11025862400 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Watch the video on the part ordering webpage.

I just followed the steps on the video, I was surprised how fast I got the parts within 24 Hrs . Thanks

Remove the cover of the washer, pull out motor, pry out motor coupler, replace. May have to hammer with a rubber mallet to get it on. Replace motor and washer cover. We also replace the water pump. It wasn't broken, but since we had the washer torn apart, decided to replace it as well. There are lots of YouTube videos to help you out.

The top of the agitator pops out and leaves the fastener(a 17mm bolt) open at the bottom of a 6 inch or so opening in the top piece. That bolt comes out with a socket extension and the top comes off. Replacing the dogs is just a case of sliding a retainer ring down, removing the broken dog pieces and replacing with new dogs. Reverse the disassembly process to reassemble the unit. Now, it works great.

Watch video, follow instructions. Very easy.

followed the video on the web site and repair was amazingly easy. I have two of these machines, and this same part went bad about 1 1/2 year ago, so this time i was ready for everything. Took everything apart, got rid of old broken part, replaced with new, and Bam, washer back up and running, less than 30 minutes, I am limited on space in my basement, so i didn't turn machine on its back, i did it in the upright position, just utilized some wood blocks to hold the motor during part change, and a hand spring clamp to hold pump and hoses out of my way after removing the clips that hold it on. It's not rocket science, if i can do it so can you. Good luck

Removed softener dispenser from agitator. Removed 1/2" bolt from inside agitator and removed top half of agitator. Removed cog assembly. Used screw driver to pry slip ring up 1/4 " to access directional cogs. Replaced cogs, pushed slip ring back into place. Reassembled agitator in reverse order of disassembly.

First I tipped the washer forward and placed a plastic milk crate under the rear of the washer to support it . Then tipping the washer back. I placed two car jack stands near the front to support and level the machine. Now I had enough room to look under it to see where it was leaking. Right away I could see a drip coming from the pump in the front of the washer. I removed the two water hoses. Then with a screwdriver popped a clip on the top of the pump and one on the bottom. The pump slid easily off . Slide the new pump on and reverse the process

Followed written instructions after viewing repair video. Would have been helpful to know how far onto shaft each drive piece needed to be placed. I should have noted old piece placement, though if this was noted in instructions it would have been reassuring to know what is the proper placement. I also placed machine on its back to align the motor and transmission after new parts were installed on each.

I researched the troubleshooting on PartSelect.com and determined the clutch was going out on my direct drive Whirlpool washer. I ordered the part, found the instructional video that actually had my exact washer being worked on, I followed all of the steps of replacing the clutch and in a snap, my washer was spinning. I've worked in apartment maintenance for years and PartsSelect.com has always been my only resource for appliance parts and repairs. The prices are great (I've compared most parts websites and 8 times out of 10, partsselect.com is cheapest), the shipping is extremely fast and the parts are alway right. Great site!!!!

The repair was easy and the video tutorial was great. That was the easy part. I also had to replace the drain pan and getting it in and out of the pan is no easy task. Plus when you have not moved the washer in 10 years there is some cleaning to do. I would not hesitate to do it myself again. It cost me $20 and some sweat equity.

I watched the video to get a good idea of the procedure. I followed the instructions to remove the cabinet but kept the washer upright on its base. I left the water feed hoses attached to the wall spigots, but turned them off. The pump was rusted onto the motor shaft so I left it there. I unhooked the pump hoses from the pump so I could remove the pump and motor as a unit. The plastic coupling ends pulled off the motor and gearbox shafts easily. The new coupling ends have metal inserts which are a tight fit on the gearbox and motor shafts. To maintain the original alignment it's important to drive them fully into place. I greased the shafts then tapped the coupling ends on with a hammer and drift. The drift was a metal tube, inside diameter slightly larger than the shafts, but small enough to bear on the metal inserts, not on the plastic. My diagnosis was wrong - the original coupling was in good condition, but the clutch had failed.

I dipped most of the water out of the machine because it was heavy, and needed to be moved out from wall. Always unplug the machine, and cut the water valves off. I pulled the two plastic end caps off the control panel, unscrewed the two philip screws from the ends of the control panel, flipped the control console up, and backwards. unscrewed the ground wire screw in the back. popped two"S" clamps holding the metal cabinet to the back panel. tilted the metal cabinet forward, lifted it from around the tub, unscrewed the two screws holding the switch, and ground wire. replaced the switch. oh, you must unplug the connector before tilting the metal cabinet. reverse the procedure. make sure you plug the connector up before you pull the control panel back into place. I cleaned, and vacumned the dust and dust inside the machine. so it took a little longer than usual. about an hour. Very easy job, but kind of cramped quarters for me. machine runs like new.

Easy, If your drive block has an open top, it's worn. Look at a picture of a new drive block and compare. If it doesn't match, then you need a new drive block. Note: Also check the drive clutch and clutch liners or pads...they may be worn. In my case it was the drive block this time. So to start, take off the fabric softenner dispenser in the center of the washer. Then pull out the seal. then remove the bolt. and pull off the agitator assembly. after that tap off the lock nut with a punch and hammer or if you have the special spanner wrench tool, use that. Once removed, pull out the inner tub and then pull the drive block off the shaft. Put the new drive block on and reverse the procedure from there. Tap the lock nut tight with the punch and hammer while re-installing. I'm so glad I did this repair. $15 is so much better than just giving in and buying a new washer!!!

Fairly simple just had to take off agitator top. Unscrew a plastic bolt using a 1/2 socket extension. Pull that part or which had a spring under it take out agitator hold which your old ones probably have broken off from take them replace with new ones and put every thing back reverse order. .