11060172000 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Seriously, there's no need to explain how to do it because the video shown on how to change the thermal fuse is as precise and accurate as it can get. You should have no problem switching out the thermal fuse as long as you have watched the video!

The repair was simple, and easy. And would be for any of the parts related to the issue of "no heat" or "not enough heat", however I had never used a multimeter before, and the learning curve was not simple. I ended up ordering a total of four parts, three of which weren't needed in order to perform this repair. Replacing the defective part was very easy. I wish I had been able to find better instructions on the internet or the Partselect website on how to use a mulitmeter to diagnose which part was broken. This would have saved me a couple of days waiting for the correct parts and hours of internet searching for clear instructions. It turned out that the main issue was that some of the parts needed to be checked for continuity and some for resistance. Not knowing which meant a lot of trial and error before I was able to figure out which part was broken. In fact, I really was only able to figure it out AFTER i had the new parts and was able to test the new ones next to the ones in the dryer and see which didn't read the same on the multimeter.

Upon receiving the parts from Parts Select I reviewed the contents of the package and then compared with what i had ordered. I then reviewed the video to locate the part and to ensure correct dis-assembly and installation. I had no problem with the new installation once I sorted out the wiring. Th PS video for this model describes and shows three red or orange wires coming for the harness two standard and on e thin wire which goes to the thermal cut-off. In my dryer this orange or red wire was actually bland white striped. I called PS who suggested I call Whirlpool who also could not help and insisted that this model had an orange wire where I was describing it as black, the concern was was that with this new thermal cut-off wires had to be cut and fitted with new ends to accommodate a change in design. I therefore did a little temporary wiring t before I cut any wires to ensure my assessment was correct. I was then able to cut the black and white wire fit it with a new end and plug it into the double connector that was now fitted to the jumper cable. I the connected the double connector to the thermal cut-off and tested the dryer for heat. I re-fitted the back panel and re-positioned the dryer to present everything is working satisfactorily. I would comment that someone needs to check why my dryer had a black and whit cable coming from the harness when both Whirlpool and the PS video show it as orange/red.

replaced fuse great website

We got this dryer from my F-I-L after they had to enter an elderly home. My F-I-L was a modern Tim-Tool-Man-Tyler. He had removed most of the protections and installed a 392 Thermal cut off, I guess he wanted to dry his cloths in 30 seconds or less. I was not aware of this, and used the dryer. Yes you guessed it, we sat it for a 30 minute cycle and it blew the cut-off and melted the wiring. I am a degree/certified computer tech so I fixed it myself, but I hate 220 electricity. Need less to say I checked with this site for the OEM parts and they pointed me in the correct direction. I did have to remake some of the wires since they were crisp, but it all went well and it was easy enough. The lesson, companies install OEM parts for a GOOD reason, best always to follow the makers directions.

unhinged top panel. removed front panel. installed belt and reinstalled front and top panel.

I watched the video. Thermostat wasn't the problem tho. It was the timer.

The parts above did not fix the problem. We also bought 2 gas valve coils and igniter after installing them the dryer works perfectly

went online to whirlpool typed in my problem and. was directed me to Partselect which said it was thermal fuse and had picture where it was located and how to replace,easy as that.thank you PartSelect.Tim

First I watched Partselect's wonderful videos on what could cause the dryer from having to use multiple cycles to dry and the parts involved. I then took the back of the dryer off and tested all three parts with a multi-meter to determine which part had no resistance. The thermal fuse did not register any thing, so I ordered the part and a few days later put it in. The dryer dries in just one cycle saving on the cost of repair and electric bill. Partselect.com is my first go to sight for any repair. They make it so simple and comprehensive that any one can do the repair. I then used duct tape to make a secure connection to the duct pipe in order for it to properly vent to the outside.

Previously I had repaired two washing machines and now a dryer, which is why my mom nick named me Josephine. So ladies you can make the repairs as well.

should have bought and used a voltmeter first. replaced heating element and fuse and other thermostat before I got a voltmeter and realized it was the cycling thermostat that was bad. easy after that

Remove the exhaust tubing connection and the back panel (five nut screws). Locate the fuse; it is just to the right of the lint trap shoot, midway between the top and bottom of the back panel area. Replacement is visually intuitive.

Went to YouTube It was real easy.

I ordered the part, watched the video and made the repair in less than thirty minutes. This was much cheaper than purchasing a new dryer.

Pull off the front panel of the dryer, and replaced the thermal fuse. Very easy. Plus, vacuumed out the whole inside of the dryer, the rear and the tube running from the dryer to the outside. Will be doing this at least every 3 months to be safe. You would be surprised at how much lint builds up inside the machine. Eve though we clean the filter trap after every use of a load of clothes.