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Agitator moves freely in both directions
First I removed the softener bin by pulling it up and off, then I removed the plastic seal by pulling it up and out, then I removed the 1/2 inch bolt with a ratchet and extension, then I removed the upper and lower agitator assembly from the machine and seperated the two by putting my feet on the lower agitator to hold it to the floor and pulling the upper agitator fast and firmly. Sitting on top of the lower agitator I found the dog ear assembly. I pulled the dog ear assembly off and removed the yellow cap and existing dog ears. Assembly was reverse.
This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
I checked out the reviews and the recommendation of these "professionals", replaced the part easy enough when it came in. However, it didn't solve the problem. Got an actual professional to come in and see what the problem was, and they determined that gear oil was being leaked and it wasn't worth replacing.
Tried to get a refund and return the part. Was told absolutely not. The money back guarantee is a lie.
After removing the bolt (7/16" head), and using a pair of pliers to remove the 3-4 in deep "cup", it was immediately obvious how to assemble the new cup and pawls (ratchets).
Orienting the black "bearing" was not so obvious, but on closer inspection of the illustration, it became clear. The four "ears" of the bearing go closest to the pawls. The little tabs that are co-planar to the ears fit into the four grooves of the new cup.
And here's the trick (besides making REALLY, REALLY SURE how the pawls orient)--Soak the black bearing piece in hot water to soften it up, and let it slide over the cup better. If you don't, you risk breaking it. If you do, it slides over and "clicjs" into place, with the ears resting right against the bottom lip of the cup, capturing the pawls.
Installation back into the washer is obvious.
The thing works like a charm! It hasn't worked this well for a decade!
First, I wrestled off the top cap of the agitator. Then, I unscrewed the bolt and took out the cam. I noticed that the agitator dogs were worn smooth. I replaced them, put it all back together and VOILA! I bought the whole agitator kit, not knowing what I was going to find, because I wasn't a Magtag repair woman. It ended up that the cam that came in the kit was too big for my washer anyway. Luckily, all I needed was 4 plastic dogs. The price of the whole kit was so inexpensive anyway, it was no big deal. Especially because, I was looking to buy a new washer or a big repair bill. This website is great! Thank you.
Hot water valve would barely open - take 35 mins to fill washer
Pull the washer out from wall Unplug the Washer Close the supply line valves Unscrew the supply lines, use bucket to catch line water Remove 1 cover plate for elec lines (1 screw) Remove 2 screws on edge of back plate for control panel Slide long blade under front of control panel corners, pop the lock clips Lay control panel forward - controls down Compare new and old part - looks the same, wires, etc Remove center screw on back plate cover to remove it Unplug the elec wires connecting the valves and the control panel Remove 2 screws holding the water valve outlet swap out the old values for new valves Reverse the process - step backwards and reassemble Took me 36 minutes. Tested the washer for Hot fill and later cold - both work
Removed old drain pump and found a sock in the inlet - must have burned out pump because after removing it pump was still defective. Installed new pump in about 30 minutes and off to the races no more issues
With full load, clothes were not agitating correctly - very little action or movement of the upper agitator section.
Took off softener dispenser, pried off top of agitator, removed bolt from top of agitator.
Then pulled out the agitator assembly for easier access.
Used screwdriver to brake small plastic keepers holding secondary agitator ratchet clutch to the secondary agitator.
Assembled and inserted new ratchet mechanism in the top of the agitator, making sure 4 small square pegs protruding from the end of the new assembly fully entered into mating holes on the secondary agitator.
Placed the agitator back on the agitator post and installed and secured bolt. Replaced cap and installed softener dispenser.
I followed the instructions, however I did not have a spot to hold the bar temporarily, so I drilled a hole in the corner frame to hook them in at the front of the machine. All else was easy and according to the video.
I watched a video on you tube before making the repair, there was only one bad rod support, location right rear, I recommend watching a video on you tube first, it is very simple to change, however the replacement of the part was not the solution to the unbalanced load during the spin cycle, so I guess I have some research to do.