White-Westinghouse Washer Parts
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Popular White-Westinghouse Washer Parts
Your Price
$18.93
Drive V-Belt
PartSelect Number PS1146950
Manufacturer Part Number 134511600
This rubber V-style drive belt slips on the motor pulley to bring the basket to the required speed. If you notice a burning rubber smell or grinding noises coming from your washer, your washer does not start, drain, spin properly (will not spin/spins slowly/will not agitate properly), or if your washer shakes or moves during the cycle; check your drive belt for signs of wear and tear. Replace the drive belt if you notice that the belt looks damaged. This OEM part is approximately 35 inches in length, and sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Noisy
- Pumps but will not spin
- See more...
Installation Instructions
rodney from fairfield bay, AR
replace broken drive belt
carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.
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Your Price
$34.00
Water Inlet Valve
PartSelect Number PS815509
Manufacturer Part Number 134190200
The water inlet valve has two ports for water to enter and controls the flow of water into a washing machine. Hot, cold, and warm water can easily enter the washer this way. If the water inlet valve is in any way damaged or defective, it may be slow to fill or even leak. Before beginning this replacement, make sure to unplug the washer from the power range or shut off the house circuit breaker. Remember to wear gloves for safety. Refer to the installation instructions and the diagram provided by the manufacturer for best results and accuracy.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- No hot or cold water
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
alvaro from east hampton, NY
Washer Continued To Fill To Point Of Overflow
First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and removed the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel.
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Your Price
$116.32
Drain Pump - 120V 60 Hz.
PartSelect Number PS7783938
Manufacturer Part Number 137221600
This is a 120 volt, 60 hertz drain pump that is manufactured to remove water from the tub of your washer once your clothes are washed. This part is the pump and motor assembly, which includes a red flapper to prevent drain backflow. You will need to remove the front panel of your washer to access the drain pump. The tools you will need for the repair are a Phillips screw driver, a putty knife, a pair of slip joint pliers, and a 5/16 nut driver. Be sure to disconnect the water supply from your washer before doing the repair. The metal edges on the appliance are sharp, so use work gloves to safely complete the repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Noisy
- Not draining
- See more...
Installation Instructions
kenneth from willard, OH
would't spin all water out or rinse out clothes
uplugged washer took front off washer 2 screws pryed up top pump was mounted with 2 screws and 2 wires took off found change in pump and the fins to pump worn off ordered part off line the wait for part was longer than the amount of time to fix problem and cost of part saved me about $25-35 if I was to buy local worth wait save money and fix problem washes like new spins and drains all water from tub.
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Your Price
$15.41
Door Strike
PartSelect Number PS890617
Manufacturer Part Number 131763310
The door strike on your washing machine allows your washer door to lock properly, and operate efficiently. If you notice that your washer door will not open or close, leaks or the washer will not start or spin, you may need to replace the door strike. This part is for front load washers and is white in color. The part is made of plastic and is roughly 2 inches in length. To complete this repair, you will only need a Phillips screwdriver. Most of our customers found this repair to be easy and took less than 15 minutes to complete it. This part is sold individually, not as a part of a kit, and is a genuine part approved by the original manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Door latch failure
- Door won’t close
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Joy from Columbia, MO
Broken Door Catch
This was one of the simpliest repairs I have ever done taking less than 5 minutes to complete. On the inner door I removed the two screws that hold the plastic catch in place. I then removed the broken catch and put the new catch in place. Finally I replaced the two screws that hold the catch in place and it was done.
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Your Price
$85.54
Front Load Washer Door Lock and Switch Assembly
2. Unscrew 2 nuts holding top in place in rear of unit using phillips head screwdriver.
3.Slide top back and remove.
