11026884502 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

After removing the body housing for the washer to find the problem, I left the housing off until my drain hose arrived (in 2 business days). Remember to keep your spring hose rings from the old drain hose. Within 10 minutes, I had the new drain hose attached and clipped in to the rear of the machine. Within 30 minutes, my wife was washing a load of clothes. **Reminder: This is a good time to thoroughly clean the areas of your washer that you normally do not get to. Also remember that your first load of clothes washed after the repairs and cleaning should be dark (i.e. jeans or work clothes) should their be any residual dirt in your drum after cleaning.

The motor would hum but would not agitate or spin. Followed the PartSelect instructions on removing the cover. From other instructions I found out the start capacitor was bad. Very easy repair. Also replaced the clutch because the spin cycle would not begin without spinning it manually. FYI PartSelect had the lowest priced parts and were delivered next day with free shipping.

Watch the video on the part ordering webpage.

The hardest part was understanding how to take the cabinet apart. The "exploded" parts diagrams at PartSelect helped immensely.

I just followed the steps on the video, I was surprised how fast I got the parts within 24 Hrs . Thanks

Remove the cover of the washer, pull out motor, pry out motor coupler, replace. May have to hammer with a rubber mallet to get it on. Replace motor and washer cover. We also replace the water pump. It wasn't broken, but since we had the washer torn apart, decided to replace it as well. There are lots of YouTube videos to help you out.

The top of the agitator pops out and leaves the fastener(a 17mm bolt) open at the bottom of a 6 inch or so opening in the top piece. That bolt comes out with a socket extension and the top comes off. Replacing the dogs is just a case of sliding a retainer ring down, removing the broken dog pieces and replacing with new dogs. Reverse the disassembly process to reassemble the unit. Now, it works great.

followed the video on the web site and repair was amazingly easy. I have two of these machines, and this same part went bad about 1 1/2 year ago, so this time i was ready for everything. Took everything apart, got rid of old broken part, replaced with new, and Bam, washer back up and running, less than 30 minutes, I am limited on space in my basement, so i didn't turn machine on its back, i did it in the upright position, just utilized some wood blocks to hold the motor during part change, and a hand spring clamp to hold pump and hoses out of my way after removing the clips that hold it on. It's not rocket science, if i can do it so can you. Good luck

First, unplug the unit. Remove the two screws on each side of the control panel on the back. They are located at the top corners of the unit. The base is held on by clips you press in on from the bottom. You will have to reach in over the tub and press in on clips, one each on the far side. At the left, you will be able to feel the lid switch, the clip is just to the left of the switch. It is about ½ inch wide, press firmly with your thumb. You may want to wear glove for this unless you like battle scars. Once done the control panel should hinge up. The switch is on the left side. To remove the switch, I first detached the wire harness to the control panel and unscrewed the grounding wire. Open the lid and the switch pulls right out. The new switch drops right in. Attach the wire harness and grounding wire. Place the control panel back side first at an angle making sure the back metal panel is lined up, once in place it should snap back in place when pressed down firmly. You might have to reach in over the tub again and pull the clip down (keep Band-Aids on hand). Plug the unit back in and you are good to go. Raise and close the lid, you should here the switch click on and off.

Removed softener dispenser from agitator. Removed 1/2" bolt from inside agitator and removed top half of agitator. Removed cog assembly. Used screw driver to pry slip ring up 1/4 " to access directional cogs. Replaced cogs, pushed slip ring back into place. Reassembled agitator in reverse order of disassembly.

First I tipped the washer forward and placed a plastic milk crate under the rear of the washer to support it . Then tipping the washer back. I placed two car jack stands near the front to support and level the machine. Now I had enough room to look under it to see where it was leaking. Right away I could see a drip coming from the pump in the front of the washer. I removed the two water hoses. Then with a screwdriver popped a clip on the top of the pump and one on the bottom. The pump slid easily off . Slide the new pump on and reverse the process

Followed written instructions after viewing repair video. Would have been helpful to know how far onto shaft each drive piece needed to be placed. I should have noted old piece placement, though if this was noted in instructions it would have been reassuring to know what is the proper placement. I also placed machine on its back to align the motor and transmission after new parts were installed on each.

I researched the troubleshooting on PartSelect.com and determined the clutch was going out on my direct drive Whirlpool washer. I ordered the part, found the instructional video that actually had my exact washer being worked on, I followed all of the steps of replacing the clutch and in a snap, my washer was spinning. I've worked in apartment maintenance for years and PartsSelect.com has always been my only resource for appliance parts and repairs. The prices are great (I've compared most parts websites and 8 times out of 10, partsselect.com is cheapest), the shipping is extremely fast and the parts are alway right. Great site!!!!

The repair was easy and the video tutorial was great. That was the easy part. I also had to replace the drain pan and getting it in and out of the pan is no easy task. Plus when you have not moved the washer in 10 years there is some cleaning to do. I would not hesitate to do it myself again. It cost me $20 and some sweat equity.

I watched the video to get a good idea of the procedure. I followed the instructions to remove the cabinet but kept the washer upright on its base. I left the water feed hoses attached to the wall spigots, but turned them off. The pump was rusted onto the motor shaft so I left it there. I unhooked the pump hoses from the pump so I could remove the pump and motor as a unit. The plastic coupling ends pulled off the motor and gearbox shafts easily. The new coupling ends have metal inserts which are a tight fit on the gearbox and motor shafts. To maintain the original alignment it's important to drive them fully into place. I greased the shafts then tapped the coupling ends on with a hammer and drift. The drift was a metal tube, inside diameter slightly larger than the shafts, but small enough to bear on the metal inserts, not on the plastic. My diagnosis was wrong - the original coupling was in good condition, but the clutch had failed.