Part Location Diagram of 5303918202 Frigidaire Defrost Thermostat
See part F21 in the diagram
Replacing your Frigidaire Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat
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Defrost Thermostat 5303918202

 Fits your WRT5B1EW4!
★★★★★
★★★★★
18 Reviews

Rated by 26 customers 

Really Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.

$ 32.86
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PartSelect Number PS469510
Manufacturer Part Number 5303918202
Manufactured by Frigidaire for Frigidaire, Kenmore, Crosley, Westinghouse
Product Description

Defrost Thermostat Specifications

This defrost thermostat is also known as a refrigerator defrost bi-metal thermostat kit. The function of the defrost bi-metal thermostat is to prevent overheating during the defrost cycle in your refrigerator by protecting the evaporator. The most common sign that there is a problem with your refrigerator defrost thermostat kit is if your freezer is cold but your refrigerator is warm. If your evaporator coils are icy then your defrost bi-metal thermostat kit could be defective. To do this installation the tools you will need include a 1/4 inch nut driver, a pair of wire strippers and crimpers, and a heat gun.
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Replacing your Frigidaire Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat

Replacing your Frigidaire Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Fridge too warm | Freezer not defrosting | Freezer section too warm | Frost buildup
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator.
Part# 5303918202 replaces these:
AP2150133, 833603, 241619705, 5303918202
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Customer Reviews
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18 Reviews
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 26 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Freezer compartment works but gets frost and ice buildup. Then the refrigerator compartment fails to get cold. Milk would spoil but freezer stayed frozen.
After watching numerous YouTube videos I realized that my problem was either the timer or the thermostat. I purchased both for above $70 total and decided it was worth the gamble to self- repair it instead of buying a new refrigerator for $700 plus taxes and delivery charges. The videos were right on with excellent directions for replacing these 2 products. Only has one problem… the shrink wrap that came with the thermostat is very thick and will NOT shrink with a hairdryer. I hade to run to ACE Hardware to buy a heat gun and more shrink wrap
Other Parts Used:
Defrost Thermostat Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz
  • Tracy from SALOME, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Freezer was not defrosting
Turned off fridge circuit breaker
Removed all food from freezer and put in cooler.
Removed shelves from freezer
Removed ice maker
Removed 2 hex head screws
Tilted back evaporator cover and tried to unplug connection.
Found connection was iced over with a huge block of ice coming from water inlet to ice maker<br />Spent several hours trying to melt and chip away ice without damaging fridge.
Finally was able to break up ice with long flat head screwdriver and hammer.
Unplugged connector and was able to remove evaporator cover.
Cut wires near thermostat and removed
Stripped wire as needed and crimped new thermostat in place.
Used heat gun and lighter to melt heat shrink. This took a long time and required a lot more heat than expected.
Reconnected evaporator cover connection and reattached cover.
Reinstalled ice maker
Reinstalled shelves.
Put food back in
Turned circuit breaker back on.
  • David from N KINGSTOWN, RI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Top cools bottom is weak
Unplug, remove 2 screws off back panel inside the freezer. Cut wires on old one and crimped in new one. Light to melt the shrink wrap that came with it. Pretty easy.
  • JUSTIN from NEW BRAUNFELS, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigerator evaporator coil was icing up
The evaporator coil is behind the freezer. Remove the rack that makes the shelf and remove two 1/4” hex head screws I the back of the freezer to access the coil.
I used a hair dryer to melt the ice off the coil.
The thermostat clips on the refrigeration pipe to the coil. Remove the old thermostat and cut the wires at least a few inches from the thermostat. Clip the new thermostat on the pipe and strip about a 1/4” of the wire ends. The electrical connectors (provided with the new part) must be crimped to connect the wires.
  • David from VENICE, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Freezer seemed ok, though frosty, but the bottom section was not cold enough, and the compressor seemed to run constantly.
The lower compartment was hovering around 50 degrees. Logic told me that cold air was not being driven from the freezer to the lower compartment. At first, I found the passageway between freezer and lower compartment was blocked with frost/ice, which could have been the entire problem. But why was that ice accumulated there? After defrosting, the problem was only partly solved. A few how-to videos suggested that the defrost timer was a common problem, so I tried that, the part was about $11, with minimal improvement. So I concluded that the fan was not driving cold air from the freezer to the lower section. I tested the fan by removing the freezer back panel completely, wiring the fan to an old ordinary power cord, and plugging that in to a wall outlet. The fan would not start on its own, would only turn if I gave it a spin, and then was very weak - I could stop it with a finger without pain! When my new fan arrived, I again removed the back panel in the freezer and replaced the fan, just a few screws to remove, then swap the fan blade to the new fan motor. The process was simple and obvious. Now the lower section stays near 40 degrees, though I'm not convinced that's the only problem-there seems to be a lot of variation in the temperature. BTW, I had also confirmed the defrost heating element was functional by activating the defrost timer (see youtube), to eliminate that from the diagnosis.
Other Parts Used:
Evaporator Fan Motor Defrost Thermostat
  • Gary from GRASS VALLEY, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
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The refrigerator wasn't getting cold the freezer was getting to cold
Followed the installation instruction for both parts now both the freezer and refrigerator are getting cold
Other Parts Used:
Defrost Thermostat Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • eddie from CHICAGO, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Freezer was frosting up and refrigerator was not getting cold.
All 3 parts were very easy to replace. Thawing out the freezer took the most time. Great videos that go with each part for installation. I will be purchasing again from this company when needed.
Other Parts Used:
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit - 120V 60Hz Defrost Thermostat Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • Curt from MULBERRY, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Freezer froze up/ Fridge ran warm
Thawed out freezer, I recommend laying a couple old towels in freezer to soak up melted ice. Replaced old thermostat with new part. Removed 2 screws, removed back plate, unplugged 2 connectors and cut 2 wires. Crimped in new thermostat and repositioned to original part location. Reconnected plugs as I reinstalled back plate. Installed 2 screws and connected power. Works like new! Trouble shooting and part installation video is very helpful, great site!
  • will from bushnell, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigerator not working, freezer working
I initially replaced the defrost timer, and later replaced it and the defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat was the faulty component
Other Parts Used:
Defrost Thermostat Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • Stephen from VAN WERT, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigerator and freezer running to warm.
I watched the video on how to change the defrost thermostat. I removed the back cover inside the freezer then I pulled off the old defrost thermostat and then using a pair of wire cutters I cut it off and then bared a little of both of the wires and then slid the heat sherink and wire connectors on the existing wires and then slid the other ends of the wires into the wire connectors then crimped the ends of the connectors and then tried using heat on the heat shrinks but still used rubber electric tape over it. I clipped the new thermostat were the old one was and then reattached the freezer wall cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. 24 hours later I checked the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer and both are running a lot colder.
  • Nathan from WELLS, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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Jack
July 22, 2017
No heat gun. What about a propane torch? (defrost thermostat)
For model number FRT21KS5AQ1
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Hi Jack, thank you for the interesting question. A heat gun would be the safest route to shrink wrap your wires together. However you can also use a hair dryer, if a heat gun is unavailable to you. I hope this helps.

