11062066100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Snapped latch into existing hole in 2 seconds. The pin that goes into latch was still intact. That's it ,real simple. The only problem I will hopefully not have in the future is the the mico-switch which is just hanging in there, the switch works but the lever that extends out from the face, that works with the door is partially broken off and the switch is no longer available on your parts list. The appliance is twenty-one years old. I am very happy with your service and I received the parts the next day, after I ordered them and I will be buying more parts in the months to come. This time it will be for my Kenmore gas stove and then a Kenmore refrigerator door hinge.

I am a retired applaince repairman not recommended for amature to repair this model.

I knew I needed a thermostat. So that part of the repair was my contribution.

As described by the video, I removed the front cover after I unpluged the electric plug. Pulled all the wires from the cutoff-TML. Removed the cover of the heating element(one screw). Removed the heating element housing(2 screws). Removed the cutoff-TML from the heating element housing(2 parts, 4 screws). Replaced the cutoff-TML(3screws). Returning the heating element housing to its place was somewhat difficult, it took few tries.Then reattached the wires on the new cutoff-TML.Returned the cover of the heating element. I pluged the electrical plug. Turned the dryer on high for 3 minuts and watched the heating element getting hot. At last I returend the front cover.

after using a meter to determine the thermal cut-off was bad and ordering the part, it only too about ten to fifteen minutes to repair. used a nut driver to remove the bag cover to expose the thermal cut-off. removed the wires and the screws from the parts. screwed the new parts on. replaced the wires. turned the dryer on to make sure it worked (heat came out). replaced the cover. set back in place and it works great

diognostic suggested thermal fuse or thermistor. Thermistor tested low resistance (<2K olms). Replaced thermistor and dryer heat returned.

I didn't have to remove the entire door...I just removed the screws with the door open, used a needle nose plier to remove the plastic insert..stuck the new one in. Then I replaced the metal portion by popping it out and inserting the new one. Easy

When I got the door catch, I held it in a pair of pliers and pushed it right into place. The door would still pop open. After awhile, I realized that the door was bent, probably by a small child climbing up on it. I had to loosen some of the screws that held the door on in order to relieve the tension in the door so that it would stay closed. As long as it continues to work, I won't worry about replacing the door. It's in a rental house anyway.

I got my kit and when I opened it the exact parts were there!! I am a older woman and was a little worried that I could do it. I took the pliers and pulled the old latch catch out and 1-2-3 walah!! It was so unbelievably easy. If I can do it anyone can. Thank you for saving me hundreds of $s on a new dryer.

I removed the front cover. I inspected the heater coil (tested for continuity with a muti-meter). It was good. Checked the thermostat and thermal cut-off and found the cut off bad. Ordered the parts from Parts Select at half the price of the local sources and two days later they were on my doorstep. Problem solved.

removed bottom panel & removed old element.

I just remove two screws slip the old off and slip the new one on replace the two screws back put top of dry back in place replace two screws from dry lint trap

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.

Followed instuctions on video accept our appliance was the Duet HT model so we had a glass window to deal with. Just a few more screws to keep track of but otherwise a very easy repair.