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Drum Belt Specifications
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Replacing your General Electric Dryer Drum Belt
2. Removed the yellow clip screwed onto the top frame.
3. Removed the front frame of the dryer by unscrewing the two screws holding the front frame on – one on either side.
4. Mark w/ an (x) on same side of alignment for the 2 wiring connectors before separating them.
5. Removed the front panel by tilting it forward & lifted to unlatch it from the 2 clips at the bottom of dryer.
6. Unwound the belt encircling the drum by releasing the tension between the tensioner roller & drive pulley. (Its better to remove back access panel at this time & do this at the back since I found it necessary to do this anyway when re-installing the new belt).
7. W/ lifting motion, pulled the drum out from the plastic holder attached to the back of the dryer frame. Guided & completely removed the drum out of the dryer.
8. Unscrewed the 3 screws holding the old big bearing to the back of the drum.
8. Unscrewed the 2 screws & removed the plastic that had held the bearing at back of the frame.
8. Installed the new bearing by screwing it to the back of the drum with 3 screws. Be careful not to strip screws. Used help to hold new bearing in place & aligned w/ screws.
9. From the front, installed the plastic holder to the back of the frame by 2 screws and put the ball bearing in-between holder & the metal strip retainer coming from the back of dryer.
10. Used the grease that came with the kit on the plastic holder & the big bearing at the back of the drum.
11. Replaced w/ new belt then re-inserted the drum back into the body of the dryer frame, w/ lifting motion, re-inserted the bearing into the plastic holder.
12. Putting the belt into the drive & tension pulleys through the back access panel was easy but could be very hard to do if coming from the front.
13. Had to replace the front panel's top felt w/ glides that holds the drum at the front w/ a new one. Really important to pay attention to where the plastic glides excess portion is facing (towards front panel), otherwise the front panel might not fit when you snap it back to place.
14. Removed old felt remnants w/ blade scraper & sandpaper. Used adhesive that came w/ kit. Once tacky, put the new felt w/ glides on & used clamps to hold it in place.
15. Waited for 2 hrs. (watched a movie) then re-installed front panel. Make sure that the drum (front) lid rides on top of the plastic glides.
16. Latched bottom of front panel to the metal clips. Replace the 2 screws back into place holding the front panel.
17. Snapped the wiring connectors in place where the (x) marks align.
18. Lowered the top panel & snapped it back into place
Note: All parts came w/ fast delivery & OEM fit - very satisfied! Took my time & on every chance I cleaned & vacuumed all areas of lint & dirt since the dryer hasn't been serviced for more than 10 years...
Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.
Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.
So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.
Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)
Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.
Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.
Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.
Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.
OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...
Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem
Frank from Rochester, NY
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
While waiting I found this site and after reading the VERY helpful instructions from your customers, I realised that I would probably need additional parts, top and bottom front felt seals, maybe a new drive belt.
I ordered these online and had the parts deliverd to a friends address in West Palm Beach Florida. The parts arrived in about 2 days. My wife was already there and brought the parts back.
Installation was very straight forward. Read the other installation reports and you will not have a problem.
The only thing I can add is, DO NOT LOOSE THE SMALL BALL BEARING. I did and it took me about an hour to find it.
My suggestion is to do a dry run installation of the bracket WITH OUT the small ball bearing. Tape the backing plate?that keeps the ball breaing inplace to the outside of the back panel with duct tape so that the screw hole will line up. Once this is done put some grease (Supplied with the kit) in the hole on the nylon bracket and attach with the two screws, do not over tighten. Grease up the area where the rear bearing shaft support will sit.
Installation of the rear bearing shaft support was straight forward. This is on the dryer drum. Extra hands are must for this.
I was very pleased with Partselct.
Dryer works like new.
First: You don't need to pull the washer/dryer out at all. Leave it in place. You can put the belt around the drive shaft and get the tension pully in place by feel and inspect your work with a flasklight,
Second: There is absolutely no reason to spend $70 on a rubber belt. Other places sell it as cheaply as 10 dollars. Shop around -- the actual part is not at all impressive and should not be priced this high.
David from WASHINGTON, DC
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
Manufacturer Part Number: WE12X10009
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