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11015732400 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11015732400
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Leaking water from under the front of the washer
Used pliers to help disconnect hoses, unplugged power cord, laid washer on its back, unsnapped two clips holding pump to the motor, lifted pump off, and replaced it.
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Water Pump
  • John from Morgantown, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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Agitator not functioning
Popped agitator cap. Used ratchet to remove screw. Pulled off base unit. Inserted cogs into slots after removing worn and or broken cogs. Reinstalled......done!
Parts Used:
Agitator Directional Cogs
  • Sam from Chesterland, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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washer did not start
Your video was very helpful, we watched twice before disassembling washer, it was difficult, because the space was small, we tried not to take water tubes out. Anyway finally we changed the switch, washer works fine now. Many thanks.
Parts Used:
Lid Switch Assembly
  • Youli from Sunnyvale, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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The washer would fill but not run.
I determined the problem from the Partselect website and ordered the switch. I received the switch and watched the repair video on the website. It seemed like a lot of disassembly at first for this but it was necessary and not at all difficult after watching the video. I completed the repair in about 30 minutes. I would like to add that by using the Partselect website, I have diagnosed and repaired a refrigerator (condenser fan & icemaker), and dishwasher (thermal fuse), all in the past 90 days. I am very satisfied with your service and have recommended you to many people so far. Thank You.
Parts Used:
Lid Switch Assembly
  • Don from Pagosa Springs, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Water leaking from under front of machine
After watching the video and reading some of the instructions posted on Parts Select I disconnected the power cord, shut off and disconnected the water lines before laying the washer down on its "back" with help of a dolly.(IF you don’t own a dolly this can still be done without one but I recommend having a friend help you depending on your age and health) Once I had the washer laid down it became apparent to me that I didn’t need to take the whole "cover" off but could do the repair from the bottom of the machine. Following the instructions I first removed the hose clamps from the hose running from the pump to the tub and the hose that runs to the back of the machine where the drain to the wall attaches. I then "popped" the two clips off the pump as described in the video and after removing the pump I turned the clips to the side and removed them as well. At this point I removed the clamp from the "pump to tub" hose on the tub side and then removed the hose. I followed this up by removing the entire hose assembly that the "pump to drain hose" hose attaches too. Once you've seen this "assembly" you'll understand what I mean. Anyway, once that was done and the new parts had arrived (parts came quickly I placed my order on Thru evening and received them on Tues with the Labor Day weekend in-between) Install was as simply as removal, I laid the machine down using the dolly and then simply installed everything starting with "pump to drain hose assembly" then the "tub to pump hose" then the pump itself and finally both hoses to the pump. The "pump to tub" hose came with two new clamps however they are the type of hose clamps requiring the use of a screw drive to tighten not the original type it had on it that you just squeeze with pliers. I used the new ones that came in the package. The other hose didn’t come with a clamp and only has one where it connects to the pump, so I reused the original. I would suggest that you also check or just replace the drain line that runs from the machine to the wall at the same time as the rest of this repair as I did not and the 1st time I ran the machine that hose sprung a leak.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose Direct Drive Water Pump Tub-to-Pump Hose Kit
  • Kevin from Avondale, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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leaking water pump
After removing the outer shell of the machine, and disconnecting the supply hoses, I leaned the machine on it's back and disconnected the drain line. Then, it was simply a matter of removing and replacing the damaged pump with the new one. The pump is held in place by two easily removable clips. The hardest part of the whole process was making sure the shaft from the motor lines up with the corresponding hole on the pump.
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Water Pump
  • Erin from Annapolis, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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machine would not rinse or spin
I watched the video and followed the instruction. It couldn't have been easier!
Parts Used:
Lid Switch Assembly
  • ROBERT from KEY WEST, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Agitator cogs broken
Followed instructions on WEB site, they were very easy.
Parts Used:
Agitator Directional Cogs
  • Arnold A from Greers Ferry, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Lid relay switch was going bad. Washer would run then it wouldn't, switch was getting stuck.
