1106807811 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Initially confused by instructions provided in that it stated to loosen a brass coupler. Disconnected power. Removed front bottom panel. Disconnected both leads to ingiter. Removed the 2 screws holding igniter bracket in place. Carefully slid igniter and bracket forward and removed from dryer. Removed screw holding ingiter and replaced with new. Reinstalled in reverse.

Removed top and front of dryer. Removed drum. Removed old rollers from spindles. Installed new rollers and new retainer triangles. Replaced drum. Re-installed front and top.

I made it very difficult. I didn't research the repair. My back is old. It's easier if you just You Tube a video. The top roller you have to take drum completely out. The bottom one, The one that failed for me, you can actually do it without taking anything apart. Access it at bottom back, two holes. I do not have small hands, it would have been easier. Channel Locks inside, 9/16th socket outside. That will loosen main axle. Then use short screwdriver or socket driver on small bracket connected to bottom of unit. Mine had one screw holding it in. Easy bottom fix. I don't really recommend replacing top till it needs it. You can only buy them by the pair too. You will be ready when time comes. I found top roller didn't actually need replacing, did it cause I had it all apart. Don't fix if not broke, right? Trust, BUT, Verify. Smaller hands, would have helped me. All I got.

I followed the instructions on the Part Select website for drum support rollers and shaft. The videos were great! (There wasn't one for the right side shaft but I could extrapolate from the other instructions.) The hardest part for me was releasing the dryer top - the video made it look so easy but it took me a long time to get the little clips to release with the putty knife. Also, tightening the new right side shaft required the help of another person as my arms are not long enough to hold the shaft with pliers while I tightened the nut in the back of the dryer (and I did have to remove the back cover for this shaft). I would recommend to anyone even a little bit handy to attempt a repair following part select's videos.

When I received the gasket I cleaned the old adhesive from the door and applied an advanced silicone gasket to the depression for the gasket on the door and pressed the new gasket in place and closed the door and gave it two days to cure before using the dryer. The first load ran for a while and the there was a loud clank but the dryer kept going. Upon investigating the drum was no longer turning. Oops. It seems that when the old gasket failed it got tangle with the fabrics which yanked the rest of the gasket from the door, causing excessive stress on the drum drive belt and it broke, necessitating a new belt be installed. (That replacement went well also, see my next entry if it is requested.)

I followed the video directions exactly as instructed and I had no problem doing the repair myself. And if I can do it being a woman with no help you can do it. Easy peasy~

Removed back panel and tested all components. Everything was good so had to remove front to test last 2 components. Removed front and used brick (handy tool when your working solo) to hold drum up and in place (with full load of damp towels). Defective igniter. Testing all took 10 minutes, replacement took 2. Spent more time opening and putting machine back together than testing and replacement took.

I followed the basic steps in the video for the dryer door switch replacement. My dryer is much older but everything in the video was basically the same. It was a very easy repair. I have kept this dryer running for 26 of the 27 years of our marriage.

Opened top, removed front panel, snapped in new ring bearing, reinstalled front panel and top.

Verified that the heater element was working; drum and contents were getting hot. Could hear the thermostat clicking on/off as the element started to glow. Drum stayed very steamy the entire time; consistent with no airflow. Fan motor was running, dryer vent/line were clear. Verified cold (not hot) air from the external vent. Seals had degraded to the point that the fan was not drawing air from the drum, but from inside the dryer cabinet at the lower seal (by the fan blades); hot air was escaping from the upper seal and was causing the dryer cabinet to get unusually hot. Installed these 2 seals, and the dryer is working perfectly now.

pull out lint screen, removed 2 screws. lifted top up. removed 2 screws from the front,disconnected wiring harness. removed the drum and belt. located and removed the igniter, sensor, and coil valves. replaced all with new parts. reassembled. now it heats up. i believe that i only needed the coil valves. coil valves not shown on parts list, i purchased later. everything was very accessible with the drum removed.

Ordered thermal fuse and cycling thermostat

Instructions are available from other web sites. A few tips from me. Tape the dryer doors shut. When you remove the springs it falls open. Remember to just loosen the hex screws at the bottom of the front panel, it has slots and just lifts off of them. To easily remove the clips holding the motor bearings use a dull chisel or small pry bar on the outside half loop and tap the end with a hammer while lightly forcing it out.

I'm a 66 year old lady with no repair experience at all!! I found the part I needed on Parts Select, which I ordered and received in less than 4 days. I watched the video that you've posted on your website which shows in great detail how to do this repair. It looked like a simple fix and it was!! I highly reccomend Parts Select!! Took my granddaughter(held flashlight) and myself less than 30 minutes to do the repair!!!

Since the power and gas to the dryer were both already turned off all I had to was open the top of the dryer, remove the front panel, look underneath the drying drum and remove the belt tensioner from the belt and slide the drying drum out. While things were open I took my vacuum and vacuumed all the lint, dirt and loose articles from over time out of the dryer interior. I located the igniter, used a nut driver to remove one screw pulled the igniter from its housing and disconnected the wiring harness. For installation I reversed the process and I was done. I reinstalled the drying drum, reattached the belt tensioner, put the front panel back in place and closed the dryer top. Attached the dryer vent hose, plugged the dryer to the electrical outlet, turned on the gas and walla it purred like a kitten. It even seem to dry faster than before.