11020952990 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Followed instructions on WEB site, they were very easy.

watched the video piece of cake good job guys

So, the instructional video was great but be warned that you REALLY need to hammer the part into place. Basically hammer it into place so that the end of the shaft that it goes on is flush with the plastic piece of the coupler on both ends. Otherwise, you'll put the washer together and run a load and it'll squeal and smell like burning rubber. We had to take it apart like 3 times before we got it on there securely enough. We would then run an empty load and it would be fine but as soon as we would add clothes the squealing and burning would ensure. So, my advice is to hammer it in well and save yourself the time and struggle!

With no broke springs I thought that they might be weak so I ordered them but didn't install them as I found that the basket had a drag at one point of turning it, so I took it down to the clutch and found the nylon arm that released the brake had the small pins broken off. This would cause the brake to not release full enough that the eccentricity in it had a drag spot during the spin causing tremendous vibration. To disassemble I took the transmission off and the basket off and install new clutch assembly with the basket laying horizontal on a table. I did notice that the new clutch only had three pads on the band and the old one had six. I called you back with no satisfaction, but was given the phone # of the manufacturer and they confirmed that theirs had six pads but the part # checked out so I installed it. It now sits basically still during a cycle. I made and supervised the making of parts in a machine shop all my working carrier and I don't understand the weak link of the nylon pins milled / molded on a part that takes a lick from the actuator every cycle. It appears to me it was made to break, but it is about 20 years old. Thanks for your video help on the tube. Fred

changed parts easily, following the video. Problem was the BRAKE CAM DRIVER, the plastic piece that fits around the shaft near the drum. The old one was visibly torn up, the pegs worn off, the whole thing worn down. The problem with the repair was the video showed an "E ring" holding it on and my washer had no E ring, had nothing hold it. It just sat there. Installed it anyway, although I was worried it was too loose. Sure enough there was a problem. it spun initially then started that ugly clicking noise. turned off washer immediately, disassembled again, and prayed. I found a large flat washer to take up the slack between the clutch and the plastic brake cam driver, reassembled, tightening the nuts a fair bit tighter than before. both the nuts on the transmission and the nut on top the agitator. works perfect!

don't know, I ordered the part and my husband repaired it. Did not take him long at all.

Tipped the washer on its side and took the pump off then the motor then the coupling.

Pulled off the fabric softner holder, pulled out the cover for the agitator. Used a socket set to loosen the screw that holds in the agitator hub, pulled out the hub, removed the gasket from the cogs and replaced new cogs. Works like new!!!!

I purchased the part from PartSelect because it was very reasonable and it was OEM part. I have never replaced this kind of part on a washer so I figured it would take me a while. But PartSelect supplied a video showing the entire repair and that was the only reason I did not struggle with the repair. I will definitely buy any appliance parts I need in the future from PartSelect. Thanks Don

The most helpful hint was the video that I followed to a tee an if not I'd be treading in deep water. Very good but being a rookie it took me a hour an a half to complete, but it was my first voyage, of which should take 30 min if skilled a little bit. End results it works better than it has ever but always remember to keep track of all parts to replace it back in the right position. Thanks Again an I'll be back to see you if necessary for future reference!!!

I disconnected the washer from the water hoses and unplugged it. I laid it down on its back and the pump was right there on the bottom front. There were no clips holding the pump. With a pair of Channel Locks I disconnected the two hoses from the pump. I had to pry it off using a screwdriver. The pump shaft was rusty from the water leak so I wire brushed off. I put the new clips I ordered in place and pushed the new pump on. I then snapped the back clip on first because it was easier with a little tilt of the pump. I had to use my screwdriver to put the outside clip on. I reconnected the hoses put the wash back upright hooked up the water hoses and plugged it back in. I turned on and no leaks and is working good.

Disconnected power. Disconnected hot and cold, and drain hoses and placed in a plastic bucket. Pulled cover off the washer. Tilted washer onto its back. Removed 2 clips holding the pump. Disconnected wire harness from motor and removed 2 clips holding motor starting with lower clip. Removed a screw from the upper clip used for shipping. Set motor aside and removed broken pieces of the motor coupler from motor and transmission. The replacement part had a metal sleeve in the center of each white plastic ring. The old part did not. This required tapping the new ring onto both the motor and transmission shafts with a socket and makes for a tight fit. Reversed the process to put everything back together. Some alignment might be necessary to place motor to transmission. I recomment wearing thin work gloves to avoid nicks from sharp edges. I didn't. Washer is spinning again and sounds a lot better.

Partselect's video on how to replace the waterpump was great, but I was a bit stymied at the beginning as the control panel on my Whirlpool was attached differently than shown in the video. Mine was held on with two Phillips head screws in the back corners of the control panel. Also I'd suggest replacing the tub to pump hose (Part PS334685) at the same time-I wish I did. That hose was coated with crud which I cleaned out the best I could. All in all a pretty easy job-hardest part was getting cabinet back on (put the front bottom under the frame, then lower the cabinet onto the frame.

After removing the body housing for the washer to find the problem, I left the housing off until my drain hose arrived (in 2 business days). Remember to keep your spring hose rings from the old drain hose. Within 10 minutes, I had the new drain hose attached and clipped in to the rear of the machine. Within 30 minutes, my wife was washing a load of clothes. **Reminder: This is a good time to thoroughly clean the areas of your washer that you normally do not get to. Also remember that your first load of clothes washed after the repairs and cleaning should be dark (i.e. jeans or work clothes) should their be any residual dirt in your drum after cleaning.

just like video except to keep cogs in place I inverted upper agitator with all parts and bolt inserted held in place with socket and extension.