10650585001 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Got the main bolts off and unplugged and removed the ice maker. Had to remove all parts and rebuild it on the new mold. Was more complex than I thought but was able to get it done. Note where everything was as you take it off and you'll do fine.

I removed the top door hinge cover, removed the top hinge, pulled the refrigerator door off, layed it on the floor, removed the door cams, installed the new door cams, replaced the doo and top hinge and hinge cover. If you have this problem with your refrigerator door, be sure to replace the upper and lower cam.

Followed instructions- removed and replaced with new water inlet valve also replaced control bracket. Now no leaks and plenty of ice thanks to partselect, the right part, the right price and fast delivery . Thank you

removed the 3 screws from the receiver first, on hinge side with the flap The toughest part was twisting my arm around and upside down to plug the new board into the wire harness since it had very little slack and the wires were stiff from cold, the emitter on the opposite side was as easy, care needed to be taken with the upper screw partially hidden behind ice maker itself but it was an easy removal. Again, short wires and stiff from cold make alignment of the plug to the board just bit awkward to ensure it was seated properly. 15 mins later I heard the first emptying of the ice maker

Remove 3 screws on the emitter and 3 screws on the receiver. Removed the plugs and reinstalled the parts. Very simple and easy. Ice is flowing again.

Researched in "ehow" the procedure. Looked relatively simple so I ordered the part. When it arrived, emptied the frig, pulled it out, thawed out the auto ice maker with a hair dryer. I then examined the old part and compared it to the new part. They were close. Old part had a rivet attaching it to another bracket which had a primary valve that led to the filter cartridge housing. I had to drill out the rivet to seperate the mounting brackets. The electrical connectors were rear facing on the old unit and front facing on the new unit. Not a big problem, just concerned that the solenoid leads might be polarity specific. I called my brother who works on restaurant equipment and he said that as long as the long were the same color, polarity was not an issue. He was right. The second concern I had was that the plastic line from the primary input valve was a stiffer gray plastic line with a rib molded on the ended to secure a metal compression nut. I wondered again if that would cause a problem with the new pressure connector. It did not. Just cut off the rid and slide it in. Frig is working great, dispensing water and ice like it was new. Bought the frig for $1,000 13 years ago, now sells for $2,500. Save a ton of money by buying the part and doing it myself. Thanks.

Did exactly what the video showed . First I went through the test procedure to conferm my boards were bad . But ice maker didn't work after the control boards were replaced. I did some more research to find out what the problem now could be. I discovered where the water goes into the ice tray the line was frozen. Got the hair dryer out and melted the ice that had the water restricted. Been making ice every since. I tell everybody about (part select) web. Sight now

Simply done !

Replaced the water inlet valve. Note: although the web site shows the exact same water inlet valve, the replacement is somewhat different. You'll notice the electric prongs are facing in the opposite direction then the old one. It works like a charm need not worry as I did when I saw that. The old part is actually two parts in one. Use care when separating the front piece (it acts like a coupling where the water supply connects to and simply comes out the other side and into the refrig.) from the water inlet valve. It was a tight fit coupling that front piece to the new valve but it will fit. Make certain you purge 1-2 gallons of water before consuming any. Also dump a tray or two of ice cubes.

I removed ice maker from mounting rack but left wiring connected. Checked power between N & L: 120V (OK). Shorted T & H: no harvest cycle. Shorted L & V: no water came out to fill tray. Shorted H & N: heater did not turn on. Also noted that LED on right Electronic Control Board would flash 2X, then pause, then 2X, then pause, regardless of flapper position on left Control Board. Replaced Icemaker Control Assembly first (also purchased replacement Control Boards). Icemaker started working. Noticed that original Control Boards still worked the same way (LED flashing regardless of flapper position) BUT ONLY IN CERTAIN STAGE OF CONTROL BOARD CYCLE. At other times in cycle, LED would turn steady on when flapper closed, and right after tray fills with new water, LED does not light at all. Apparently this is NORMAL. I ended up not replacing old Electronic Control Boards. Icemaker took 3 days to totally refill ice bin - I presume this is also normal.

I order the suspect part before pulling out the ice tray and whole ice maker for inspection. As it turns out my ice tray was peeling and all gunked up and I needed a new one. I suggest in the case of ice maker issues that you pull the entire ice maker before ordering what appears to be the troubled part. I had to replace the whole ice maker which was not really that much more money than just the part.

I called in a repairman, who wasn't sure what the problem was but suggested it "might" be the electronic control boards. He charged me $55 for the service call, which I initially thought was reasonable. Then I found your website purely accidentally. I watched the video several times and read all of the comments posted. I then decided I would wait to see what the repairman would quote me for the part and the additional labor charge. He told me the part was $125. and the additional service charge was another $75. I decided to order the part, which arrived in 2 days. I am a woman who has never repaired anything on my own, but I decided to take a chance with this. It took me about 20 to 30 minutes to install both parts and within a few hours the first ice cubes fell. I was so proud of myself and very pleased that I found your website. The price of the part was reasonable, the video was very straightforward and all of the comments were extremely helpful. Thank you.

1. Cleared all the food items off the broken shelf. 2. Removed the old shelf. 3. Removed the new shelf from the shipping box. 4. Inserted the new shelf. 5. Replaced food items.

1. Remove the ice-maker/water dispenser cover plate located on the freezer door, by: inserting a putty knife blade at the bottom and freeing up the two retainer tabs; then pushing up. (note: be careful pulling the cover plate, there are many electrical connections on the back).

2. Note the electrical connections on the back of the cover plate and locate the connect close to the inside of the freezer door and disconnect it. (Note: this is much easier than pulling each wire off its connection point and then having to remember which color coded wire went where).

3. Carefully work the door hinge pin back out to the right and remove it and the hinge (Note: in my case the pin was already half way out so the old door couldn't close - and since this model door had a heater which came on because the door was misaligned there was constant flow of warm upwards causing ice to melt, run down and re freeze thus making the door difficult to open).

4. Unscrew the single her head screw holding the small metal piece to the right that retains the know upon which the outer door frame turns. Move the frame to the right to free it and work it out if the way. You now have access to the ice-maker door and hinge pin assy.