10663842302 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I checked the fuses and hoses in the back of the refrigerator to make sure water WAS in fact getting to the front of the fridge. Since the water through the front door worked fine, I had to check the water tube running to the ice maker. It was fine and water was waiting to go somewhere! I decided to pull the icemaker out of the fridge to see what I could fine. Once it was out, I took the ICEMAKER CONTROL AND MOTOR ASSEMBLY off (that's the side part with the dial on it). Only 3 screws to take that off, and it was EASY to see what was wrong once I took that off. There was a connection that was obviously bad (looked almost like it had burned out). My thought was that it was obvious what part was bad, what would it hurt for me to try to fix it myself? When I got online to find the part, PartSelect was the only one that I found that had the EXACT part that I needed, and lucky for me, there were multiple pictures of multiple angles of the part so I could compare and make sure I had the right one!! The part with shipping cost less than the cost of a repair tech to even come out and look at the fridge. Then add the cost of the part and labor if I had the repair tech fix it...I probably saved about $250!!!!

I first disconnected the power cord and then removed all the panels and disconnected the Defrost Heater at the quick-disconnect, and cut the wires on the Defrost Themostat. (The Defrost Thermostat had been replaced about 10 years ago when the Defrost Heater was replaced.) One of the reasons it took longer than 15 minutes was because there was a buildup of ice in the freezer section. I then soldered the wires and covered them with a plastic sleeve and wrapped them in electrical tape. After replacing all the panels and re-connecting the power cord, I restarted the refrigerator. After one week, there is no water dripping from the freezer and everything is working properly. Your diagnosis of the problem was exactly right. Thanks for the info.

We took the edge out of the slot and pulled the old one off then put the new one on. Once we got the plastic edge started into the slot it was a breeze. Only took about 5 minutes. We were very pleased with the results.

I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.

I removed the ice maker assembly from the freezer compartment (four nuts/ nut driver) and unplugged the wire harness. I discovered the nature of the problem and I went on the Internet to look for replacement parts expecting I'd have to buy the entire ice maker. When I found PartSelect.com I looked through the pictures of the parts available for my ice maker. I found the correct part quickly and easily. And having an acurate photo on the site, I was able to match all the key features of the mold I had with the one on the screen. I ordered the part, and installed it the day it arrived with just a Phillips screwdriver and a nut driver. It functions perfectly.

Definatly a two man job. I suggest you put a pad down to protect your floor. Remove the filter, grill, and bolts per instructions. Everything is straight forward. Move the frame back 1/2 to 1 inch then tilt the frig back on it's side about 4 inches. If the frame doesn't drop down, move it back until the front of the frame comes of the front lip of the frig. Place a block under the frig lip NOT the frame and WATCH YOUR FINGERS. The wheel should be hanging down. Just pull out the pin, replace the wheel (make sure you have it facing the correct way) and tilt back and pull the blocks. Move the frig back in place and replace the bolts. Took me and a buddy less than 30 minutes.

Very pleased with the delivery time. Was able to repair the refrigerator before the beer got hot. Replacement was easy.
Removed blower housing. Replaced motor. Put blower housing back in place.

Just removed the old timer and attached the wires to the new one and replaced the old. That simple!

The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

We just had to find the trick to put it in where it would catch on and the rest was a piece a cake.

You had to put it in the groove where it would catch and snap it in place and the rest went in
pretty easy.

Replacement was very easy as new ice maker was identical to the old one. Took about 10 minutes.

removed the three screw holding the broken unit - pulled off the old module.

Before I could install new module I had to loosen some fasteners on ice maker so I could turn shaft to align with new module.

Then push on new unit and three screws. Had tumbling ice in about an hour. My wife thinks I'm a hero. (I am)

The only tricky part of ordering replacement drawers for this fridge is that the bottom ones are two different sizes so you have to be sure you order the right one. Measure the width and look closely at the exploded drawing to be sure you are getting the right one.

Removed 1/4 screw from housing to access thermostat. removed plastic tubing and three wires, reassembled and it works fine.
Repair took 12 minutes