Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing reviews that matched. Try using some different or simpler keywords.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Beverly A - August 15, 2019
Verified Purchase
Great!
Dryer belt
★★★★★
★★★★★
Angelica V - May 10, 2019
Verified Purchase
Work as expected good
The part was the right one recommend
★★★★★
★★★★★
Seth H - November 17, 2018
Verified Purchase
The Right Part
PartSelect made it easy to diagnose and find the part that i needed. Thanks so much!
< Prev
1
Next >
Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.8 / 5.0, 7 reviews.
What's this?
Sort by:
< Prev
1
Next >
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Rear bearing was broke
I like to fix , i have time and i just give me the chance to try , and i did it , i wish to pay less for the parts , but was a good feeling when the problem fixed
Two tips after you watch the videos (and video link)
Watch the videos for replacing the belt. The one by Kenmore is the most accurate even though it isn't GE -- the mechanisms are the same. Here is the link to the one I found most helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2wTmfurT5o
First: You don't need to pull the washer/dryer out at all. Leave it in place. You can put the
... Read morebelt around the drive shaft and get the tension pully in place by feel and inspect your work with a flasklight,
Second: There is absolutely no reason to spend $70 on a rubber belt. Other places sell it as cheaply as 10 dollars. Shop around -- the actual part is not at all impressive and should not be priced this high.
Read less
David from WASHINGTON, DC
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers
4 of 4 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer was not working.
Removed front and top panals to dryer. Installed belt over the drum. opened back air vent panal and installed belt to pully. Reinstalled back top and front panals. Done.
Frank from Rochester, NY
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
9 of 13 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer sounded like a stuck pig
I ordered the rear bearing kit from the local supplier here in Marsh Harbour, Abaco the Bahamas. Delivery for the kit was 3 to 4 weeks from my local supplier.NOT PARTSELECT. While waiting I found this site and after reading the VERY helpful instructions from your customers, I realised that I would probably need additional parts, top
... Read moreand bottom front felt seals, maybe a new drive belt. I ordered these online and had the parts deliverd to a friends address in West Palm Beach Florida. The parts arrived in about 2 days. My wife was already there and brought the parts back.
Installation was very straight forward. Read the other installation reports and you will not have a problem. The only thing I can add is, DO NOT LOOSE THE SMALL BALL BEARING. I did and it took me about an hour to find it. My suggestion is to do a dry run installation of the bracket WITH OUT the small ball bearing. Tape the backing plate?that keeps the ball breaing inplace to the outside of the back panel with duct tape so that the screw hole will line up. Once this is done put some grease (Supplied with the kit) in the hole on the nylon bracket and attach with the two screws, do not over tighten. Grease up the area where the rear bearing shaft support will sit.
Installation of the rear bearing shaft support was straight forward. This is on the dryer drum. Extra hands are must for this.
I was very pleased with Partselct. Dryer works like new.
About a year ago I had to replace the front sliders. I had thought at the time that I should replace the belt and check the rear bearing, but I was in a hurry, and the wash was backing up, so I didn't do it. Oops. Within 6 months dryer started squeaking. Did I get around to pulling it out, and greasing rear bearing. Nope. Dbl oops.
... Read morer /> Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.
Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.
So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.
Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)
Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.
Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.
Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.
Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.
OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...
Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem
1. Remove power cord from wall outlet. Unlatched the top lid of the dryer by pushing a flat screwdriver under the R & L sides where a metal clip on each side holds the top down. 2. Removed the yellow clip screwed onto the top frame. 3. Removed the front frame of the dryer by unscrewing the two screws holding the front frame on
... Read more – one on either side. 4. Mark w/ an (x) on same side of alignment for the 2 wiring connectors before separating them. 5. Removed the front panel by tilting it forward & lifted to unlatch it from the 2 clips at the bottom of dryer. 6. Unwound the belt encircling the drum by releasing the tension between the tensioner roller & drive pulley. (Its better to remove back access panel at this time & do this at the back since I found it necessary to do this anyway when re-installing the new belt). 7. W/ lifting motion, pulled the drum out from the plastic holder attached to the back of the dryer frame. Guided & completely removed the drum out of the dryer. 8. Unscrewed the 3 screws holding the old big bearing to the back of the drum. 8. Unscrewed the 2 screws & removed the plastic that had held the bearing at back of the frame. 8. Installed the new bearing by screwing it to the back of the drum with 3 screws. Be careful not to strip screws. Used help to hold new bearing in place & aligned w/ screws. 9. From the front, installed the plastic holder to the back of the frame by 2 screws and put the ball bearing in-between holder & the metal strip retainer coming from the back of dryer. 10. Used the grease that came with the kit on the plastic holder & the big bearing at the back of the drum. 11. Replaced w/ new belt then re-inserted the drum back into the body of the dryer frame, w/ lifting motion, re-inserted the bearing into the plastic holder. 12. Putting the belt into the drive & tension pulleys through the back access panel was easy but could be very hard to do if coming from the front. 13. Had to replace the front panel's top felt w/ glides that holds the drum at the front w/ a new one. Really important to pay attention to where the plastic glides excess portion is facing (towards front panel), otherwise the front panel might not fit when you snap it back to place. 14. Removed old felt remnants w/ blade scraper & sandpaper. Used adhesive that came w/ kit. Once tacky, put the new felt w/ glides on & used clamps to hold it in place. 15. Waited for 2 hrs. (watched a movie) then re-installed front panel. Make sure that the drum (front) lid rides on top of the plastic glides. 16. Latched bottom of front panel to the metal clips. Replace the 2 screws back into place holding the front panel. 17. Snapped the wiring connectors in place where the (x) marks align. 18. Lowered the top panel & snapped it back into place Note: All parts came w/ fast delivery & OEM fit - very satisfied! Took my time & on every chance I cleaned & vacuumed all areas of lint & dirt since the dryer hasn't been serviced for more than 10 years...
Most time was spent on web looking for disassembly diagrams! But once I got it apart it was good. And I saved about $27.00 buying from this site! Putting together was easy, clamping down felt with glue on it so it would dry right and then putting front on with drum riding on the glid was the hardest. I also put synthetic grease on rear be
... Read morearing. Fired it up after repair and my wife is back dring clothes again! Products were at my door 3 days after ordering at 11:30 pm at night!
Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
3 questions answered by our experts.
Sort by:
< Prev
1
Next >
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Jared
December 3, 2017
My drier when it gets hot there is a sound kind of like the drum is scraping, I can give the back of the drier a hit and it goes away. Second, there is a loud squeal for the other sound. I do not know if the sounds are related in any form or if they are two different issues what do you think
For model number NVL333GY0WW
Hi Jared, Thank you for the question. There are a few parts you can check. You can see if the Top Drum Glide Kit, Part Number: PS264864 and the Lower Felt Seal, Part Number: PS268338 on the front of the drum are wore out and need to be replaced. Most cases this is the source of the squealing. The rubbing metal sounds would be coming from the Rear Bearing,PartSelect Number PS267556. Hope this helps!
3 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Afsar
May 1, 2018
My drier makes a clicking sound and then quits. Does it need a new belt? Is there a way to tell if the motor has failed? Thanks.
For model number DSXH43GV0WW
Hi Afsar,
Thank you for your question. If the dryer is not working correctly, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which ones are causing the issue. You will need to check the belt, the timer and the start switch. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oscar
August 23, 2022
Dryer belt keeps falling off, had it put back on twice, not sure if I need a new belt or something else?
For model number WSM2700DAWWW
Hello Oscar, thank you for your question. We have researched your model number and found that dryer belts slip if they are worn and stretched or if they are the wrong size. We recommend replacing it with compatible belt part number PS959964. Customer service is available 7 days a week if you require assistance placing an order. Glad to be of help!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
< Prev
1
Next >
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.
