11062036100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Removed the broken actuator and replaced with the new one. The time to replace the dryer door switch actuator took about 5 minutes.By the way, I purchased the dryer in 1965 and it works as if it was brand new. Thank you Kenmore for a lifetime dryer.

Removed the front cover of the dryer as well as the lint holder and framework to gain access to the thermal fuse which is behind it and mounted on the discharge side of lint fan. replaced fuse but the dryer still wouldn't heat each time the ignitor glowed. Also then replaced the solenoid (both of them) and this fixd the problem as it has been good for a week now. The solenoid issue is not easy to conclusively identify as an issue as it is inconsistent in operation.

Replaced Lint Screen

two screws on filter housing and then lift dryer to up like the hood of a car the two screws on actuator, be careful not to drop actuator, if you do use a magnet to retrieve, two screws back in then wire clip top of dryer down and two screws back into filter housing and your ready to dry clothes, not recommended but if you have to dry clothes while waiting for part a clamp on the switch will allow you to use dryer, but be extremely careful because dryer will not turn off when door is opened

Took screwdriver popped out old latch in cabnet. Took pliers popped out latch out of door. Snaped new latch parts back in.

got my kit from partselect and in no time i was drying cloths.

Removed the back panel and checked each of four thermal connections. The thermostat at the top of the heating element tested bad. I replaced both the top and bottom thermostats. Tested OK. Checked the vent pipe all the way to outside and tested clear. Inside of dryer was clear. Discovered that a visitor did not remember to clean the lint screen before/after each load. We set the dryer now to no more than 30 minutes at a time and ONLY on Medium Heat and it works fine. There is no need ever to use High Heat Setting. I was glad to find Whirlpool-authorized parts. I will never use generics again.

After trying to follow a very detailed description by another consumer, we googled our washer and found a site that showed step by step direction that took us through removing all panels and getting to the bellow easily. Not removing the proper panels, we found was making the job hard!I believe the site was applicance services...very helpful! Step by step literally!!Cost of parts through parts select reasonable.

This did not require a "repair", just a replacement. I want to say that the response time and ease of ordering were very good. I would not hesitate to use PartSelect again when needed. Thank you!

pulled out old lint filter. Put in new lint filter.

Repair was very easy simply used a screwdriver to remove the cracked old latch and used my fingers to insert my new latch.

I did continuity tests on the on/off push switch and the thermostats - all were good. After some research I discovered the thermal switch which is somewhat hidden on top of the blower. Sure enough, it failed the continuity test. The two sheet metal screws are difficult to loosen from the access door at the bottom of the dryer. You can test the fuse from that location but it's more difficult to replace it without taking the entire dryer apart, which is what I ultimately did. Once the drum is out the fuse is very accessible. However, if you need to make this repair, try replacing the fuse from the lower panel (and avoid the time/effort in removing the drum). You might be able to use a 1/4" open-end wrench (or pliers) to loosen the sheet metal screws. I only had a standard ratchet set which is too big to fit into that tight space. Either way, it's not a complicated repair...watch the installation video - it's not exact but it's close enough to guide you through this.

The dryer was spinning, but the display said "sensing" for the whole cycle, and there was no heat. We took off the front of the dryer and the fuse was below the drum. This was an easy swap out, but it didn't fix the dryer. Then we ordered a thermistor, which also was an easy swap out but didn't fix the dryer. Last, we bought an ohm meter and tested the heating element, and discovered it did not have continuity. I had already ordered the heating element, as that was the next item to check on the list. The element was much harder to replace, because you have to take off the drum.

My dryer, a Whirlpool GEQ9800PW1, suddenly stopped producing heat. I did not have a multimeter so I rolled the dice on changing the fuse since that's a common problem. Well, it wasn't my problem. I borrowed a multimeter and learned how to use it from YouTube videos. I tested the thermostat, the heating element, another thermostat. They weren't the problem. I finally tested the thermal cutoff and it was dead. I ordered the part from Part Select, it arrived within 3 days, and is working perfectly. As for the installation process, all of the parts mentioned above are accessed from the front of the dryer, below the dryer door. There are two clips at the TOP of the panel below the dryer door. Use a screwdriver to pop them loose and remove the panel. There are also clips at the bottom of the panel. No need to mess with those. I wasted a lot of time doing that because I didn't realize the relevant clips were at the top of the panel. Once the panel is removed, you need to remove the metal piece that covers the lint trap and blower. It is held in place by three screws and pulls right off. On the right side of the dryer, you will see a hollow, metal tube with the heating element in it. The heating element can be identified easily because it's made up of coils. On the left side of this metal tube containing the heating element, you will see wires that attach to two separate items. The one in the front is the high limit thermostat. Behind that is the thermal cutoff. Only one screw holds the thermal cutoff in place. Remove the screw, detach the two wires attached to it, and simply replace with a new one. The entire metal tube can be removed from the dryer but I personally didn't find it necessary. I was fine with reaching into the dryer to remove/replace the thermal cutoff. The replacement part comes with both the thermal cutoff and a high limit thermostat. I didn't bother replacing the thermostat. This is a fast, easy job when reading the above instructions. My process was trial and error so it took me forever. Hopefully these instructions help others. I considered an aftermarket part but after some research, it's worth the $30 to get a factory part from this site.

remove back,remove both switches,replace