11061084000 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

This did not require a "repair", just a replacement. I want to say that the response time and ease of ordering were very good. I would not hesitate to use PartSelect again when needed. Thank you!

pulled out old lint filter. Put in new lint filter.

Repair was very easy simply used a screwdriver to remove the cracked old latch and used my fingers to insert my new latch.

I did continuity tests on the on/off push switch and the thermostats - all were good. After some research I discovered the thermal switch which is somewhat hidden on top of the blower. Sure enough, it failed the continuity test. The two sheet metal screws are difficult to loosen from the access door at the bottom of the dryer. You can test the fuse from that location but it's more difficult to replace it without taking the entire dryer apart, which is what I ultimately did. Once the drum is out the fuse is very accessible. However, if you need to make this repair, try replacing the fuse from the lower panel (and avoid the time/effort in removing the drum). You might be able to use a 1/4" open-end wrench (or pliers) to loosen the sheet metal screws. I only had a standard ratchet set which is too big to fit into that tight space. Either way, it's not a complicated repair...watch the installation video - it's not exact but it's close enough to guide you through this.

The dryer was spinning, but the display said "sensing" for the whole cycle, and there was no heat. We took off the front of the dryer and the fuse was below the drum. This was an easy swap out, but it didn't fix the dryer. Then we ordered a thermistor, which also was an easy swap out but didn't fix the dryer. Last, we bought an ohm meter and tested the heating element, and discovered it did not have continuity. I had already ordered the heating element, as that was the next item to check on the list. The element was much harder to replace, because you have to take off the drum.

Popped the panel open & replaced the one that was missing with a new one!

1) Unplug dryer from wall. 2) Remove bottom panel on front of dryer below door. There are 2 screws. You will need a 1/4" nut driver. 3) Remove 2 screws (same size) holding the clip in place at the front of the element housing. Then remove clip. 4) Pull housing and element forward. Will take some twisting and angling to get it out. 5) Make a diagram showing which wires go to what terminals. Then pull wires from terminals. (Now would be a good time to remove lint and trash or in my case that bank card I lost last year from bottom of dryer.) 6) Remove screw holding coil inside housing and pull coil from housing. Use pliers and some muscle. 7) Install new coil and replace wires, housing, and panel doing this process in reverse. For internal bias thermistor, while front panel is off, find the part inside. It is toward the center near the front of the dryer. There are 2 wires and 2 screws 1/4" hex heads. Remove wires, remove screws, and replace.

1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.

Disconnected the power and duct from the dryer. Removed the back and top of the dryer by removing the 1/4" screws. Created slack in the belt by compressing the spring and moving the idler arm.Slid the belt off the pulley. Removed the tri-ring clip, slid the old pulley and gasket off. Cleaned and inspected the shaft and vacuumed the inside of the dryer. replaced the gasket, pulley and tri-ring clip. Replaced the top and back of the dryer. Connected duct and power.

The repair was easy and very simple. With nut driver removed front cover. Noted the wiring set up and removed. Lifted heat tunnel up and pulled it from the case. Removed the old heating element and install new one. Reinstalled the heat tunnel reconnected the wires. Slide tunnel back into position. Replaced screw and you are done. I always pray and ask Jesus for his help and things always go well.

Unplugged unit. Took off the lower kick plate took the old element out and put the new one in. Works great.

I was afraid I had to go in from the back panel, undo a million little bolts, after pulling the whole thing out far enough to get behind the dryer. Not so! I watched the installation video. I cannot get to the 220 plug easily so I turned of the switch at the breaker box. I opened the small panel on the front of the dryer under the dryer door. Loosened one bolt on a cover guard to expose the element. Unplugged the connection to the element and easily pulled out old part. Slipped in the new part, reconnected the little plug connections, closed cover panel.! Voila! Done! My Husband was amazed that I was done & we were ready to go again & my grand kids cheered for me!! 15 minutes or less instead of hours.

Searched Internet for Dryer Model and problem, purchased the three items listed used in the heater element - long as I was replacing parts I was going to do them all...Unplug Dryer, Removed Back and Front Access panels using power driver with nut socket adapter... Lots of Dust Build Up in lower section of dryer, cleaned by hand, then vacuumed and the blew out with air from small compressor. Removed heater assembly and replaced All Three Electrical components, (Heater coil, High Limit, Thermal Fuse) Reinstalled heater unit and then closed up unit back panel and front panel. Plugged in, ran dryer front panel diagnostics - no errors reported, test dryer - dryer vent tube is now warm to the touch - the dryer working again.... (Suspected Bad Item: Thermal Fuse) Total repair time once parts in hand was about two hours, most time was spent cleaning out lint and dust to insure no fire hazard present

Step 1: remove new latch from bag in which part comes. Step 2: push latch into hole where the other latch was. Step 3: enjoy having a dryer you dont have to hold closed with a folding chair.

Removed the top panel of the dryer via a couple of screws from the rear. Remove the rear panel swing it open light a door to the right, minding the electrical connections. Removed the belt from the pulley, removed the Tri-ring from the shaft and slid the pulley off of the shaft. The shaft was slightly rusted so I used a steel brush and brake cleaner to clean it up, placed the new gasket, pulley, and tri-ring on, replaced the belt, and put the panels back into place. As the dryer is about 7 years old, also removed the front lower panel and cleaned out unit which had quite a bit of accumulated dust and glitter especially in the vent lines. (3 girls live here). Pretty easy, most screws remove with just the one tool.