It was a piece of cake other than the front of washer coming off and getting put back on. Ordering was a breeze and getting the order placed and getting it delivered to the house was so fast. Couldn't be happier with the service. I had doubts on the part being the right one, it didn't say Kenmore on the package.The washer works like brand new..I could have done this repair myself if the washer didn't have to be drug out of laundry space. Thanks so much...
Parts Used:
Lid Switch Assembly
  • Norma from Berwick, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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cogs wornout i overload too much
watched the video piece of cake good job guys
Parts Used:
Agitator Directional Cogs
  • george from middleburg, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Bad Motor Coupler
So, the instructional video was great but be warned that you REALLY need to hammer the part into place. Basically hammer it into place so that the end of the shaft that it goes on is flush with the plastic piece of the coupler on both ends. Otherwise, you'll put the washer together and run a load and it'll squeal and smell like burning rubber. We had to take it apart like 3 times before we got it on there securely enough. We would then run an empty load and it would be fine but as soon as we would add clothes the squealing and burning would ensure. So, my advice is to hammer it in well and save yourself the time and struggle!
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Motor Coupling
  • Hilary from Gainesville, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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The washer would turn 45° by finish spin
With no broke springs I thought that they might be weak so I ordered them but didn't install them as I found that the basket had a drag at one point of turning it, so I took it down to the clutch and found the nylon arm that released the brake had the small pins broken off. This would cause the brake to not release full enough that the eccentricity in it had a drag spot during the spin causing tremendous vibration. To disassemble I took the transmission off and the basket off and install new clutch assembly with the basket laying horizontal on a table. I did notice that the new clutch only had three pads on the band and the old one had six. I called you back with no satisfaction, but was given the phone # of the manufacturer and they confirmed that theirs had six pads but the part # checked out so I installed it. It now sits basically still during a cycle. I made and supervised the making of parts in a machine shop all my working carrier and I don't understand the weak link of the nylon pins milled / molded on a part that takes a lick from the actuator every cycle. It appears to me it was made to break, but it is about 20 years old. Thanks for your video help on the tube. Fred
Parts Used:
Single Motor Grommet Clutch Assembly
  • Fred from Hico, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Washer woulp not spin, brake cam driver not like video
changed parts easily, following the video. Problem was the BRAKE CAM DRIVER, the plastic piece that fits around the shaft near the drum. The old one was visibly torn up, the pegs worn off, the whole thing worn down. The problem with the repair was the video showed an "E ring" holding it on and my washer had no E ring, had nothing hold it. It just sat there. Installed it anyway, although I was worried it was too loose. Sure enough there was a problem. it spun initially then started that ugly clicking noise. turned off washer immediately, disassembled again, and prayed. I found a large flat washer to take up the slack between the clutch and the plastic brake cam driver, reassembled, tightening the nuts a fair bit tighter than before. both the nuts on the transmission and the nut on top the agitator. works perfect!
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Motor Coupling Clutch Assembly
  • Jody from Elk Creek, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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direct drive motor coupling
Unplug washer. turn hot and cold water off. disconnect and mark water hoses. put a blanket on floor and lean washer on its back. use screw driver to remove metal clamps from water pump. use ratchet or nut driver to,,remove screws from metal clamps on motor.remove metal clamps with screw driver. unplug wire harness from motor. remove motor and remove old drive coupling and repelace with new part.
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Motor Coupling
  • Eugene from Chiefland, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Upper agitator not turning. Making loud grinding noise.
Remove top cap to access 1/2" bolt. Remove bolt and pull entire assembly up and off of shaft.Disassemble unit by taking long std. screwdriver to release 2 small locking tabs. Flip over and remove ratcheting upper assemble from larger lower piece.Now you will see the broken cams and be able to replace.Assemble in reverse order.
Parts Used:
Agitator Directional Cogs
  • Jim from Aptos, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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All Instructions for the 11015732400
1156 - 1170 of 1310