11069727800 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I removed the discharge duct from the back of the dryer. Then, I removed the screws on the back of the dryer and the back itself. This exposed the cycling thermostat. I removed the screw holding the thermostat. I took the wires off the defective thermostat and reinstalled them on the new thermostat. Then, I reassembled in reverse order.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Measured resistance on thermostats & heating element. Found thermostat open so ordered replacement part and heat again.

The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.

Removed the back of the dryer. Used a multimeter set to read Ohms to check each Thermal cut-off switch. Each one read with continuity and some resistance. The one that was bad read open. So i replaced this one and the other one that came in the kit since i already paid for both.Then i replaced the back ran the dryer and it worked great.

The old catch on my dryer door was gone and I was keeping the door closed using tape. I ordered the part and it arrived with no hassles in about 5 days. The repair was too easy. I just popped the new catch in place. It took all of about 30 seconds to complete using no tools. I wish all home repairs were this easy.

I first went to your site and studied the parts diagram to see where the element was located. I then unplugged the dryer and pulled from the wall. After that I popped open the front cover and accessed the bottom of the dryer where the element was located. I then removed two screws that held the element in place and removed the wires to the element. After a little tug the old element came out. I slid the new one in place and connected the wiring and screws and replaced the cover and pluged it in. Works good as new...

I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.

somthing fell down in the blower motor compartment and busted up the bloewr motor fan,and was making noise and out of balance.i changed the blower motor and runs like a charme

Following the very helpful instructions that I found at PartSelect.com I was able to open the dryer and access the heating element which I suspected was bad. I realized later that I didn't need to open up as much as I did but the job was easy. In the future I would only open the panel below the door to access the element.

Just to make sure that it wasn't a problem with a thermostat or thermal fuse I also checked continuity from the temperature selector knob on the control panel to the heating element. When I verified continuity (zero resistance) I knew that the element was bad. Once I removed it I could see that one of the coils was broken and I should have just checked that first and not bothered opening up the control panel at the top.

Still it was less than an hour of work total. I have some experience with DIY projects but have not worked on appliances before. Thanks for the great site with good instructions and lower costs than the local parts counter.

Followed your online video for disassembly and it was not only educational but actually quite simple. I would recommend that you start the video with," make sure the power cord is disconnected from the power source". I have worked on numerous pieces of large electrical equipment and would strongly suggest this be added. Some people think if it's, "off", it's safe. Your phone staff when ordering was great. We will do business again.

It was easier to remove the blower manifold cover, (3 screws) to get at the heater element. Remove the heat shield, disconnect the two wires from the element. There is another screw on the side holding the element in the housing. Remove it and slide the element torward you. I used pliers as it was a snug fit. Replace. Good time to vacuum the whole area.

First, I opened up the front of the dryer and then unscrewed the entire back piece. I assembled the new exhaust piece from the kit. Next, I took out the old straight rear exhaust and then replaced it with the elbow shaped left eshaust from the kit. Lastly, reattache the back and front pieces of the dryer.

Everything seems to work on the electric/gas dryer, but would not generate any heat. Did some research and ordered the thermal fuse & thermostat based on that. Replacement was simple and went well, however it did not fix the issue. Should have checked the continuity first as I found the "replaced parts" to be good. Have checked all other possible symptoms except the heating element, which requires addition labor. Overall, partselect portion was as advertised. All parts arrived quickly and were priced fair.

Took the back off the dryer control panel, unscrewed the old timer, unplugged the wire leads from the old timer and put them on the new timer. Then I screwed the new timer in place of the old one and replaced the back panel cover. one nut driver did the whole repair. about ten minutes tops.