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459481-1-S-Frigidaire-5303279394        -Tub Seal Assembly
459481-1-S-Frigidaire-5303279394        -Tub Seal Assembly 459481-2-S-Frigidaire-5303279394        -Tub Seal Assembly 459481-3-S-Frigidaire-5303279394        -Tub Seal Assembly https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/Frigidaire/DVCTCK76.gif

Tub Seal Assembly

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PartSelect Number PS459481
Manufacturer Part Number 5303279394
Manufactured by Frigidaire

If you have a leaky washer, then your tub seal may be the culprit. The tub seal assembly may also be known as the washer tub seal, and is a part for your washer. The function of this piece is to make sure water does not lead from between the outer tub and the spin basket from around your basket drive shaft within your washer. To replace your old part with this one you will need a flathead screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver, pliers, putty knife, 7/16 socket, spanner wrench, and a hammer.

This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Kenmore, Westinghouse, Gibson, Tappan, Crosley, Kelvinator, Uni, Electrolux.

This part works with the following products: Washer, Washer Dryer Combo.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Leaking.

Questions & Answers

Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Most Helpful


How to replace tub bearing.

Paul for model number 417.44142400

Hi Paul, Unfortunately we do not have instructions on how to replace that bearing as your tub bearing is not sold separately from your rear outer tub. Thank you for contacting us.

1 person found this helpful.

How do i remove the washer tub from a Westinghouse washer dryer combo

Phillip for model number MLXE42REW0

Hi Phillip, Thank you for your inquiry. First, disconnect the power and the water from your appliance. You will have to remove the end caps from the right and left side of your control panel to give yourself access to the screws holding your control panel in place. Once you unscrew those you will be able to flip your control panel back to reveal the retaining clips. Disconnect the lid switch wiring. Using a flat head screw driver, unclip the retaining clips from your machine. Then, lift the lid, grab the inside of your machine and lift the whole body off of the rest of the cabinet at a 45 degree angle. Use your foot to brace the bottom. Once you have that out of the way, remove the hose from the vacuum break. Then to remove the vacuum break you will have to flex the tabs and then pull out gently from the bottom so that you can pull down to release the rest of the tab. After that you will remove your agitator. Remove your fabric dispenser and you will see a bolt at the bottom of your agitator. unscrew that bolt and you will be able to remove the agitator. After that, use a spanner wrench to remove your spanner nut. To remove the tub cover, press down above the tabs that are around your tub and then gently pull off the tabs. Be careful to not be to rough. Once you have that cover off you will be able to remove your tub. Good luck with your repair.

Most Recent


It is a Kenmore laundry center made by Frigidaire company. I need the seal at the top of the transmission. I believe the number is 4,5,and 27. Can you help me. Sears don't sell the parts.

Jerry for model number 417.93862200

Hello, Thank you for contacting us. Checking your model number the seals you are asking for are only sold as part of the Transmission.Hope this helps!


I can see what looks like metal shavings from location of where transmission goes down to shaft with belt

Shirley for model number GLWS1979AS2

Hi Shirley, Thank you for your question. You may have to replace your transmission or have a technician come and take a look at your appliance. Good luck with you repair.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.4 / 5.0, 7 reviews What's this?
1-7 of 7

233 of 290 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Rick from Walkerton, IN

The primary problem was that the tub seal assembly was leaking.

1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.

2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.

3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.

4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.

5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.

6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.

The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy.

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113 of 137 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Patrick from Humble, TX

Noisy spin cycle

1) Unplugged washer and disconnected the hot and cold hoses.
2) removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel then removed front panel, you need enough clearance by the floor, this is tricky because you have to lean washer back and push down on the front panel.
3) removed the agitator from the washer
4) lifted top of washer and leaned back against the wall and removed the splash tub cover one clip at a time with a flat screw driver.
5) removed the trunion, this is difficult and will take some time due to the corrosion from many years of use use a hammer (3Lb short handle) and tap one side then the other. You will need to rock it back and forth awhile.
6) lift the basket out of splash tub
7) I removed the hose for water level and removed the 3 bolts that hold the splash tub to the three base mounts (support arms).
8) remove the splash tub
9)change the plastic washer that is between the splash tub and the transmission in the bottom of the splash tub
10) change the bearing(metal sleeve) on the bottom of splash tub and lightly grease w/ a thin film of teflon grease
11) install splash tub and install the 3 bolts along w/ the water level tube
12) install the larger seal (w/ spring in it) and push into the splash tub firmly
13) use some tub and faucet silicone grease on the smaller seal because you don't want to damage this main seal, install the main seal (sits on top of the larger one that's in the tub already) be careful when getting to flat part of the shaft when installing ( spin around the shaft as you pass this point) it will keep the seal from coming out.
14) install trunion (sits down on top of the seal) you will feel the tension of the spring when bolting the trunion back into place.
15) install basket and bolt it to the trunion (I installed a new filter on the bottom of the basket and required some special glue, ask for "3M" GMGA600 adhesive.
16) installed splash tub cover, agitator and front cover.
Washer works great and is quieter than it was new.

