After identfying that the problem was due to a damaged drum support roller, I decided to replace the bad roller instead of replacing the dyer itself.
The first thing was to remove the front cover and the front panels to expose the drum. (Only a few screws hold them in place.) Next, the drum was removed by first releasing the belt from the motor pulley and tensioner, and then pulling the drum straight out.
At this point the two rollers would be exposed. The triangular plastic retaining locks were removed by slightly prying them off. The old rollers were then removed and replaced.
Before putting everything back, this was a good time to vacuum all the accumulated lint inside, especially the lint that had accumulated around the motor assembly and the fire box.
(A pleasant surprise: I found a lot of coins inside the unit, enough to recoup half of what I spent for the new rollers.)
I removed the two screws on the top by the lint catcher. Then, per information from this website, I pried up the top. I reached down into the dryer and removed the two screws on the broken door switch and replaced it with the new part. I am a recently widowed, 55 year old and was thrilled to find good advice, information and instructions on your website!! Simple as could be!
The only thing I had to do was hammer the catch inside the square fitting and presto it was done. It took me less than 3 mins. I thought I might of needed instructions, but it was really simple. Even a guy can do it. (smile)
Removed the drum then removed the old parts and installed the new ones. Dryer now runs very quite and heats good. You have very fast service my mother ordered the parts on the net one day and I received the parts next day and did the repair that night and dried clothes. Thanks,
I replaced the male end first hoping that a change in the female part would not be needed. Unfortunately no. I used needle nosed pliers to pry the male part out and pushed the new part in. The female part of the door catch was more difficult. I didn't do it in "textbook" form, but got the job done with pliers and a screwdriver. Worth every penny to fix correctly instead of rigging it. Do it!
I took out the 2 screws that are located on the top of dryer under the lint filter door. Popped up the whole top of dryer. Opened the dryer door to unscrew the 2 door switch screws. Took off the old broken door switch through the open dryer top and before replacing the new door switch completely I tested it by turning the dryer on and pressing the new switch against the button activator 2 find out if it works. When it did, I carefully put the door switch back so the dryer door can activate it properly and screwed in the 2 screws. Finally, I put the dryer top back down & fastened the last 2 screws under the lint filter door.
After removing front door panel (2 screws) I removed the old latch catch and replace with the new part. 4 minutes later, the door was back together, the dryer was running and the door was staying closed.
Buzzing sound while start button pushed. then shut off after 30 seconds.
Removed 2 screws holding the lint trap on top, popped up the top and lifted back, removed 2 screws on the inside top of front panel, lifted front off and set aside then reached under the drum and pulled tension pully to loosen the belt, and removed the drum. popped the motor clams off and then used 2 adjustable wrenches to grasp the nuts at the front and back to remove blower fan. When you look for the area in back to loosen the blower fan you may notice the nut that you are looking for is actually part of the fan and is plastic looking rather than metal. I did have to take off the back cover to the blower fan to tighten it back up.I had seen instructions that the blower fan would have a 3/8 hole in the back of it to loosen it,but mine did not. I assembled it and it works great with my new motor and rollers. I received my part in 2 days, very happy