This lid lock, also known as a door lock, is a genuine OEM replacement part for your washing machine. The lid lock keeps your washer lid closed during the washing cycle. If this part is broken, your w...
$83.87
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This drain pump assembly is for washers. Drain pump assembly removes water from the washer during the drain portion of the cycle. The assembly may include multiple parts; refer to your parts diagram f...
$48.21
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This lid lock striker is sourced directly from the manufacturer for use in top-load washing machines. It is a white, plastic component located on the underside of the washing machine lid. When the lid...
This rod and spring assembly is designed to fit with washing machines and is made by the original manufacturer of your washer. It is a part of the washer suspension system that helps to stabilize and ...
$12.69
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This is a manufacturer-made suspension rod and spring assembly for your washing machine. This suspension rod is one of four suspension rods that make up the entirety of the inner suspension of your wa...
$13.43
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This drive belt is sourced from the original manufacturer for use in various models of dryers. It is a rubber belt that connects the motor to the transmission of the washer. It enables the drum to spi...
$14.60
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This auger is an authentic OEM replacement part specially designed for washing machines. It is a white, spiral-shaped agitator located in the center of the wash basket. During the wash cycle the auger...
$39.76
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This lid lock bezel, also known as a trim piece, is a genuine OEM part designed for washing machines. It is approximately 3.5 inches long. The bezel is a white, plastic frame that fits around the peri...
$8.54
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This is a clutch for your washing machine. The clutch is made of a white plastic material and is used within washing machines to engage and disengage the transmission during the wash and spin cycles, ...
$8.54
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This is a mode shifter or shift actuator for models of washing machine. Mode shifters are designed to change the function of the washing machine motor, between spinning cycles and agitation, and is us...
$39.40
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The agitator rotates back and forth to move the clothes inside the tub to clean the load.
$50.35
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Questions And Answers for GTW460ASJ0WW
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Wilf
February 3, 2020
Washer will not go into spin cycle
For model number GTW460ASJ0WW
Hello and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty or loose drive belt PS11736832 you should check the part(s) for signs of damage, and replace the part(s) as needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
Hi Virginia, thank you for reaching out. Based on our understanding of the issue, we suggest you check drain hoses for any blockage. You may need to check the pump drain assembly, part number PS12723115. We hope this helps!
Hello Deborah, Thank you for the question. In most cases this indicates the Water Valve is deflective and may need to be replaced. If the Valve is good, you may have a deflective Pressure Switch. The Switch is part of the Control Board, so the Board will need to be replaced. We hope this helps!
I had a repairman fix my lid lock a few weeks ago. He said was the issue. But the washer still doesn't want to start a cycle at times. It will work on speed wash. But not the other cycles. I hear a clicking noise and doesn't progress. I usually unplug it amd if I'm lucky it will run. I got a raw deal from the repairman. Please advise.
For model number GTW460ASJ0WW
Hello Denise, thank you for getting in touch. Based on our understanding of the issue, we would suggest checking the main control board, part number PS16874148, to solve the problem. Glad to be of assistance!
My washer is making a loud squeaking sound when washing during the cycle. Usually only does it when I load a heavier load. ( I don't really fill it too much though ) What can it be?
For model number GTW460ASJ0WW
Hello Esteban, Thank you for the question. We suggest checking the Hub Nut, Part #: PS8757009 and the Transmission Kit Part #: PS12299381 for wear or damage. We hope this helps.
Drain all the water out of the tub with a shop vac Remove rear drain hose and drained rest of water into a bucket Remove small rear panel (bottom left hand corner) where the drain hose connects Tipped washer up about 45 degrees to get underneath it - Supported it with a few paint cans Remove internal drain hose/clamps
... Read morefrom pump - w/ pliers Remove belt cover (gray plastic) with socket - 3 bolts Remove wire assembly plug from socket Remove old drain pump with socket - 3 bolts Install new drain pump - 3 bolts - plug wire assembly into socket Reinstall belt cover - 3 bolts Reinstall hose to drain pump (note panel will be inside washer) Feed drain hose panel through hole and reinstall - 1 nut Re attached drain hose to exterior drain plug You are done !
Very simple to repair. Be sure to drain the tub outside or into the sump pump then lay the washer on its side. The pump is right there on the bottom of the basket with 3 bolts. You will also need to remove the belt cover to get to the plug. So simple and saves you hundreds off repair man prices.
Turn off hot and cold water supply valves feeding washer. Disconnect both water hoses from washing machine. Remove two screws (one on each side) from upper silver colored metal plate on back of washer to allow access to (blue) water inlet valve. Slightly lift the bottom portion of metal plate and slide to release hooks for
... Read moreeasy removal. Pull back and tilt forward plastic control panel to get it out of your way. Disconnect two electrical connections (one on each side) of water inlet valve. One of these came off easily but the other one was stubborn and I had to force it off with a screw driver. If there is an easier way I don't know what it is. Remove two screws from water inlet valve. (one on each side) Gently pull up on stainless steel water temperature sensor located in the middle of the water inlet control valve. It has a black wire connected to it so be careful. Once you have disconnect the sensor you can remove the water inlet valve. If you look closely you will see a small blue O-ring in the hole where you removed the water temp sensor from the water inlet valve. The new valve DOES NOT come with a replacement O-ring so you will have to re-use the old one. I used a small jeweler's screwdriver to get the old out of the hole. Don't forget to install the O-ring or your washer WILL leak! Put everything back together in reverse order. Check hose connections for leaks. Hope this helps somebody. Wish I had known about the O-ring. It would have saved me a headache.