10650446900 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I unscrewed the (3) screws on the bottom of the ice maker & the (1) screw on the electrical cover plate. I unplugged the ice maker & completely removed it from the freezer. Make sure to pay attention to the locking tabs or your maker will not come out. I took the bottom plate off the old ice maker & attached it to the new one, slid it in & re-plugged it. Tighten all screws back where they are to go & now I have ice. It was a breeze to do this job. Part was completely as described.

removed the 3 screws from the receiver first, on hinge side with the flap The toughest part was twisting my arm around and upside down to plug the new board into the wire harness since it had very little slack and the wires were stiff from cold, the emitter on the opposite side was as easy, care needed to be taken with the upper screw partially hidden behind ice maker itself but it was an easy removal. Again, short wires and stiff from cold make alignment of the plug to the board just bit awkward to ensure it was seated properly. 15 mins later I heard the first emptying of the ice maker

Remove 3 screws on the emitter and 3 screws on the receiver. Removed the plugs and reinstalled the parts. Very simple and easy. Ice is flowing again.

Open freezer door remove swinging door above icemaker for access to icemake and it simptly pulls out with some resistance ( no screws ) then you can unplug wire connecion remove old icemaker take new icemaker plug in connector slide in to bracket attached to icebox line up water outlet reinstall swinging door and wait for ice production. . . . . Easy breezy

Watched video then repaired very easy since I have extreme RA in my hands.

First I removed the top bracket cover screw with a 5/16" nut driver. placing it aside, I removed the three screws holding the top door hinge off using a 5/16" socket on a 1/4 drive to free the screws , then continued to remove them with the nut driver. placing them aside on top of the refrigerator. Then I lifted the door up and off the lower hinge and laid the door down on my kitchen counter. I removed the lower hinge piece from the lower bracket still on the fridge with a 5/16" nut driver and installed the new piece in its place and also applied a few dots of Vaseline on the lower hinge piece, I then removed the screw and lower bracket from the door and installed the new one and also applied some Vaseline on this piece also. I also took a rag that had been dipped in olive oil and rubbed the entire gasket surround the door to lubricate the gasket to keep it soft, then I reinstalled the door back onto its lower bracket, and then lined door back up correctly and reinstalled the top mounting bracket and screws then the cover, and then tested door. Door opens now with no noise and opens easier also.

Watched your video pull the door off switched parts and all done . Thanks to your web site it helped me diagnose and fix the problem

Parts Select has great videos that describe step-by-step how to perform the repair. I did a sloppy job of diagnosing the problem, and concluded it was the water valve. The actual problems was that the ice maker was not sending a signal to the valve to send water. I could have determined this if I had tested the ice maker using all of the connection points where a jumper wire could be inserted. The ice maker arrived on my doorstep exactly when promised, and was an easy ten-minute fix. My conclusion is that an average person CAN work on their own appliances with a company like PartsSelect to backstop them.

Installed two circuit boards which was very easy & within 30 minutes ice was being made

If you have to push your door to close it and it doesn't close on its own, this is your fix. These door cams are two plastic pieces on the bottom hinge, one on the door and one on the bracket that goes to the body, that engage like a gear with only a couple of teeth. They are supposed to have raised teeth that engage to ride the door to a closed position when it is nearly closed. They are plastic and are made to wear down. To change, empty the door, then at the top of the door (i.e., looking down from above) unscrew two bolts that go to the hinge. The door then lifts off the bottom bracket. Put the door on a soft surface and unscrew the bolt that holds this cam. You can re-use the bolt. There is another cam bolted to the bracket that stays attached to the fridge. Change both cams at the same time. Reverse the process to re-install the door. Your door will close like new for under $10, in maybe 15-30 minutes.

We replaced the ice maker with the help of the video, it was very helpful and it is working fine, thank you very much.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

After viewing the very clear video. Remove the ice maker door by first lifting the door and pressing in on the hinges. Remove the screw in the back lower right of ice maker with a one quarter inch nut driver and lift out the cover to expose the wiring harness. Pull the ice maker unit forward and out and reach behind it to pull out the wiring harness plug. The plug only comes out if you depress the small "push clip" in the center of the harness plug. Turn the old ice maker unit upside down and remove the three screws again with the one quarter inch nut driver to lift off the plastic cover. The wiring harness plug need to be pushed through the plastic housing to remove the plastic cover completely. Reinstall the plastic cover on the new ice maker. Reverse the procedure and install the new ice maker. This is really a simple repair if you watch the video.

Did exactly what the video showed . First I went through the test procedure to conferm my boards were bad . But ice maker didn't work after the control boards were replaced. I did some more research to find out what the problem now could be. I discovered where the water goes into the ice tray the line was frozen. Got the hair dryer out and melted the ice that had the water restricted. Been making ice every since. I tell everybody about (part select) web. Sight now

new filter cap fit perfectly, but I couldn't get filter in or out. Called appliance repair person who pushed it in -- no problem. I just didn't have enough arm force to push it in.