11026862502 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

followed the video on the web site and repair was amazingly easy. I have two of these machines, and this same part went bad about 1 1/2 year ago, so this time i was ready for everything. Took everything apart, got rid of old broken part, replaced with new, and Bam, washer back up and running, less than 30 minutes, I am limited on space in my basement, so i didn't turn machine on its back, i did it in the upright position, just utilized some wood blocks to hold the motor during part change, and a hand spring clamp to hold pump and hoses out of my way after removing the clips that hold it on. It's not rocket science, if i can do it so can you. Good luck

First, unplug the unit. Remove the two screws on each side of the control panel on the back. They are located at the top corners of the unit. The base is held on by clips you press in on from the bottom. You will have to reach in over the tub and press in on clips, one each on the far side. At the left, you will be able to feel the lid switch, the clip is just to the left of the switch. It is about ½ inch wide, press firmly with your thumb. You may want to wear glove for this unless you like battle scars. Once done the control panel should hinge up. The switch is on the left side. To remove the switch, I first detached the wire harness to the control panel and unscrewed the grounding wire. Open the lid and the switch pulls right out. The new switch drops right in. Attach the wire harness and grounding wire. Place the control panel back side first at an angle making sure the back metal panel is lined up, once in place it should snap back in place when pressed down firmly. You might have to reach in over the tub again and pull the clip down (keep Band-Aids on hand). Plug the unit back in and you are good to go. Raise and close the lid, you should here the switch click on and off.

Removed softener dispenser from agitator. Removed 1/2" bolt from inside agitator and removed top half of agitator. Removed cog assembly. Used screw driver to pry slip ring up 1/4 " to access directional cogs. Replaced cogs, pushed slip ring back into place. Reassembled agitator in reverse order of disassembly.

First I tipped the washer forward and placed a plastic milk crate under the rear of the washer to support it . Then tipping the washer back. I placed two car jack stands near the front to support and level the machine. Now I had enough room to look under it to see where it was leaking. Right away I could see a drip coming from the pump in the front of the washer. I removed the two water hoses. Then with a screwdriver popped a clip on the top of the pump and one on the bottom. The pump slid easily off . Slide the new pump on and reverse the process

Followed written instructions after viewing repair video. Would have been helpful to know how far onto shaft each drive piece needed to be placed. I should have noted old piece placement, though if this was noted in instructions it would have been reassuring to know what is the proper placement. I also placed machine on its back to align the motor and transmission after new parts were installed on each.

I researched the troubleshooting on PartSelect.com and determined the clutch was going out on my direct drive Whirlpool washer. I ordered the part, found the instructional video that actually had my exact washer being worked on, I followed all of the steps of replacing the clutch and in a snap, my washer was spinning. I've worked in apartment maintenance for years and PartsSelect.com has always been my only resource for appliance parts and repairs. The prices are great (I've compared most parts websites and 8 times out of 10, partsselect.com is cheapest), the shipping is extremely fast and the parts are alway right. Great site!!!!

The repair was easy and the video tutorial was great. That was the easy part. I also had to replace the drain pan and getting it in and out of the pan is no easy task. Plus when you have not moved the washer in 10 years there is some cleaning to do. I would not hesitate to do it myself again. It cost me $20 and some sweat equity.

I watched the video to get a good idea of the procedure. I followed the instructions to remove the cabinet but kept the washer upright on its base. I left the water feed hoses attached to the wall spigots, but turned them off. The pump was rusted onto the motor shaft so I left it there. I unhooked the pump hoses from the pump so I could remove the pump and motor as a unit. The plastic coupling ends pulled off the motor and gearbox shafts easily. The new coupling ends have metal inserts which are a tight fit on the gearbox and motor shafts. To maintain the original alignment it's important to drive them fully into place. I greased the shafts then tapped the coupling ends on with a hammer and drift. The drift was a metal tube, inside diameter slightly larger than the shafts, but small enough to bear on the metal inserts, not on the plastic. My diagnosis was wrong - the original coupling was in good condition, but the clutch had failed.

Unplugged washer, took out screws that held on the dial panel, lifted dial panel, disconnected the ground wire, released the clip, lifted the lid which released the switch. Installed new switch closed the lid which holds it in place set the clip connected ground wire reattached dial panel secured it with the screws, plugged the washer back in and I was on my way the conquer that pile of laundry that had built up.

Easy, If your drive block has an open top, it's worn. Look at a picture of a new drive block and compare. If it doesn't match, then you need a new drive block. Note: Also check the drive clutch and clutch liners or pads...they may be worn. In my case it was the drive block this time. So to start, take off the fabric softenner dispenser in the center of the washer. Then pull out the seal. then remove the bolt. and pull off the agitator assembly. after that tap off the lock nut with a punch and hammer or if you have the special spanner wrench tool, use that. Once removed, pull out the inner tub and then pull the drive block off the shaft. Put the new drive block on and reverse the procedure from there. Tap the lock nut tight with the punch and hammer while re-installing. I'm so glad I did this repair. $15 is so much better than just giving in and buying a new washer!!!

First, I moved the washer with water in it from the wall. Then, I removed two screws with a phillip head screwdriver from the back cover to the controls. Then I used a little bitty wrench to remove two small bolts that also held the back cover of the controls to the rest of the washer. The control panel was all attached, so it had to lay forward on the washer to remove the broken lid switch and then to install the new lid switch. There was one screw that I removed with a phillip head screwdriver. I removed the broken part and placed the new part into the hole. Then I had to move the control panel with limited space to lift the lid of the washer; the part would not fit property without lifting the lid. Once it fit into place, I closed the lid and replaced the screws and bolts. It worked beautifully. Thank you for your online help and the remarks from other people who had previously fix this lid switch.

Fairly simple just had to take off agitator top. Unscrew a plastic bolt using a 1/2 socket extension. Pull that part or which had a spring under it take out agitator hold which your old ones probably have broken off from take them replace with new ones and put every thing back reverse order. .

It's pretty easy all I had the news just pop off the, frabric softner container, but the small plastic cap could not be pulled out by hand or neddle nose plyers. I used a hex key to hook under the plastic loops and gripped the other end with vice gripps. After the plastic cap came off I used a socket wrench to remove the one bolt and this only came out very easy. Then remove the small cylinder and had a directional COGS and it was easy to replace and reassemble

Remove two screws at the back of the control panel and slide forward to release the hooks, unplug the door switch then swing it over the top toward the back. Remove two fasteners at the top holding the case in place with a screwdriver. Slide case toward front of machine and remove to expose the pump. Remove two clips and two hoses from pump. Installation is the reverse of these steps.

Leaned the washer back to get at the bottom, removed the water holes, removed the water pump, removed the motor, replaced the direct drive motor coupling. Put it back together and it's all good. No clutch or drive problems. Simple fix.