1107012511 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Read this site and saw many fixed the problem with a new thermostat. Ordered one and it was simple to replace. Just removed the back panel of the dryer and the thermostat is right there. Two screws to remove it, swap the four wiring plugs onto the new one, reinstall it. Unfortunately that didn't fix it so went back online and ordered the coil kit, another common solution. Removed front of dryer by removing the two screws the hold the lint trap onto the top and the two hinge plate screws on back of dryer to tilt the top up ward and backward. Removed two mounting screws on inside of dryer front and slip front panel upward to remove. The coils are right in the front down at the bottom left of dryer.Used an offset screwdriver to remove the two screws holding them in place. They slide right out, one has two prongs, one has three. Replace them with the new coils and put them back in place. Reassembled and everything works now. Grand total of eight screws removed and replaced, pretty simple. I'd recommend buying two or three parts if you see several parts as possibilities for a repair. Easier than doing it the dummy way like I did!

I started by changing the part that had the highest percentage to solve this problem , the top three didn't work , the fourth part, the disposable thermostat, and the last one that could be done from the front worked.

The repair video provided for this model 110.97584810 gave erroneous info. It says to remove the back vent cover. The back on this model is not removable. I wasted an hour trying to remove back and top of dryer before discovering that the bottom front panel below the door pops off. Then the cover of the blower must be removed by removing two screws. The thermostat part can then be accessed and replaced as shown in the video. You'll need a 1/4" rachet to remove the screws as there isn't space to use a nut driver. Note that the statement in the video "This repair is done all from the back" is completely wrong. It is done entirely from the front. It can be done without even moving the dryer.

I inserted the sharp kniife point, pryed back a flap , thus releasing the nylon locking hook, in the slot. then did the other side...I removed the white plastic handle, leaving the metal frame, which lay more flat in the filter channel. I put a box of screws on top of the dryer flap to keep it snug.. this is a Kenmore about 15 years old.
Grahare

still no heat.

followed the instructions on this site. to find the problem. checked the coil, thermostats and fuse with my multimeter. Found the bad one, order the part and put it in. It was very simple and now my 20 year old dryer works again.

Replaced thermostat on back of dryer, very easy to do, took about 15 minutes after watching video . doe's not require rocket scientist to do.

Removed the back panel of the dryer. Thermostat is located in the out going air flow near the exhaust. Removed one screw that held thermostat. Exchanged wires and put everything back together

I thought it had to be the igniter so I replaced that part. The dryer still did not start. I replaced the high limit and hoorah dryer works. Two weeks go by, the dryer is drying the clothes but my wife smells gas in the laundry room. I replaced the coil pak on the gas valve. My wife says she still smells gas. I replaced the radiant flame sensor and no gas smell for 2 weeks now.

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

uplug dryer take off back panel replace thermostat. easy , but did not fix the problem call local appliance store Lew Whites ( got them on speed dial) Pat sold me a new dryer. used the money I was saving to replace bad pitman arm on my truck. wife likes new dryer.

Replaced 2 thermostats, flame sensor, gas vale and solenoids. After each part was replaced, I started the dryer to see if the replaced part solved the problem. It did not, or so it seemed. Now, and this is important evidently: all the time I ran the tests post part replacement, the dryer was without the tumbler or any front end ducting in place. Out of frustration and a tickle of intuition, I reassembled the dryer, ran the test, and intuition proved itself as the dryer is working properly. My conclusion: You cannot run an accurate test result without the tumbler and ducting in place. I don't know why, but this seems to be necessary. new gas valve gave the dryer a much healthier flame.

Took apart front of cabinet, set aside. Undid the belt drive. Removed the drum. Noticed rear seal was with large gap where it wore away, causing the lint to leak onto the interior of cabinet. Ordered a new seal, removed old seal, prepped for new seal. Used spring clamp to hold new one on place. Applied the glue to hold seal in place waited 24 hrs to dry. Reinstalled drum, put cabinet back together. Plugged in ran whisper guiet.

Had to completely dismantle the dryer including the motor and grind off the.bolt holding the fan blade on. I did not realize it was threaded on with a left hand thread.Then reassembled.