1106857703 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

re-placed screen

I just followed your video how to replace a broken belt , after viewing replacing belt went easy

Very difficult for one person, trying to get the belt engaged into the motor pulley and the idler pulley at the same time. Trying to overcome the tension of the heavy spring on the idler was the main problem, while coping with the small working space with the drum in place. Solved all the problems by removing the drum (for the 3rd time) and making a piece of wood to wedge in against the outside wall of the machine to hold back the spring loaded idler. Then slipped the drum back in place and gently slid the belt around the drum. Then reached in under the drum and slipped the wood piece out while making sure the belt remained on the pulleys. If I had the wood idea at the start, it would have been about a half hour job. Good luck, and don't pinch your fingers.

I follow the instructions from the video you guys show the only issue is putting back the tensioner in place but my brother leaves next door and help me.

It went well, I followed the instruction video and referred back to it if any questions or difficulty. The instructor on the video was obviously very experienced and duplicating his actions exactly was very helpful, One thing I noticed that wasn't mentioned was that the thread on the wheel / motor is left handed.

I watched a U Tube video about banging sound from dryer. Once I recognized the problem, lifted the top, removed 2 screws holding the front, removed the drum, and bingo. Saw the worn out drum roller. Ordered the replacement parts from "PartSelect" on line (Great Company). Was in no hurry, so I chose regular mail delivery. 4 days later, got the correct replacement parts, put the dryer back together, and now, the dryer is quieter then when I bought it new, a thousand years ago. I will never again be afraid to tackle an appliance issue. THANK YOU !!!

Had to replace the rear felt seal and the motor. It was no problem to find videos on how to do both of these repairs. Took apart the appliance. When the parts came first replaced the drum rear felt seal and waited for the motor to be delivered. Then replaced the motor as per online instructions. Also went to Home Depot to buy a new flexible dryer tube since the old one had a few holes. It works perfectly again.

Disconnect dryer.
Unscrew the two screws that hold the door actuator assemby.
replace broken spring.
Screw the the two screws back.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

pulled out the old one and put in the new one. I wish all repairs were this easy. I also had to reattach the vent hose, which is annoying because I'm the only one who fits behing the dryer without disconnecting the gas. I never touch the gas related parts.

I appreciate how easy your website made it, to get the parts, I would recomend this site and will be back myself.

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

Removed lint filter and 2 screws on either side of lint filter housing. Pried front part of top panel up on both sides and flipped backwards out of the way. Disconnected wire to door-open switch. Supported top panel with a standup dolly/handtruck so that it didn't put stress on the back mounting clips at the back of the top panel. Removed 2 screws securing the top of the front panel to the two side panels. Lifted the front panel up to release it from the clips at the bottom of the two side panels. Set front panel aside. Laid (layed?) dryer on it's back. Lifted out drum, removed old belt. Removed screw holding base of strut to bottom of dryer frame (left support roller when facing front of dryer). Pried off push-on washer/clip securing strut to roller shaft. Pried off triangle washers holding rollers on shafts. Vacuumed loads of lint out of the inside of the dryer. Reassembled in reverse order. A little tricky getting the belt back on the drum, through the pulley/tension wheel and around the motor spindle/spool thingey. With the machine still laying on it's back I wound up using masking tape to hold the belt onto the middle of the drum while threaded the rest of it into place to the motor.
Problem was due one of the support rollers having a flat side instead of being round.

removed the top of the dryer exposing the drum and belt.Also the bottom acess door was removed.The rollers were easy to get to from the bottom and from the back.Had to remove ducting from the rear of the dryer to expose the upper most roller shaft nut.Loosened the nuts from the back making the wheels come from the bottom.Also had to loosen the support bracket holding the weight up on the bottom roller assy.Replaced the belt by rapping it around the drum before installing the roller wheels.This project was easy except trying to hold the upper shaft in place while putting the nut back on the shaft.This would be much easier with a second person.Thanks for making this a nice experience and easy fix !