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broken shelf stud
I read a previous entry that stated the stud needed to be twisted out, which was very useful. I was bit worried at first when I removed the broken one and a bit of the insulation came out and it seemed mangled inside, but twisting the new one in worked. It is in there firm and strong, good as original.
One front roller was flat on one side. Decided to replace all rollers at same time. Placed shims under unit and removed mounting screws for one front and one rear roller. With new rollers in place, I was able to level the refrigerator side to side, but unable to do so, front to back. Left the new front roller in place and reinstalled the old rear roller. Have decided to replace refrigeratorin the near future. This is one of my few repair failures!
Unit would freeze then defrost but not go back into freezing again untill I moved the thermostat
Turn off power .Remove the control knobs and pry off the front panel ,it just snaps on,Take out two screws holding the control panel Take out the two screws holding the control to the base of the panel to get at the two screws holding the control to the bracket. Ther are screws holding the covers over the thermostat tube. Then pull out the tubbe and remove the plastic cover on the old control and place it on the new control tube. Then route the new tube into the snaps be careful to not make ant sharp bends in tubing.When that is done fasten the control to the bracket and fasten the bracket to the panel.Replace covers over tube to hide it and keep from damaging it when putting things in fridge.. Mount the conrol bracket back to the fridge and replace snap on cover. Plug in electric.
Our refrigerator failed to cool in stages, finally quitting to cool or run.
First, after re-reading your descriptions here on your site ( it took clues from each of them) I unplugged the refrigerator and began on the only day my husband was out of town. The two selector knobs came off easily fingers only. The plate came off with only a slight prying with a screwdriver (it is intended to snap off this way). Loosening the screws and removing them in order to remember which order they returned proved to be a challenge. After disassembly, pulling the thermostat out of the tubing and replacing it with the new one without bending it was hard to do also. The refrigerator runs like new, and may run another eleven years! Thanks!
Went online with the model number, the part was very easy to find, diagrams helped me to have confidence in the choice. Parts came in two days, tore them open and used a screw driver to replace the broken shelf brackets, replaced shelves, I am a happy camper!!
Replacing the support clips was simple. But since the replacements were the same as the ones that had failed, I modified them by epoxying metal strips on each side of the fingers which had failed. Without this mod I think they would have failed very shortly like the original ones did. This added a half hour to the repair.
****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years
inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."
freezer and refrigerator compartments not cold enough
Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.
