Models > 10652603100 > Instructions

10652603100 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for 10652603100 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 10652603100
31-45 of 1240
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Ice maker quit making ice

  • Customer: Dean from Pahrump NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 30 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the ice maker which required removing 3 screws and then disconnecting the electrical plug. Once the ice maker was out, I removed the 3 screws that held the motor assembly to the unit.
I removed the motor, replacing it with the new one.
Plugged the power supply cord back in, replaced the unit with the 3 screws and within a few minutes the unit was receiving water and by the next day I had ICE. This saved me $50. for the service call, then another $25.00 installation fee when the part came in (had to be ordered) plus the markup on the motor (approx. $25.00) So I saved approx. $100. and only took about 30 min.

could not dispense ice from door

  • Customer: thomas from forked river NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 32 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
no ice came out from the door dispenser after researching here i found it to be the auger drive motor for the ice dispenser cost $50.00 but was well worth it took less than 15 minutes to replace and was super easy to do. saved on service calls and repairman cg's. directions on how to were also found here and very helpful. i highly reccomend this site if you are a little mechanically inclined you can fix and save big!!!!!!!!!

Refrigerator Door quit closing on it's own......

  • Customer: T.w. from Batesville AR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 27 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Door quit closing on it's own......

** Order the following from www.partselect.com

Lower Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS323495

Upper Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS327641




1. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket
2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket cover on top of hinge
3. Have someone hold the frige door in place
4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose
5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge.
6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam"
7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one.
8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place.
9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though.
10. Replace with new cam.
11. put door back on hinge
12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws
13. Reinstall plastic cover.
14. Voila, you're done

Thanks PartSelect !

woke up to very harshburnt wire smell cominf from the back of the refrigerator

  • Customer: Don from New Port Richey FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 27 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
I found many helpful tips and pdf instructions online, removed the back of the refrigerator can remove the compressor relay. I ordered a new compressor relay or start relay kit, followed the instructions and put the new compressor relay in. Refrigerator is working great...

Water would not dispense.

  • Customer: Timothy from Junction City OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 31 of 44 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the refrigerator. Snap off the ring surrounding the dispenser from the bottom. There are two slots on the bottom. This is the toughest part of the repair because my refigerator is older and the part stuck. Then unscrew the two hex screws and unsnap the parts, then reassemble with the new parts. Snap the ring back on and you're all set. Pretty easy.

old water inlet valve would not close completely, resulting in incessant leaks & puddles on the floor...

  • Customer: Robert from Franklin MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 27 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the cardboard backer board at the bottom rear of the refrigerator. I had to remove two screws to free the old inlet valve from the frame. The old water tube fittings were compression (screw on) type, so I cut the ends off cleanly with a sharp blade. They inserted into the valve holes easily - just needed a good push to lock them in solidly. The tubes are different sizes, so it was easy to know which one goes in which hole - the electric connectors were easy to transfer from old to new... screwed the new valve back onto the frame, re-installed the cardboard backer, flushed the system -- and no more leaks!!

Icemaker failed

  • Customer: RICHARD from POUGHKEEPSIE NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
1) Remove 2 screws holding the coverplate in front of the icemaker. 2) Remove 1 screw at the lower right-rear of the icemaker unit to free the plastic electrical connector cover. 3) Pry the connector cover to the rear (it's flexible plastic, so this can be done with finger pressure alone). 4)Slide the icemaker unit forward (a bit of wiggling the unit is required here to get it at an angle where it will clear its mounting tracks). 5) Disconnect the electrical connector (depress the plastic tab on the side of the connector with your right hand while holding the unit with your left). That's all that's required to get the icemaker out of the freezer and onto a bench. 6) Pry off the plastic cover (left side of the unit) over the motor assembly housing. 7) Examine the circuitry for corrosion/oxidation. (The external circuitry is made of approx. 1/8" copper strips set into channels in the plastic motor assembly housing, which, over time, can corrode to become non-conducting blue copper oxide powder.) Also, inspect the contact points for the heater element and sensors in the motor (same potential problem). 8) Remove the 3 screws attaching the motor assembly to the icemaker unit. 9) Go to PartSelect.com and enter the make & model number of your refrigerator, then select a new motor assembly. (Compare the picture to your motor assembly to make sure you have the right one. Also, print out the exploded diagram of the icemaker unit - useful for reassembly and for future repairs.) Reinstall in reverse order of the above. Total repair cost = approx. $63.00 (motor assembly) + $7.00 (S&H) = $70. Performing a major appliance repair for $70 is a VERY good deal. If you call a repairman, you are going to pay THROUGH THE NOSE (i.e., $100's). DIY forever!

