Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Old drawer - plastic cracked, and would not run along rails
First, imagine the frustration - I want an apple.... can barely open the drawer. Need carrots - the struggle. Celery? Wondering if I can do without..... the drawer's plastic has broken along where it slides along the guide rails, and it was a pain to open and close the drawer. First, as is my custom I went to Amazon, but couldn't find the part. There, however, I read a useful customer review that told me how to find the correct item, so I did that, input the part number into google, and VOILA - I got to this website. Excitedly, I input my credit card information and waited with eager anticipation (and a bit of trepidation - would it be the correct size?) for the drawer to arrive. A short time later, I found a large box at my front door. With joy, I took some scissors and opened the box, and then carefully used the scissors to cut the binding strap that was holding the protective cardboard wrap. My new drawer!! I gave it a quick clean, and then opened my fridge door all the way (this is an important step). I pulled out the old, broken drawer, and carefully inserted the new. It fit perfectly!! This took about 15 seconds. I then took those apples, carrots, and celery (and a pomegranate and some lettuce) from the old, broken drawer and placed them tenderly into the new drawer. I slid the drawer closed, and then shut the fridge door. Mission accomplished! Last step was to throw the old broken drawer into the garbage - this was a very simple process as well.
The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!
Removed the top bracket (3 5/16 size hexhead bolts) Lifted door free of the bottom cam and hinge socket (after, of course removing the items from the door shelves!) removed one bolt holding the lower came to the cabinet. Pried the cam loose, replaced with new and re-bolted removed one bolt from cam on door - unable to remove cam until I removed the guard bracket (two more bolts) worked the plastic cam from the door by twisting it and pulling the socket from it's hole. Slipped the new cam into the socket hole, aligned the bolt hole and bolted it tight. Aligned the top cam to the bottom cam as I replaced the door. Re-attached the top bracket. All bolts were 5/16 Door now works perfectly again.
Super-easy... First, empty refrigerator door. Then, just remove the bolt that goes through the cover over the top hinge. This exposes three more small bolts. Remove these and the top hinge assembly will lift off. Lift door off. Remove cam from door and lower hinge, slip new cams on, and reassemble. The hardest part was pulling all of the junk stuff out of the refrigerator door. Who know you could accumulate so much salad dressing?
Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced. reassembled the pieces.
I was first reluctant to start poking around, as I am limited in my handyman skills. However, not wanting to spend a lot of money, I decided to get my hands dirty. I quickly identifed the problem being the run capacitor and overload protector. I then identified the parts I needed to order using partselect.com and looked at user stories. I was confident this would work. Ordered the parts (YOU NEED TO ORDER TWO PARTS!) and began replacement. However, one of the prongs that the part connects to, broke in half. I was able to fashion a copper sheath to serve a conductor and to my amazement it worked. Had that hiccup not occurred, this would have been a mighty easy fix. Everything about this site helped and defintely gave me a "Tim the Toolman Taylor" boost of confidence.
Erratic refrigerator temperature. Generally too cold - frozen produce.
The repair video was a great help in this specific repair and matched my refrigerator model exactly. The only issue was an apparent design change in the thermostat that I received. The location of the electrical leads has changed. It might be worth mentioning this in the video. Polarity is not an issue in this case, but if it was, it would be worth noting in the video. So far the refrigerator has been operating normally.
Not cooling properly and had to tap the thermostat to get it to kick on.
My fridge was not cooling properly as I would have to tap the thermostat at times to get it to kick on again. Ordered the temperature control thermostat from this site t and watched video on how to install. Not hard at all and did it in under an hour. Fridge is working like new..