4. Open door of washer and unscrew 2 screws holding in door lock unit.
5.Pull out unit from the top and install new unit reconnecting the 3 wire connections. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS12364048
Manufacturer Part Number 131763256
This door lock and switch assembly is manufactured to lock the door on your front load washer to prevent it from opening while it is running. You may need to replace the door lock and switch if the door does not open or lock. Your washer will not start if the door does not lock. This part is also known as a washing machine door lock assembly. As per the manufacturer, some models require a new wire harness and a door strike for this door lock assembly to work on the appliance. The original style lock would require the door lock kit.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Lid or door will not open
- Lid or door won’t close
- See more...
Installation Instructions
DOUG from KING FERRY, NY
Door on washer wouldn't lock or start
1. Unplug unit.2. Unscrew 2 nuts holding top in place in rear of unit using phillips head screwdriver.
3.Slide top back and remove.
4. Open door of washer and unscrew 2 screws holding in door lock unit.
5.Pull out unit from the top and install new unit reconnecting the 3 wire connections. Read more...
Your Price
$17.19
Selector Knob
1. Removed the cover from the back of the dryer (held in place via two phillip head screws)
2. Pushed down on the idler assy and removed the idler spring to release the drum belt.
3. Inserted flat tip screwdriver between the top panel and the dryer main body in the front of the dryer to pry the top loose from the two retaining clips.
4. used phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws (one left, one right) that hold the front panel to the main body of the dryer. (about a foot down from the top of the dryer).
5. disconnected the wiring plug on the top right hand side at the top of the dryer.
6. lifted the front panel slightly removing it from the main body and placed it to the side.
7. lifted the rear of the drum to release it from the bearing bracket and removed the drum belt.
8. Pulled the drum through the front of the dryer body and moved it to an open work area.
9. Reached into the Dryer and loosened the two
bearing bracket screws with a nut driver. Here's where another pair of hands would have come in handy. Holding the ground bar on the back of the drum with on hand, reached into the dryer and finished removing the bracket screws somehow managing not to drop the tiny grounding ball (size of a BB) Removed the badly damaged plastic bracket, grounding bar, and grounding ball and set
them aside to be discarded later.
10. Used impact driver with phillips attachment to remove two of the three screws that hold the bearing to the back of the drum (these are on the inside) The third screw's head stripped out and I had a very difficult time removing it. Had it not been for that, the job would have taken less than an hour.
11. I had my wife hold the bearing in place while I started the three retaining screws.
12. My wife also got behing the dryer and held the grounding bar in place while I installed the new bearing bracket . (this kept me from loosing the grounding ball)
I just reversed the rest of the procedures to install the drum belt, drum, front panel, etc.
The dryer works like new now, doesn't squeal.
Also replaced the on/off switch knob (just pulled the old one from the stem and slid the new one on. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS2330885
Manufacturer Part Number 134844410
This selector knob, also be known as the laundry appliance control knob, is meant for your washer or dryer. This model is sold individually and takes a D-shaped shaft. The purpose of this part is to attach to the shaft of a rotary or starter switch, which is located on the control panel. To install this part, remove your old selector by grabbing it with a firm grip and pulling it straight off. If the metal insert came off with the old part, pull it off as well, making sure the new knob will have enough room to snap in its place. No tools are required to make this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Timer will not advance
- Touchpad does not respond
- Will Not Start
- See more...
Installation Instructions
charles from new holland, OH
Dryer squealed like a pig and at times the drum stopped rotating
First thought the problem was a stretched drum belt or bad idler pulley. Ordered a new belt and idler assy plus spring. Replaced those items with relative ease following suggestions obtained at this site.However, problem persisted and I now suspected a bad drum bearing. Odered the bearing kit and replaced same using the following procedure.1. Removed the cover from the back of the dryer (held in place via two phillip head screws)
2. Pushed down on the idler assy and removed the idler spring to release the drum belt.
3. Inserted flat tip screwdriver between the top panel and the dryer main body in the front of the dryer to pry the top loose from the two retaining clips.
4. used phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws (one left, one right) that hold the front panel to the main body of the dryer. (about a foot down from the top of the dryer).
5. disconnected the wiring plug on the top right hand side at the top of the dryer.
6. lifted the front panel slightly removing it from the main body and placed it to the side.
