I diagnosed the problem using the web page. It said that 60% of the people with my problem bought the Thermal Fuse. I unplugged the dryer AND cut the power at the fuse box. I used a screwdriver to remove the vent hose, a nutdriver to remove the back of the machine. The thermal fuse was right there. Removed the old one with a screwdriver, unplugged the wires from the old one and snapped on new one, and screwed it back in. Re-installed the back of the dryer and the vent hose and Whoila! It works like a champ.

I watched the video and did the repair myself. My husband, who works in maintenance, was IMPRESSED! Yay! Thank You!!!! Love you guys! I am forwarding your website to my children!

Repair was very easy simply used a screwdriver to remove the cracked old latch and used my fingers to insert my new latch.

At first I thought the sensor in the drum part was bad. It had some residue from something on it and looked a bit beat up. Replaced it for 30$ and had the same problem. Note: I decided to take the console panel off because I though it was necessary to get to everywhere else and I found a folded up "repairman trouble shooting guide" in the console. Don't know if this is a common place to put it but it had all the wiring and problems detailed with this dryer. It had step-by-step assessment procedures for any problem. However, I punched the sequence for the "brains" to give me a problem code and it indicated that I needed a new "user interface," a 285$ part. I must have punched it wrong because I started to read other problem descriptions and I realized, based on others, that the most likely cause was the coils that regulate the gas/heat valve. I used the "problem guide" to measure the resistance of the coils (it gives you the proper range for each) and one was outside of what it should have been so I purchased a new set of coils for $20 plus shipping. It took me 2 tries at installing the coils because the cover plate that seats the coils in place was not aligned properly the first time. This cause them to vibrate and rattle when starting up. The coils were a little different in height so I readjusted the cover bracket and seated the coils properly. No rattle and the dryer worked perfectly.

Need a short handled phillips screwdriver. Unplug dryer from socket. Remove two screws near the bottom of the front panel. Swing the panel to one side so electrical wire doesn't need disconnection. Remove two screws holding bracket over the two coils. Unplug both coils. Plug in new coils. Replace bracket. Replace front panel. Plug machine back into electrical socket. Problem solved.

I followed the repair instruction video from the web site and the repair went just like the video. Before I viewed the video, I didn't even imagine I could make this repair myself. The replacement switch was exactly the same as the original from the factory. Everything went well and it was a pleasant experience. Our dryer is working just fine now.

I replaced both the thermal fuse and the gas valve coils, although I'm sure the problem was the coils.

Checked the access peep hole when dryer was running to check for gas valve turning on, heard the click and igniter turned on, but no fire. Ordered new gas valve and replaced. Of course this is the most expensive part, but cheaper then new dryer. If your not used to dis-assembling a dryer, this will take you a lot longer.

The door switch was not clicking on & off & I thought that was the problem. Went on line to find out how to get the switch out. I then removed the switch got the part # & ordered the new switch. The switch was sent by Fed Ex & delivered the day after I ordered it, I installed it the same day & the dryer is now operating.

Turned off power and pulled power plug from the wall. Removed the two screws at the lint screen. Raised the top to by depressing the top spring clips. Removed the two 5/16" screws from front top. Removed wiring clips from front panel. Set the front aside while I removed the two broken panel clips. Installed the two new panel clips. reinstalled the front panel by placing the front panel above the sides. Opened the front panel door and supported the drum while allowing the front panel to slide down onto the new front panel clips. Reinstalled the wiring clip. reinstalled the two 5/16 screws. Turned the drum to ensure that the felt seals and drive belt weere installed properly. Lowered the top and reinstalled the two screws at lint screen. Reinstalled power plug and turned on power. No rattles or squeeks!!!

Removed front and back covers on dryer, screws on top and down one side to spread cabinet to remove drum,removed blower cover to get access to shaft nut on that side. The other is accessible. I found that both shafts can bethe longer of the two that were sent. The shorter shaft is too short and needed to be modified to let the roller come outward to lay in the grove in the drum. I will get a longer shaft and replace it.

Thermal Fuse & Cycling Thermostat put it in like 321 was done.

Replaced igniter

I got great advice and the know how form other's instructions. It was a really easy fix. I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas valve. Open up the dryer by taking out the two screws securing the lint screen. Then pop off the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver. Disconnect the door switch and depending on model remove the two screws or bolts that keep the front panel attached. Careful, on my dryer once took the front panel off the drum fell forward. I kept it in place by wedging a small cardboard box under it. Unplug the two wires going into each of the coils. Remember which one goes where(2 prong vs 3 prong). Undue the two screws holding the bracket to the coils and remove bracket and bad coils. Put the new coils in, attach wires and bracket. Put dryer back together. Make sure to remember to plug back in door switch. I forgot and when I tried to test it wouldn't work and it got me worried that I broke it or something.