10644423600 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Got the main bolts off and unplugged and removed the ice maker. Had to remove all parts and rebuild it on the new mold. Was more complex than I thought but was able to get it done. Note where everything was as you take it off and you'll do fine.

Repair was so simple, I didn't even need instructions. Removed old fan with motor, installed new one, installed harness that converted plugs, done. Saved hundreds of dollars doing the repair myself.

I unscrewed the (3) screws on the bottom of the ice maker & the (1) screw on the electrical cover plate. I unplugged the ice maker & completely removed it from the freezer. Make sure to pay attention to the locking tabs or your maker will not come out. I took the bottom plate off the old ice maker & attached it to the new one, slid it in & re-plugged it. Tighten all screws back where they are to go & now I have ice. It was a breeze to do this job. Part was completely as described.

removed the 3 screws from the receiver first, on hinge side with the flap The toughest part was twisting my arm around and upside down to plug the new board into the wire harness since it had very little slack and the wires were stiff from cold, the emitter on the opposite side was as easy, care needed to be taken with the upper screw partially hidden behind ice maker itself but it was an easy removal. Again, short wires and stiff from cold make alignment of the plug to the board just bit awkward to ensure it was seated properly. 15 mins later I heard the first emptying of the ice maker

Remove 3 screws on the emitter and 3 screws on the receiver. Removed the plugs and reinstalled the parts. Very simple and easy. Ice is flowing again.

1. Cleared all the food items off the broken shelf. 2. Removed the old shelf. 3. Removed the new shelf from the shipping box. 4. Inserted the new shelf. 5. Replaced food items.

Open freezer door remove swinging door above icemaker for access to icemake and it simptly pulls out with some resistance ( no screws ) then you can unplug wire connecion remove old icemaker take new icemaker plug in connector slide in to bracket attached to icebox line up water outlet reinstall swinging door and wait for ice production. . . . . Easy breezy

Watched video then repaired very easy since I have extreme RA in my hands.

1. Remove the ice-maker/water dispenser cover plate located on the freezer door, by: inserting a putty knife blade at the bottom and freeing up the two retainer tabs; then pushing up. (note: be careful pulling the cover plate, there are many electrical connections on the back).

2. Note the electrical connections on the back of the cover plate and locate the connect close to the inside of the freezer door and disconnect it. (Note: this is much easier than pulling each wire off its connection point and then having to remember which color coded wire went where).

3. Carefully work the door hinge pin back out to the right and remove it and the hinge (Note: in my case the pin was already half way out so the old door couldn't close - and since this model door had a heater which came on because the door was misaligned there was constant flow of warm upwards causing ice to melt, run down and re freeze thus making the door difficult to open).

4. Unscrew the single her head screw holding the small metal piece to the right that retains the know upon which the outer door frame turns. Move the frame to the right to free it and work it out if the way. You now have access to the ice-maker door and hinge pin assy.

Ordered part and w/ help of a friend in it went.Devlivery was prompt. Receptionist on phone was great. If every company had one like her everyone would be a happy camper.Would recommend your company to anyone.It was a most pleasant experience.

Neither the OEM instructions nor any of the PartSelect videos explained BOTH ends of the tube for my particular appliance. All very thoroughly covered the obvious connection with the water valve from the wall. However, the push valve end for my KitchenAid is supposed to insert into the water filter chassis, which can barely be seen from the back of the appliance, much less reached with any tool. In order to make the repair, one must either remove the water filter chassis (which I attempted unsuccessfully), or put the appliance up on jacks in order to reach the push valve site.

Unplugged it for a day listened to the ice melting on the inside and plug it in again. Decreased the temperature settings and it now seems to work fine. I will save the part in case I ever need it in the future.

On the left side I unscrewed the screw and replace it with a new one . The right side in had to take s file and file of the rivet. You can use a rivet gun or a metal screw to replaced the clip. Once it is finish open the refrigerator door to see how to line the kick plate into the clip. A piece of cake.

The replacement was easy, especially after watching the install video. Saved over $200 by purchasing the part at PartSelect and doing the install myself. Will use PartSelect again in the future.

I did not have voltmeter to test for problem. Internet sites suggested the most common problem is the circuit boards--a sender and a receiver which detect when the ice bucket is full. I could only buy as a pair (about $94). I removed two screws of cover of receiving unit, detached the coupler, replaced the circuit board. Icemaker now works. The sender was obviously still good.