10651254101 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Ordered part over the phone and received it two days later.....excellent service

Simply popped the broken one out by gently pushing up from both sides; then popped the new one in by gently pushing down from both sides. (Also, I ordered an extra shelf for the door and now have even more space in my fridge!)

Door cams were worn out. Removed food from door. Removed top hinge cover and hinge. Lifted door off lower hinge pin and placed door on a table. Removed old door cam and installed new one. Replaced closing cam on lower hinge. Set door back on lower hinge and closed door (magnetic strips hold the door in place). Reinstalled top hinge and replaced cover.

took out the old one and replaced with new. PERFECT FIT.

un-plug the power cord. remove both control knobs. pry off the cover. remove 1 screw on the right and left with the nut driver. remove two screws in back with the nut driver. remove the screw holding thermostat in place, loosen screw holding the left side of the l plate. lift thermostat up and remove two nut driver screws. remove the temperature sensing line from holding device. Remove cover down the side of refrigerator and the cover over the sensor (in back corner) carefully remove the sensor line. Carefully bend the sensor tube into the shape of the removed part(do not kink)install the new part in the reverse order of removing.. Use flat blade screw driver to press sensor line into the snaps. This was one of the easiest repairs I have ever completed.

Simply done !

I removed ice maker from mounting rack but left wiring connected. Checked power between N & L: 120V (OK). Shorted T & H: no harvest cycle. Shorted L & V: no water came out to fill tray. Shorted H & N: heater did not turn on. Also noted that LED on right Electronic Control Board would flash 2X, then pause, then 2X, then pause, regardless of flapper position on left Control Board. Replaced Icemaker Control Assembly first (also purchased replacement Control Boards). Icemaker started working. Noticed that original Control Boards still worked the same way (LED flashing regardless of flapper position) BUT ONLY IN CERTAIN STAGE OF CONTROL BOARD CYCLE. At other times in cycle, LED would turn steady on when flapper closed, and right after tray fills with new water, LED does not light at all. Apparently this is NORMAL. I ended up not replacing old Electronic Control Boards. Icemaker took 3 days to totally refill ice bin - I presume this is also normal.

Exactly how the instructional video described it to be. No surprises what so ever. Ended up not being the culprit to my problem. Ordered and installed a bi-metal defrost timer. Also, extremely easy as the instructional video described it to be. Partselect is an awesome resource for knowledge and quality products with very reasonable prices.

I order the suspect part before pulling out the ice tray and whole ice maker for inspection. As it turns out my ice tray was peeling and all gunked up and I needed a new one. I suggest in the case of ice maker issues that you pull the entire ice maker before ordering what appears to be the troubled part. I had to replace the whole ice maker which was not really that much more money than just the part.

I called in a repairman, who wasn't sure what the problem was but suggested it "might" be the electronic control boards. He charged me $55 for the service call, which I initially thought was reasonable. Then I found your website purely accidentally. I watched the video several times and read all of the comments posted. I then decided I would wait to see what the repairman would quote me for the part and the additional labor charge. He told me the part was $125. and the additional service charge was another $75. I decided to order the part, which arrived in 2 days. I am a woman who has never repaired anything on my own, but I decided to take a chance with this. It took me about 20 to 30 minutes to install both parts and within a few hours the first ice cubes fell. I was so proud of myself and very pleased that I found your website. The price of the part was reasonable, the video was very straightforward and all of the comments were extremely helpful. Thank you.

1. Remove the ice-maker/water dispenser cover plate located on the freezer door, by: inserting a putty knife blade at the bottom and freeing up the two retainer tabs; then pushing up. (note: be careful pulling the cover plate, there are many electrical connections on the back).

2. Note the electrical connections on the back of the cover plate and locate the connect close to the inside of the freezer door and disconnect it. (Note: this is much easier than pulling each wire off its connection point and then having to remember which color coded wire went where).

3. Carefully work the door hinge pin back out to the right and remove it and the hinge (Note: in my case the pin was already half way out so the old door couldn't close - and since this model door had a heater which came on because the door was misaligned there was constant flow of warm upwards causing ice to melt, run down and re freeze thus making the door difficult to open).

4. Unscrew the single her head screw holding the small metal piece to the right that retains the know upon which the outer door frame turns. Move the frame to the right to free it and work it out if the way. You now have access to the ice-maker door and hinge pin assy.