11016212502 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

After researching possible failure modes and reviewing a video for teardown/access from the control panel and access top down I noticed a lot of 'break dust' on top of the transmission. Shorting out the lid switch and putting my little finger on the drum, it would not spin but the clutch was spinning fine. I ordered a new clutch... Interesting thing when I was taking the clutch out... the gear it was attached to slid right off! After figuring out it was too big to go 'back' into the transmission and reviewing the parts explosion diagram... it BELONGED INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION! So I took the transmission cover off, poured out out the black-ish oil with metal filings in it, put the gear inside, filled it back up with 10W30, put the lid on, added the new clutch while it was apart and finished reassembly. Wow! It spins much better than when it was new. I guess never assume what can happen on an assembly line. Thanks for the great site.

took motor of 2 screws instaled motor coupling

The training video you supplied was right on. I watched it twice to make sure I understood the procedure. I followed the steps outlined in the video and encountered no surprises. The replacement valve was a perfect match and functioned perfectly after installation. I checked other sources for the price of the replacement part. Your price was more than competative. Thank you for a fine service.

It was really easy, just follow the video. The washer machine sounds like new now.

After alot of helpful advise from you guys I replaced coupling water pump clutch, and the problem was still their. Then I tested motor capacitor and it appears dead. So I should receive new one tomorrow and hopefully success! I turned machine over and oil leak..so that's where the string with hose and air needle come in handy to put 90weight oil in through breather hole in gear case.

Tilt the washer back enough to access the bottom of the washer. Remove two hose clamps with pliers,then remove 2 hoses attached to pump. Remove two metal spring straps and remove pump. reverse to install.

Let me start by saying that I only had to wait one day for the new water pump. Awesome! Once I figured out how to accessed the waterpump, the real challenge began. The washer had been leaking for some time and removing the old pump turned out to be more difficult than expected. The bottom clip used to secure the pump was completely rusted. It took some effort to remove the old pump but it finally came off. Once it was removed, I discovered why it was so difficult. The drive shaft from the motor was so rusted that a groove had been worn into it. I ended up using a metal file to smooth off the rust in order to install the new pump. With a bit of coaxing, I was able to install the new pump, re-attach the hoses and re-assemble the machine. It works like a charm now. No more leaking! Yeah!

Turned machine on it’s back after removing the hose that goes to the drain, removed the bottom dust guard, I removed the hoses (take a picture before removing things so you know how to orient them when putting it back together) and drained the water first but this is not necessary (there are YouTube videos where they suggest removing the outer case, unclipping the pump and then removing the motor. This would be optimal as you don't need to deal with the water running out of the washer when you remove the hoses). Removed the 4 electrical connectors (multi-plug, 1 x two prong plug and 2 capacitor connector plugs) One of the motor hangers were broken on my machine, I removed the other one and then slipped the motor out. Removed the broken hanger and securing screws and the old rubber grommets, slipped the coupling out (had to leverage out with a large flat screwdriver). Installed new coupling and rubber on the gearbox side, 4 grommets on the motor and the other coupling on the motor. Inserted the hangers on the gearbox side and then mounted the motor. (it is easier if you turn the washer on its back so the drum moves down and gives you more room to drop the motor in from the top), clipped the motor hangers on and fastened the two metal screws, mounted the pump and hoses and reinstalled the dust guard. Turned it right side up and tested before dragging it back into the laundry. Washing again like it did when first bought it in 1998. I would recommend that when a coupling brakes, replace it as well as the hangers and grommets to make sure it has no room for play. Mine broke way too quick as I did the last coupling about a year ago, problem I think was that I had the wrong grommets causing excessive vibration and wear.

I followed the instructions on youtube and replaced the drain pump. It was so easy!!! I am so proud of myself and so is my husband! I took off the cover and simply replaced the drain pump. I am such a stud! :)

I followed the instructions on the video. One difference with the Kenmore model is that the screws were in front instead of the rear of the machine. Still had to pull the machine out to get to the rear to replace the valve. All went smoothly and the unit works like new. Now it takes less then half the time to do laundry. Great parts and timely delivery. Excellent instructional video and instructions. You folks are the best. Thank you.

Started to replace the water pump but looked online at Youtube and everyone said to look at the lid switch first. I bypassed the switch and sure enough that was it! No need for the pump.

My brother-in-law did the repair. He unscrewed the back of the top part of the machine. He located the lid switch, which is on the right from the back of the machine (left if you look at it from the front). He then unscrewed the ground wire and unhooked the old lid switch. He put the new one in place, hooked it back up, screwed the ground wire. Reconnected everything and now it works.

Tilted the washer on the side with my wife holding it. Pulled the pump out then replaced it with the new one.

Lifted up the control panel, removed the broken lid switch and replaced it. Replaced missing Lid hinge mounting screws. It was great. Fixed the problem. Felt empowered to fix it ourselves for such a reasonable cost. Thanks

Short solution: Machine acted unbalanced no matter how it was loaded and replacing all of the springs seems to have fixed the problem. Long solution: The washing machine was acting unbalanced no matter how I loaded the washer so I removed the cover to see if there was anything obvious (there wasn't). After looking around online I found someone with a similar issue who replaced the suspension springs with success. So I replaced the suspension springs AND the counter balance spring but before I swapped them I did a test to see if the old springs were worn. The test was hanging a 10lb weight from each spring and measuring the stretch of the springs to figure out the "new" vs "old" K values. The results showed that the old and new suspension springs had about the same K values but that the old counter balance spring had lost roughly 50% of its spring constant compared to the new counter balance spring. So replacing one of the springs did show a measurable gain in spring strength and the issue has been resolved thus far (12 loads of laundry without issue). I would still replace all of the springs if I was doing it again because it worked for cheap. Parts arrived 4 days after ordering them and they are genuine Whirlpool parts.