1106818220 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Undid the back, remove wires going to element, unscrew lint trap, pop the top and undid the nut-screw holding the element housing. pulled out the bad element and did everything in reverse with the new element... unplug it first though because I left that step out.

Opened new package took item out and put it on the slot where the old filter was. Easy as pie. My dryer is 46 years old and works just fine.

First unplug appliance, Remove dryer top and front. remove drum and belt. Two clamps hold motor in place. remove them and lint chute housing in rear, exposing the fan. Use vice grips to hold motor shaft behind belt pulley flat spot. Remove fan, it's reverse threads. A large adjustable wrench on plastic fan nut and spray lubricant if very tight. Place new motor next to old and switch wires over, crimp on new 1/8'' connectors. Remember the green ground wire may need an allen wrench. Put back drum,belt, lube the rollers and replace back cover, front, top.

It went well, I followed the instruction video and referred back to it if any questions or difficulty. The instructor on the video was obviously very experienced and duplicating his actions exactly was very helpful, One thing I noticed that wasn't mentioned was that the thread on the wheel / motor is left handed.

I watched a U Tube video about banging sound from dryer. Once I recognized the problem, lifted the top, removed 2 screws holding the front, removed the drum, and bingo. Saw the worn out drum roller. Ordered the replacement parts from "PartSelect" on line (Great Company). Was in no hurry, so I chose regular mail delivery. 4 days later, got the correct replacement parts, put the dryer back together, and now, the dryer is quieter then when I bought it new, a thousand years ago. I will never again be afraid to tackle an appliance issue. THANK YOU !!!

Had to replace the rear felt seal and the motor. It was no problem to find videos on how to do both of these repairs. Took apart the appliance. When the parts came first replaced the drum rear felt seal and waited for the motor to be delivered. Then replaced the motor as per online instructions. Also went to Home Depot to buy a new flexible dryer tube since the old one had a few holes. It works perfectly again.

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )

simple repair, pop the dryer lid, remove the screw for the front of the door. install cable and spring and then reassemble.

The only task that took some time was remembering to take out the screws for the lint port prior to lifting the lid.

I never received my part checked back after said hearing part had been shipped was told part was no longer available have called twice about my refund and not received that either

1 Vice grips are required to remove the fan/blower. Clamp on inside of dryer so you can remove the blower/fan assembly

Recommend 10" or larger 14" will definitely do the job

2. Blower/fan is reverse threaded when facing the back of the dryer. That is how I broke mine. Turn clockwise to loosen - feels very unnatural

3. If you have to replace the 5 & 6 electrical connectors, you have to have a barrel crimper for insulated terminals - IWISS SN-02C RATCHET TERMINAL CRIMPING PLIER TOOL, 24-14AWG is a good example

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

Disconnect dryer.
Unscrew the two screws that hold the door actuator assemby.
replace broken spring.
Screw the the two screws back.

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

pulled out the old one and put in the new one. I wish all repairs were this easy. I also had to reattach the vent hose, which is annoying because I'm the only one who fits behing the dryer without disconnecting the gas. I never touch the gas related parts.

I appreciate how easy your website made it, to get the parts, I would recomend this site and will be back myself.

Dryer was taking long time to dry cloths, electric bill seemed higer than usual, used 1/4" nutdriver, removed rear panel, opened top cover w/screw driver to pry with, marked all wires with blk tape to id them later. Did thorugh inspect/clean of link section to propeller baleds 1 hr, continuity check of heater, switches etc found heater lower than spec, ordered heater, continued to clean all sections & vents, installed new vent hose, pulled about 2lbs of sand, dust, lint from all sections, heater works great now, clothes dry quick. New heater core came in mail and installed it. The newer elecment was 5200 watts, orig was 5400 watts, ohms was same, size etc. The unit works like a charm. Notes:Did not check or lubricat the drum. Drum is very squeaky, belt in good shape. Dryer is 20yrs old. Will replace when I can afford it! for now I can live with some sqeaks, anyway as I am getting older my hearing is going away, Good luck.