The bin coupler broke in half

  • Customer: Dan from Huntington Beach CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
When I inspected the ice bin I noticed the bin coupler was in half. So I ordered the part. I removed the screw that held in the old part. I saved the two washers. Simply following the diagram on the website made reassembly a piece of cake. It is obvious which piece is the coupling as only it can fit the other coupling. I put the screw back in and it was done.

was not cooling

  • Customer: steve from melbourne FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
I unscrewed the bottom of the back panel and heard a clicking noise from the compressor starter. it was held in by a clip, flipped it to the side pulled the starter off and disconnected the wire harness. pushed the new one in reconnected it . And it worked. I have very little experience and it was very easy.

Fridge made noise and the center post was HOT!

  • Customer: David from Jefferson City MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 23 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
We have a side-by-side fridge/freezer and we experienced a hot center post (where doors come together) and the fridge made loud noise. Also, the (old) fan motor would start, but then quit, so our issue was the motor.

For me the repair was very easy, but for an unexperienced person it may prove to be difficult. If you must order a motor/fan, do NOT order the metal fan as a plastic fan comes with the motor. What's strange is the new motor is different than the old one, but it still mounted without any required modifications. I did NOT use the wire harness that came with the motor either as it was different too, but my old one was still good.

Check all of your parts as my fan had a cracked blade, but I used "superglue" and it's fine now.

Fridge stays cold and my wife had to lower the temperature in the fridge as she was blasted by the cold!

Ice door was broken

  • Customer: Ray from San Antonio TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
1) At bottom of ice maker trim there are two small slots at right and left ; use screw driver to pry away from door; lift trim upward away from door 2)using 1/4" nutdriver remove screws from 4 corners, 3) remove 2 screws from control panel 4) disconnect all wires/cables and set exterior panel aside. 5) locate 2" pin that runs through door spring and use needle nose pliers to remove round clip on left end of pin don't lose this clip 6) while pushing ice maker lever (where you would push with your glass) use needle nose to pull the long pin out to the right 7) Remove all remaining parts by hand (i.e. the pin, the dash pot and white lever and the ice door) 8)slide new control lever into slots on exterior side of the new door 9) -tricky part- using needle nose, push pin back through the right hinge point, the new lever, the new door, the new spring and the left hinge point (note the new door has no electric wire connector) 10) using the needle nose, carefully replace the little round clip on the left end of the metal pin. 11) reconnect all the wires (don't worry about the wire that had been connected to the door wire, just fold it aside) 12) replace two screws screws in control panel and four screws at corners of exterior panel 13) snap outer trim panel back in place.

Drawer Broke

  • Customer: Brian from Fort Collins CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 22 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I first opened a beer to gain some liquid courage. The crowd (dog and 2yr old) were anxiously watching while I first grabbed hold of the refrigerator door. The door swung open with a mighty roar exposing the huge gaping whole where the previous crisper pan once shelved itself in glory. I took aim, and slid that new crisper pan in like it was meant to be. The crowd went nuts...but probably because the tv commercial was over and Sesame Street was back on. Thanks partselect!

REFRIGERATOR WASN'T COOLING,EVAPORATER COIL FREEZING UP

  • Customer: Robert from Doral FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment.
The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good

Ice dispenser would not dispense ice through the door

  • Customer: Larry from Garner NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the frig, and turned offed the water and ice dispenser using the on/off panel switch. I removed the panel by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver at the bottom of the panel where the plastic studs locked the panel in place. By inserting a little upward pressure, the panel popped right ouff. The Micro Switch was very easy to remove and replace. Just make sure that the plunger on the ice dispenser makes solid contact with the switch when depressed.

No Ice, Water did not fill icemaker

  • Customer: Barbara from Davenport IA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 26 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
We weren't sure if the problem was in the Water Inlet Valve or in the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. The water in the door did work. We removed the Water Inlet Valve & tested it with an Ohm Meter. It tested good so we put it back in. We then ordered the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. When it arrived we installed it and waited a few hours but the icemaker still did not fill with water. We telephoned a parts store and were told the problem could be the thermostat or we could replace the whole icemaker. We replaced the whole icemaker.
All Instructions for the 10652603100
31-45 of 1240