11018202790 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Followed direction that was sent to my e-mail. My washer timer would not advance. I' am so happy for the directions sent to me from this site and being able to get the part that I, needed from this site. I, didn't have and business doing the job myself, because I'm a ill 66 year old female. There's no special instructions that I, have to add. !! Thanks !! Lewis

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Woulkd have taken alot less time had I not taken off the control board, back...etc. Laying the unit on its back is perfect. Took it out into the garage when I could have done it in the laundry rooom with very little water loss.
1. Removed all hoses connected to top of motor. This was not very easy since the spring clamps had been in the same place for 20+ years. Also removed all wire harness connected to and from the motor.
2. Removed metal clamps from top of motor unit, and removed the plastic "valve".
3. Removed screws holding in clamps on each side of the motor used to hold motor on motor plate. Removed motor. Trick is to make sure that the back clamp stays in place...makes it a little easier when you go to re install.
4. Cleaned out around agitator shaft, and fitted one side of the coupling and the neoprene type joiner on to the agitator shaft.
5. Fitted other side of coupling on to motor...This is where it got a little tough......and then placed motor unit on the motor plate, making sure to line up teeth to neoprene joiner.
6. Replaced clamps on each side of the motor and screwed in nuts holding them in place.
7. Replaced plastic "valve" and the clamps that hold it in placed...back one is a little tough.
8. Reattached hoses to "valve" and hooked all wire harness back into place.
9.Tested perfect...little burning smell on first spin....but works great now!!

Disconnect power & water then drain hoses.
We flipped the washer on it's side to gain access to the bottom. There was no need to take off the back panel. Keep a 5 gallon bucket and a few rags handy for the extra water in the pump line.
Disconnected the wiring harness. Removed the brackets holding the motor. It's a little tight on the back bracket. It has a 1/4" hex nut on the back side, so I used a 1/4" drive socket (see: small). Removed the bolts holding the gear case (this makes it a lot easier). Disconnected the pump hose and rotated the motor & gear box and pulled forward. This gives you access to the coupling. Remove the broken part. Clean the area for debris. NOTE: each part of the coupling has 3 fingers (these are what breaks off), so check to make sure you get all broken parts. Insert the new coupling. It has 3 parts; the plastic fittings go on tight and need to be snug to the shaft. Use a screwdriver handle on the center and tap down with a small hammer. Spray silicone on the rubber coupler to allow a little better slide.
Reverse the process. Line the gear box and motor up and push back into the tub assembly. We used 2 people to do this. It's easier to have someone stand over it and hold / rotate the gear box while the other one can align the motor & bolt everything back on.
It took us an hour, however, if you were doing a couple you could get it down to 30 min. flat.
Go wash your clothes!

Remove metal cover; remove pump, remove motor, remove tub spin assembly; remove transmission. Remove clutch be removing retaining ring. Installation was reverse. No problems, part worked like champ.

Note: Called Sears to see if I could get the part locally. Turns our I had to call an 800 number. Lady said that the part was not carried and would have to be shipped from warehouse. Tried to sell me some discharge hoses. Then said the part would cost $65 before S&H. Told her I didn't want to spend that much, she asked how much I wanted to spend and seemed upset when I told her your price. She didn't comp it, just said that theirs was an official part from Sears, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, thanks for the great service!

Removed screws from top control panel. Tilted panel back. Unsnapped two retaining clips and pulled entire washer cover forward. Turned off water and uplugged washer. Disconnected hot and cold water supply. Disconnected supply tube from water inlet valve. Disconnected electrical hook-ups to water inlet valve. Removed water inletvalve. Installed new valve being careful to use new mounting plate supplied and making sure screw holes line up correctly. Re-connected all disconnects and it works like new!

Installed part, now it works great!

Removed the outside body of washer. Used 1/2 plywood between drum and wear pads to make space to pry out pads with screwdriver. Replaced suspension springs and tub spring (use waterproof grease on end of springs. Put washer back together and tested. Problem solved washer not walking all over floor anymore. Thanks for you help.

Put new one on work good, but now can't pump no more .the problem now is the spin cycal broke and I not going to fix it. Thank for the part work good.

Followed instructions other customers provided for hose installation. Haven't installed agitator dogs yet. Need to watch the video on your web site.

I did a Google search for the model number and found this site, PartSelect.com. Based on the diagrams on the site and what I could see underneath the washer, it was clear that the motor coupling was now gone and the shattered pieces of it were all over the floor. So I ordered a new coupling and waited for it to arrive, it was shipped in just a few days. Once I had the new coupling all I had to do was remove a couple of brackets holding the pump onto the motor, and the motor onto the gearbox; unplug the electrical terminals and lift the motor out. There are two halves to the coupling, one sits on the shaft of the gearbox and the other on the shaft of the motor. Both of these are seated into a rubber boot that is also a part of the coupling. Once the motor is sitting on the gearbox with all the coupling parts seated in place, just plug everything back in and replace the brackets. You will need a 1/4 socket to remove/replace the motor brackets. Also, it should be noted that you will want to unhook everything that is hooked to the wall (hoses, power cord) but it assumed you've already done this if you have access the the underneath of the washer.

will not go over step by step here as there are already a multitude of stories on site with exact situation as mine who have already done so.. What I will say is that PartSelect is easily the absolutely best site on the net for a complete problem diagnosis to finished repair experience. Just input your model # and describe the problem and you get instant diagnosis probabilities along with access to a long list of customer Q & A and reviews, along with step by step videos on diagnosing, dis- assembling, and re-assembling along with links to all parts needed and also some secondary tips along the way. The prices are fabulous (example: I got a clutch assembly kit with several parts and 2 additional parts as a just in case for $55 shpg incl, while my local appliance parts place wanted $59 plus tax for just the main part in my assembly kit with a no return policy and no part guarantee, plus it was only 1 day more to have PartSelect pkg arrive than I would have gotten part from local store). This site is FABULOUS !!!

Found leveling spring loose on bottom of washer, the sheet metal on bottom of cabinet ad rusted through. Drilled new hole in sheet metal and installed new leveling spring. Greased hole with blue marine grease so it will last another 40 years.

replace clutcher

Pretty much like shown in the video tutorial however I didn't disconnect the water hoses. I unplugged the machine and pulled it forward 6 inches. Took it apart like in the video but because of space restrictions I took the cabinet into another room to replace the switch and then re-assembled. The hardest part was getting the cabinet to re-seat as before. It took several attempts but it's all done and the machine is working like a champ. I listed a magnet because I use them to keep the nuts and screws from getting lost