10657909701 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

due to over filling and closing the drawers with the door and kicking, the plastic runners broke. Also, over filling the drawers did not help.
AS for the repair, the only difficulty was getting the right drawer in the right spot. Since I replaced both the veggie and meat drawer at the same time, I got them confused. On drawer is longer than the other. other than that, no problem.

First removed the outside cover plate which was some what scary not to break plastic cover. Had read about another discription of removal of cover to start from the bottom because the top is inserted in slots that would have broken if removed from the top. After cover plate removed it was simple to remove the broken parts and install the new parts. The most difficult part to put back in was the spring and rod had to be inserted the same time.

I removed the screw holding the spring steel retainer/clip using a quarter inch ratchet wrench a swivel with a quarter inch socket and a short extention, then just installed the new one. This spring steal through the door ice maker / water despenser lever spring was an easy fix.
I found you by googling appliance repair parts, and found your site really easy to use. I couldn't believe how fast the part came and the very reasonable price. I put you on my web browser's favorites.
Thanks,
Ron

removed the shaft that had worn end-replaced with new one- ok now

I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.

I removed the ice maker assembly from the freezer compartment (four nuts/ nut driver) and unplugged the wire harness. I discovered the nature of the problem and I went on the Internet to look for replacement parts expecting I'd have to buy the entire ice maker. When I found PartSelect.com I looked through the pictures of the parts available for my ice maker. I found the correct part quickly and easily. And having an acurate photo on the site, I was able to match all the key features of the mold I had with the one on the screen. I ordered the part, and installed it the day it arrived with just a Phillips screwdriver and a nut driver. It functions perfectly.

I looked at some online diagnostics info and the owner's manual. The "error code" blinking red light on the receiver unit (located adjacent to the ice bucket) indicated that the emitter/receiver units were faulty. I located the parts on the PartSelect website (their price was less than half of what they wanted on the Sears website) and ordered them. I didn't pay for the expedited shipping and still received the parts within two days of ordering. Powered down the refrigerator, three simple screws to remove each cover for the emitter and receiver, unplug the old units and pop in the new units, replace the covers for each unit, repowered the fridge and, voila, you've got ice. I completed the repairs in less than 10 minutes. Couldn't be happier with the price, the diagnostics links/info or the prompt service. Next time I have an appliance issue, my first stop will be this website.

I unplugged the refrigerator, then I taped ice shield up to top of refrigerator and taped the little flap on the left side of the refrigerator to side wall then I unscrewed one screw on the right side that holds the plug cover, which was then removed. I then updid the little latches on the icemaker and pulled the old ice maker out far enough to unplug the connector, which was not easy, but did unplug. I then unscrewed the three screws with the nutdriver and attached the bottom cover to the new ice maker. I then slid the new icemaker far enough to connect the electrical connector, then slid the new icemaker in until it latched. I replaced the connector cover and untaped the two items that had been taped and pluged the refrigerator into the wall socket. The new icemaker has produced ice every since.

Removed food itmes on broken shelf. Removed old glass shelf cover. Removed broken shelf bracket. Installed new shelf bracket. Intalled new glass shelf cover. Replaced food items back on shelf

took back of refrigerator, removed water lines, removed electrical connections. removed 2 screws holding water valve, replaced water valve, replaced electrical connection, replaced water lines. Put back on refrigerator. Tested water on freezer door. Didn't work, had to take refrigerator back off again and check the electrical. I didn't get one of the connection put on securely, Put back on refrigerator, check water on freezer door. It worked. Make sure the electrical connection are connected this will sav you about 10 minutes of repair time

a simple replacement

I removed the Ice door front cover on freezer door. Found door pivot was broken. I installed door pivot bracket, and dashpot in kit. I used most of the kit to repair it. The door now works like new. Thanks for the right parts Frank

The design of this refrigerator door (it's a side-by-side) is somewhat unbelievable. The door is designed to hold things, yet when you do the weight of the door wears out the lower door cams. The cams are designed to "complete the door closing", i.e. when you gently push on the door the cam mechanism takes over. When the cams wear, the door fails to close. Note to others - you may mistakenly think that the failure of the door to close is related to the seal; it is not.

The repair is quite easy; remove the upper cover, using a not driver (socket), then remove the upper door bracket. Make sure you hold the door or have someone else hold it. After the fasteners are removed gently lift up on the door and remove it from the lower cam assembly. You will see two plastic cam pieces; one on the lower bracket and one on the door. Both need to be changed to effectively "renew" the door closing mechanism. Once the cams are replaced the door can be reassembled to the refrigerator.

Unplug refridge, shut off water supply, remove backing. Remove two screws holding in valve, pull out valve and remove water lines. Have towel to wipe up very little water that leaks out. Unplug electric sources, remove old valve. Take new valve , plug in electric sources, push in water supply until they bottom out, attach bracket to back of refridge. Replace backing, turn on water supply, plug in and bleed lines.

The part to fix this was a $50.00 part.
I purchased this Bracket Dispenser for $6.00 and it fit on My fridge perfectly. I just used the screw hole that was a little higher on the water dispenser. Simply cut off the broken end / or Buy a new Hose (Cost at Lowes about $6.00) guide hose along the bracket and use a socken set to reinstall the screw. Water is not squirting on people any more.