23 people found this helpful.

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Frank
September 19, 2017
How do you test defrost thermostat
For model number GLRT183TDW8
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Hi Frank, Thank you for the question, The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the thermostat should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermostat submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!

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TJ
December 19, 2017
My fridge and freezer are running warm. I checked the evap. And compressor fan. I cleaned the coils and i checked the thermostat in the fridge. All these things check out. My last thing to check is the defrost thermostat. However, when i remove the panel in the freezer there is no ice build up. Is it possible that it is still defective but in a way that makes it turn on too often?
For model number LFTR1814LW8
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Hello TJ, Thank you for your inquiry. Yes it can, and you should also check the defrost heater and timer as well. Hope this helps!

5 people found this helpful.

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Dale
December 28, 2017
Where is the defrost timer located my freezer and refrigerator area are warm, i unplugged it for a day and plunged it back in and the freezer got do to 0 deg. The unit sits in a garage around 45 degrees. Do not know if it is the timer or the defrost thermostat?
For model number FFTR1814LW9
PartSelect logo
Hi Dale, Thank you for your question. The defrost timer is locacted in the control box where the light switch and air diffuser are. If the refrigerator and the freezer are too warm, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the defrost timer, the door gasket, the run capacitor, the condenser fan motor, the temperature control thermostat, the starter-ptc, and the defrost timer. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Adel
September 27, 2017
Where is the defrost thermostate is located
For model number 253.6580250A
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Hi Adel, Thank you for your inquiry. There is a video on lour website that you can reference on both how to install the part and where the part is located. The video is listed just under the information on the part on our website. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Denny
September 4, 2019
Water is leaking on the inside of the fridge and staying on the top shelf where it freezes. I don't know where it is coming from.
For model number FRT17G5CSBO
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Hello Denny, thank you for your question. We would recommend checking the drain tube at the back of the freezer to be sure it isn't clogged. The back wall would have to be removed and inspected. You might want to check that area for any excess frost or ice buildup which could be caused by a bad thermostat, heater or evaporator motor. I hope this helps!

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Georgia
August 28, 2019
My refrigerator intermittently goes off and on. I replaced the thermostat control and when it failed again a few months later, i replaced the defrost timer. It's worked fine again for 3 months and it went off for a couple of hours yesterday and then back on again by itself. What parts would fail intermittently and what do you recommend that i do.
For model number Electrolux/Frigidaire refrigerator P/N 24516600. Model # FRT 18 IS 6CW? (the last number was rubbed
PartSelect logo
Hello Georgia, thank you for inquiring. This could be due to a faulty Run Capacitor or Compressor Start Relay, but the model number you provided in partial with multiple variations using some different parts. We will need the rest of the model number to determine which parts list to use. There should be one last number or letter after the FRT18IS6CW that you have provided. We look forward to hearing back from you!

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Jeff
September 26, 2019
Hi, i was wondering how long the freezer compressor should continue running before it stops and the defrost heater comes on. I think i read around 8 hours somewhere. My freezer coils start to ice up long before that. Also, how long will the defrost cycle last?Thanks!
For model number FRT17G4BWD
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Good Day Jeff. Thank you for your question in regards to your unit (Model Number FRT17G4BWD). Based on our research the defrost cycle should take approximately 20 to 30 minutes. When it comes to the freezer compressor, our research into this suggests that it should run 45 minutes per hour. Hope this helps. Best Regards.

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Laraine
April 26, 2018
My refrigerator isn’t cooling like it suppose to and freezer isn’t cooling like it suppose too my freezer has ice built up in it i replaced defrost timer it hasn’t fixed it what else could it be?
For model number Frt8g7hw0
PartSelect logo
Hi Laraine, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Defrost Thermostat, PartSelect Number: PS469510.The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!

2 people found this helpful.

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Torring Ware
April 17, 2019
My freezer is icing up after a week.
For model number PLHT219TCB0
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Hello Torring, thank you for inquiring. For this symptom you will want to replace either the Defrost Thermostat part PS469510 or the Evaporator Fan Motor Kit part PS3419839. We hope this helps.

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Manufacturer Part Number: 5303918202
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