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52 of 80 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: dave from port sanilac, MI

Bearing and seal at top of transmission went bad causing oil from transmission to stain clothes

I removed front and top of washer to get acess to the tub. removed cap to tub along with inner tub and agitator. the hardest part is removing the springs on the bottom and tilt it forward to get tub out. removed belt, pulley and bolts holding transmission in place. reassemble using silicone grease on seals and washers. works great now

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26 of 31 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Tub Seal Assembly
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Michael from Springfield, VT

Washer not spinning, water leaking out bottom

My first step was to download and print out the parts diagrams from the manufacturer's website. With a basic idea of what I needed to get to I first removed the agitator cap and the agitator and right off I found a broken bolt on plate lock bracket that holds trunnion which supports and connects the tub to the transmission drive shaft. I replaced the bolt and put it back together and gave it a test run. Spun very nicely now but water was going everywhere. Unfortunately I found that when the bolt broke the tub had slipped down and ripped the rubber "tub seal assembly". To get to the seal I ended up tearing the machine completely down and removing the whole motor and transmission assembly out of the unit. It may be possible to get at the seal without doing this but I'm not 100% sure. To get the whole unit apart I did the following: Remove the front panel by removing the two screws located at the very bottom of the panel and lifting up and out .Remove the top/lid by removing two screws underneath the top toward the front, and disconnecting lid switch, or i found it easier to just unscrew and remove it, then lift off the top/lid assembly. Remove the agitator cap and the agitator. Remove the splash cover (this is not easy- I popped each tab with a flat screw driver- the ones at the rear were very difficult). I tried to remove the fill spigot but could not get at one of the screws so getting the splash cover out was not as easy as it could have been. Remove the bolts in the bottom of the tub and lift it out. Unhook the drain hose and the level or "pressure tube". Remove the 3 large and 3 small springs from the motor assembly ( I needed a strong spring hook but all I had was vice grips, they work but it was not easy). remove any other wires etc. (mark things with tape and matching numbers if needed) and pull out the whole barrel and motor assembly. Unbolt the splash tub and remove, unbolt the trunnion and remove. And finally replace the seal. Reassemble in reverse order. Important!! Clean shaft well (I used some 300 grit fine sandpaper to remove the little bit of rust scale that had accumulated) and lubricate everything. be very careful when reassembling, as to not scuff up the seals at all. I used a silicone spray. This might not be the best thing for the job but I know at least not to use anything petroleum based such as WD-40 when you are lubricating rubber or plastic. Reinstalling the springs was very difficult and again a spring hook would have been great. Everything else went together reasonably easy. The unit works fine now. many thanks to the websites I researched to get this done.

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12 of 20 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Tub Seal Assembly
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Gregory from Fort Worth, TX

Tub was leeking

Lifted top
removed adgetator
removed tub top
removed inside tub
removed inside tub holder bracket
repaced seal

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13 of 26 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Very Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Customer: Bob from Plantation, FL

Bearing went bad where the tub attaches to the transmission

It is a stacked washer and dryer so I had to completely disassemble the dryer so I could take the washer apart to get to the bearing. You had most of the parts except the bearing but I was able to find it on the internet. Actually work has picked up so I haven't gotten it back together yet but I hope to do so Thanksgiving weekend.

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9 of 19 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Tub Seal Assembly
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Customer: Martinus from Fort Lauderdale, FL

Leaking water from machine

This repair is realy very easy
As discribed by the others

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Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS459481
Manufacturer Part Number: 5303279394
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