After unplugging and removing the back cover from the dryer, locate the push button switch. Slide putty knife around outer cover to unhook catch. Replace with new push button switch. My dryer is still not working, but this was a simple replacement.
Drum was binding because of worn bearing supporting front of dryer drum
First I unplugged the dryer for safety, then I removed the top of the dryer, then removed the 2 hex head screws holding the font door panel onto the dryer. Then I disconnected the door safety switch. the rest was cake. I removed the old bearing and cut the new bearing and seal to the exact size of the old one. I used contact cement to glue the new bearing and seal into place. Reassembly was a breeze. End of job. Success!!!
The movers broke both water intakes off flush with the back of the machine
took off two screws that held the top part on took the screws that held the back on 4 screws removed the one screw that held the replacement valve put the black mounting plate on the machine replaced screws very simple.
Remove the nut from the top of the motor shift inside of wsher. then remove the wire harness plug. Take out three bolts side the shaft and motor out. Replace clutch and install in reverse order.
Unscrewed the two screws that hold the water lines to the valve. Unscrewed and lifted the control panel, popped the two spring clips that hold the back panel against the housing. Pulled the valve just outside the back panel. Took off the internal water line and moved it over to the new valve. Took off both hot and bold electric plugs and moved them to the new valve. With the old valve off, I sled the new valve into place and screwed it to the back panel. Put the spring tabs back on the back panel and screwed the back panel back together. Plugged it in, attached the water supply lines and tested it. Worked fine.
my cold water did not run in the machine and it would not rinse
we looked at the video first then my husband fit the proble boy! was i excited! all the stores tried to get me to buy a new one. thanks partselets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The reason it took as long as it did was because the job is not in line as the work I normally do. It would be a fairly easy job for an experienced repairman. (Taking the back off the washer was time consuming for me) The rest of the job was easy as the part was a perfect fit. I remember having a problem blending hot/cold water for some time. Most recently, while washing a load the water did not want to shut off. I can't remember how I diagnosed the water not shuting off as a problem along with the water temp control, but it is now repaired. With the new valve installed, water temp select is now OK and the water now shuts off as normal.
First unplug dryer, then remove 4 screws along the back of the top and remove top and set aside. Next pull outward on the front until the front clears the drum and lift off the front and set to the side, careful not to stretch the wires to the door switch. Remove old belt and slip belt around the drum and line up with marks from old belt. Reach in under the drum under the motor and lift up the tensioner. Insert belt through tensioner and slip over the front of the shaft on the motor and release the tensioner. The belt should now be tight. Reinstall the front and top, plug in and test.
After taking the entire washer apart one time, we learned that we could take the top and front of the machine off only to repair it. I found Part-select online and with the model number locating the part was easy. It arrived within 3 days and with instructions I could easily replace the old part with a few tools. I spent dollars instead of hundreds for a new machine.
Removed capscrew in end of agitator shaft took cover off machine-[ unscrewed two screws holding down control panel, hinged back, pryed retaining clips out, rocked back machine cover.] Removed motor mounting clips and pump hoses, swinging motor and pump out of the way. Removed 3 capscrews holding transmission, pulled transmission towards me removing agitator shaft, disassembled clutch assembly - removing one cirlip then another, installed new clucth parts in same order
my dryer door didn't latch for over a year. We were accustom to proping large objects against it. a friend told me to look on line. The close up pictures and parts diagrams were awesome. It was here in 4 days . Now my family thinks I am a hero. The end
Wash machine, wouldn't spin dry the close. The pump still worked to drain the water.
Unplug power from wall. Disconnected water lines Tip Unit on it's side. (Recommend turning so motor is to the top side) Disconnect Electrical connector and Hoses from the pump and motor. Disconnect metal straps used to retain the motor to the transmission. (screwdriver to pry) Remove old coupling pieces from transmission/motor(used a long screw driver, rock back and forth) used air compressor to clean up electric motor replace new coupling on motor and transmisison (may need hammer to tap into place) set rubber bushing on transmission side (transmission shaft should be facing up at this point) replace electric motor into place, making sure to line up bushing and motor mounts. replace metal strap connectors between transmission / motor (this can be tricky, as the one in the back is hard to get at.) replace electrical connectors and hoses connect washing machine power and water and test
This is a relatively new washer and failed early. My previous whirlpool washer lasted 20 years without any repairs. 1. First inquired about the spin problem in partselect. Machine will not sping unless manualy forced then it will take off but weak. 2. Partselect suggested a clutch problem. Ordered the part that came fast. When I tried removing the shaft hub with a hammer and chisel it will not get loose so I opted ordering the special wrench to loosen the tub hub. 3. I put the machine on its back and loosened the pump retaining clips. Do not remove the hoses from the pump. Move the pump away from the motor shaft. Remove the motor electrical connector and set aside. 4. Remove the three bolts holding the gearbox-motor assemply and pull it out of the tub. 5. Put the assembly on a towelwith shaft up and remove the separator washer from the old clutch that is sitting on the gearbox. Then remove the c-retaining clip from the shaft. 6. Pry out the wire retaining clip from the clutch and pull the old clutch out of the shaft. 7. The clutch kit I ordered came with a plastic brake to clutch cam so I replaced it too, just remove the retainig clip from the brake that is at the bottom of the tub and replaced the part. 8. Installed the new clutch and the retaining clips in reverse order. Replace all parts that came with the kit. The new clutch spring was already in place. 9. Put the assembly back into the tub and re-install all the other items in the same order. It spins good now! 10. While replacing parts, methodically clean all the lint from the motor and from under the machine. The gearbox showed signs of leaking oil so its a question of cost. I left it there until it fails then I'll buy a new machine.