11066964500 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Multimeter to check start switch, then thermal fuse. Removed back panel and replaced parts. Very easy for anyone to do.

Disconnected electrical output, closed gas valve and line. Removed back of dryer and removed wires to thermostat and replaced with new thermostat. Did not solve problems.

Disconnected electrical outlet, closed gas valve and removed line. Removed back of dryer and disconnected wires to fuse. Did not solve problem.

After diagnosing, easy removal and install.

Traced down where power stopped, put jumper in place of the thermal fuse anew found this was the problem. Ordered the part from part select

very simple. actually did a little more then was necessary. once we removed the back of the dryer, used our vacuum to vacuum up all the lint that was back there. Watched the video on how to repair the part when we ordered it and it was easy as can be.. we have used this web site to repair our oven, fridge and now the dryer. Everything went according to plan. I reccomend this site as much as i can and it has saved us a lot of money. Thank you!

When I initially inspected the dryer when it stopped working, I noticed a ball of lint had collected on the backside of the thermal fuse. I figured that had allowed the temperature to exceed the fuse's max temp. To relace, I simply removed the dryer's rear panel, disconnected the thermal fuse and replaced it. Once all back together, the dryer powered on with no problem.

I took off the back panel, removed the 2 screws each for the thermostat and cutoff sensor, removed the 2 wires that went to each, screwed in the new parts, reattached the wires, and bingo, the dryer produced heat again. This was my third and final shot at trying to fix this problem as I had already replaced the thermal fuse (was not the issue), and replaced the actual heating coil (apparently wasn't the problem either). However, the dryer is now working better than ever with the new heating coil, drying in about half the time it took before, so I'm glad that was done.

I first examined the electrical diagram that came on the inside of the rear panel to determine where to check for loss voltage since this problem had all the tale,tale signs of a device not receiving power to turn on so I began at one end of the circuit and using my Fluke meter on the AC scale along with the electrical diagram found the thermal fuse opened.At that time I went to your site to see if I could buy this part and found you had it plus more so even though the thermo switch tested good I felt the need to replace it along with the thermo fuse as a set. I'm an electronic tech for a different type of machines but this was still just an electrical problem like the machines I work on daily.

Checked the element and switches. Found thermal cut off switch open. Order new switch. Installed switch and vacuumed cabinet. Start and test.

Per the electrical diagram that was in the dryer , using a VOLT OHMETER I found the thermal fuse was open. Then ordered the part , arrived the NEXT DAY via Standard Shipping. Easy to replace .

After I got the top of the dryer open, I simply unscrewed and unplugged the old switch. Replaced it with new switch. Dryer started right up.

This dryer refuses to die and I am happy to keep it that way. Door latch was replaced in less than a minute using this kit. Easiest repair ever.

I replace the terminal block, wires , and dryer plug I unscrewed the back of the dryer and basically replace was burnt out. I was about to pay 200.00 to have it done but I looked on youtube and seen how easy it was so I just chose the site to order what I needed to be replace and it arrived quickly and more affordable to do it myself. Thanks I hope the was useful.

Slipped screwdriver on top and bottom of catch and pullef out. Pressed new catch in plact. Job finished.