7. lifted the rear of the drum to release it from the bearing bracket and removed the drum belt.
8. Pulled the drum through the front of the dryer body and moved it to an open work area.
9. Reached into the Dryer and loosened the two
bearing bracket screws with a nut driver. Here's where another pair of hands would have come in handy. Holding the ground bar on the back of the drum with on hand, reached into the dryer and finished removing the bracket screws somehow managing not to drop the tiny grounding ball (size of a BB) Removed the badly damaged plastic bracket, grounding bar, and grounding ball and set
them aside to be discarded later.
10. Used impact driver with phillips attachment to remove two of the three screws that hold the bearing to the back of the drum (these are on the inside) The third screw's head stripped out and I had a very difficult time removing it. Had it not been for that, the job would have taken less than an hour.
11. I had my wife hold the bearing in place while I started the three retaining screws.
12. My wife also got behing the dryer and held the grounding bar in place while I installed the new bearing bracket . (this kept me from loosing the grounding ball)
I just reversed the rest of the procedures to install the drum belt, drum, front panel, etc.
The dryer works like new now, doesn't squeal.
Also replaced the on/off switch knob (just pulled the old one from the stem and slid the new one on. Read more...
Your Price
$45.33
Tub Seal Assembly
2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS459481
Manufacturer Part Number 5303279394
If you have a leaky washer, then your tub seal may be the culprit. The tub seal assembly may also be known as the washer tub seal, and is a part for your washer. The function of this piece is to make sure water does not lead from between the outer tub and the spin basket from around your basket drive shaft within your washer. To replace your old part with this one you will need a flathead screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver, pliers, putty knife, 7/16 socket, spanner wrench, and a hammer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Rick from Walkerton, IN
The primary problem was that the tub seal assembly was leaking.
1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy. Read more...
Your Price
$20.08
Tension Idler Pulley
2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS418897
Manufacturer Part Number 131862900
The idler pulley on your washing machine allows the drive belt to operate smoothly. If your washer is not spinning or agitating, makes too much noise, or you notice a burning smell when it is operating, you might need to replace the tension idler pulley. The tension idler pulley works in conjunction with the drive belt, so you might need to replace the belt as well as the pulley. Once the old pulley has been removed from the washer, you will need to transfer the spring and bushing from the old pulley to the new one before re-attaching it to the washer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Noisy
- Pumps but will not spin
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Rick from Walkerton, IN
The primary problem was that the tub seal assembly was leaking.
1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy. Read more...
Your Price
$36.65
Control Knob
PartSelect Number PS418888
Manufacturer Part Number 131858004
Sold individually. This white knob accepts a D-shaped shaft.
Fixes these symptoms
- Timer will not advance
- Touchpad does not respond
- Will Not Start
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Zackary from Fort Collins, CO
Your Price
$58.34
Shock Absorber Kit
PartSelect Number PS3508101
Manufacturer Part Number 5304485917
This shock absorber kit is an authentic OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The kit includes two dual-stage shock absorbers, one spare shock mounting pin, and four locking nuts. These shock absorbers keep your front-load washer from shaking vigorously by absorbing and reducing vibrations from the wash and spin cycles of your appliance. This kit comes with two shock absorbers because it is recommended to replace both at the same time, as they wear at the same rate. To access your washer shock absorbers, simply remove the lower access panel after disconnecting the power to the appliance.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Noisy
- Pumps but will not spin
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Douglas from Medical Lake, WA
Both vibration shock absorbers broken
removed 2 screws and removed top access cover. removed 2 screws and removed front access cover. removed 4 retaining pins (one with nammer and punch because it was stuck) connected lower ends of new shocks with plastic pins, extended each shock to slip fit and connected upper ends to wash tub mounts. Reinstalled panels. I wish I could say that it all went well from there but......when the shocks broke, apparently the hit the motor took was enough to cause an electronic failure of the speed cycle control chip. Now Im waiting for that part.
Read more...
Appliance Type
Related Parts
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- Westinghouse Washer Switches
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