Level of DifficultyDifficult
Time to do repairMore than 2 hours
Age of Appliance5 - 10 years
The ice cubes started to melt, the water ran down the ice chute and closed the fountain switch which is usually open untill a glass is pressed against it. This caused the ice door solenoid to overheat. It melted the front fountain case it was mounted in and also the plastic ice door mechanism lever was attached to. In fact it even pushed through and melted the back panel case into the styrine insulation. Then at some point, certain components on the fountain control board must have fried out (evidenced by blackening) effectively turning off the power to the melting solenoid and it probably stopped a fire from resulting.
I read somewhere on the internet that 90% of the time, all it takes to start a Gurger that quits is a whack to the temp control inside the fridge compartment. So I tried it and my fridge started right up. What a neat trick! It also said to get a new Cold Temp Control asap because once the contacts stick, they're going to continue to stick. I also ordered all the parts I needed for the fountain repair through PartSelect.com.
I kept my old Gurger running for 3 days by whacking the Cold Temp Control, but now realize that the practice should be classified as a qwick diagnoses method only and not a temporary fix because guess what's mounted right beside the Cold Temp Control under the panel case? Yes - you guessed it (but I didn't)! The fabled and much dreaded ADCB, or "Adaptive Defrost Control
After three days of getting whacked, the contacts in the relay mounted on the ADCB gave up the ghost.
After removing the ADCB, I shook it and the relay rattled loudly indicating it was shot. Jump wiring the Cold Temp Control at this point was useless. I should have jump wired the cold temp control to begin with, and pluged and unpluged my old gurger to keep it running while waiting for parts.
While diagnosing the ADCB (with the Cold Temp Control jumped, closed) I noticed I had power on both wires to all motors (circulation fan, evaporator fan, and compressor) which very effectively keeps them from running, and that's what led me to suspect the relay on the ADCB.
The hardest part to installing the Cold Temp Control and the ADCB is putting the large mounting panel back into the top inside of the fridge. Connecting the harness connectors and getting all the wires back in their routing positions while also fitting the temp probe through the hole in the side of the compartment and also the lead to the probe back into it's routing position so that everything fits before the panel can be reattached.
My old regurgertator has been running perfectly now since I put in the new controls, however the fountain control board is still back ordered. When I get it and reassemble, believe me, I will be using plenty of silicon caulking to shield that ice/water contact switch .... somthing somebody at Maytag should of thought of. And as long as they're thinking, why not put some mounting space between the Cold Temp Control and the ADCB so we can whack it in an emergency, and why not make both controls easily serviceable? I'll be looking for these things in the next Gurger I buy. Hope this helps with yours.