10650452901 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

easy,remove old parts installed new parts,icemaker started working properly.

Remove all items from door. Remove bolt holding plastic cover on top hinge. Support door and remove 3 bolts holding hinge. Lift door off lower hinge pin. Remove bolt holding both cam assy's and pry the one on the door out with the screwdriver. Replace both with the new cams, place door on lower hinge pin, place upper hinge pin into door, loosely insert the 3 bolts. Align the door, tighten the 3 bolts and replace plastic cap/bolt. Put the food back in the door and you're done. The only nut-driver needed is 5/16" and the screwdriver is only needed to pry out the cam that's located on the door itself.

Open freezer door and close flap on the left being sure not to block the infrared beam. If red light goes solid in a few seconds the Emitter receive and xmit boards are good. Unplugged fridge, Took the ice machine out took off the motor/controller cover and jumpered the two test points together with a short length of insulated wire. place the ice maker back on bracket to free up my hands and plugge in the fridge, turned ice maker on. Closed the flap and ensured red light was on solid and I was not blocking the beam... the motor control wheel did not turn slowly/cycle as it should have with the jumper inserted... Motor/controller assembly was bad. Pulled out icemaker and noticed some corrosion in the ice tray so ordered the entire ice maker instead of just the motor/control assembly... cost only about $30 more. New ice maker arrived and I installed, took about 10 hours before it got cold enough and began making ice.

pulled door off like video showed and undid the small bolts holding cams on and put new on. It was real easy. Thanks for youtube video

replace the emitter and receiver which is located on the left and right side of your freezer when you open the door. use a crosstip head screwdriver remove the 3 ea. screws on the emitter frame ,dothe same for the receiver. replace the electronic boards and reinstall.wait at least 30 minutes and listen for ice to drop in the ice bucket.

First I removed the top bracket cover screw with a 5/16" nut driver. placing it aside, I removed the three screws holding the top door hinge off using a 5/16" socket on a 1/4 drive to free the screws , then continued to remove them with the nut driver. placing them aside on top of the refrigerator. Then I lifted the door up and off the lower hinge and laid the door down on my kitchen counter. I removed the lower hinge piece from the lower bracket still on the fridge with a 5/16" nut driver and installed the new piece in its place and also applied a few dots of Vaseline on the lower hinge piece, I then removed the screw and lower bracket from the door and installed the new one and also applied some Vaseline on this piece also. I also took a rag that had been dipped in olive oil and rubbed the entire gasket surround the door to lubricate the gasket to keep it soft, then I reinstalled the door back onto its lower bracket, and then lined door back up correctly and reinstalled the top mounting bracket and screws then the cover, and then tested door. Door opens now with no noise and opens easier also.

Watched your video pull the door off switched parts and all done . Thanks to your web site it helped me diagnose and fix the problem

Installed two circuit boards which was very easy & within 30 minutes ice was being made

If you have to push your door to close it and it doesn't close on its own, this is your fix. These door cams are two plastic pieces on the bottom hinge, one on the door and one on the bracket that goes to the body, that engage like a gear with only a couple of teeth. They are supposed to have raised teeth that engage to ride the door to a closed position when it is nearly closed. They are plastic and are made to wear down. To change, empty the door, then at the top of the door (i.e., looking down from above) unscrew two bolts that go to the hinge. The door then lifts off the bottom bracket. Put the door on a soft surface and unscrew the bolt that holds this cam. You can re-use the bolt. There is another cam bolted to the bracket that stays attached to the fridge. Change both cams at the same time. Reverse the process to re-install the door. Your door will close like new for under $10, in maybe 15-30 minutes.

Read the reviews on how to test if part was bad. It was! Ordered new infered sensors and watched your repair video! 2 hours later the ice maker was making ice:) Very easy! Thanks David

Completely disconnected the power. Just shutting off the ice maker switch does not shut off the power to these boards. The emitter and Receiver boards are located in the side panels of the freezer-one on the right and the other on the left. Just remove the 3 screws in each cover and disconnect the wire connectors and install the new boards. It's very straight forward and easy to do.

Remove the door on the icemaker. Remove a screw on the bottom right of the icemaker and remove the bracket. push two small tabs on the bottom to release icemaker and slide out. unclip plugs that are on the wire. To reinstall just do the reverse.

I removed the top door hinge cover, removed the top hinge, pulled the refrigerator door off, layed it on the floor, removed the door cams, installed the new door cams, replaced the doo and top hinge and hinge cover. If you have this problem with your refrigerator door, be sure to replace the upper and lower cam.

removed the 3 screws from the receiver first, on hinge side with the flap The toughest part was twisting my arm around and upside down to plug the new board into the wire harness since it had very little slack and the wires were stiff from cold, the emitter on the opposite side was as easy, care needed to be taken with the upper screw partially hidden behind ice maker itself but it was an easy removal. Again, short wires and stiff from cold make alignment of the plug to the board just bit awkward to ensure it was seated properly. 15 mins later I heard the first emptying of the ice maker

Remove 3 screws on the emitter and 3 screws on the receiver. Removed the plugs and reinstalled the parts. Very simple and easy. Ice is flowing again.