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419402-1-S-Frigidaire-134120900         -Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
419402-1-S-Frigidaire-134120900         -Thermal Limiter - Limit 220 419402-2-S-Frigidaire-134120900         -Thermal Limiter - Limit 220 419402-3-S-Frigidaire-134120900         -Thermal Limiter - Limit 220 https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/Frigidaire/6SLAUZTK.gif

Thermal Limiter - Limit 220

Your Price

$9.38
Get this part fast. Average delivery time via standard shipping: 1.8 days.

PartSelect Number PS419402
Manufacturer Part Number 134120900
Manufactured by Frigidaire

The dryer thermal limiter, also known as a thermal fuse, blows the fuse to cut off power to the dryer when the dryer begins to overheat. Once the dryer reached 220 degrees Fahrenheit, the heat cuts out. If the thermal fuse is defective, damaged, or blown up then the dryer wont start, especially since it cannot be reset. It must be replaced if the following symptoms occur: the dryer overheats, takes too long to dry clothes, or there is not enough heat in the dryer. The tools needed for this repair are, a screwdriver, putty knife and needle-nose pliers. This part is manufactured for both gas and electric dryers.

This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Kenmore, Gibson, Kelvinator, Tappan, Crosley, Westinghouse, Uni, Electrolux.

This part works with the following products: Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will Not Start.
  • No heat or not enough heat.
  • Too hot.
  • Takes too long to dry.
  • Shuts off too soon.

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Most Helpful

Question:

Would not start so checked thermal list fuse... it was blown... replaced but did not reinstall to sheet metal since it was very tight space. put black tape around connections. had great air flow after reinstall and heat. after use it blew. should i have put on the sheet metal and left bare (no electrical tape) insted of the easier fix. ??

hal for model number FDE336RES2
Answer:

Hi Hal, Thank you for your inquiry. It would have been best if the fuse was installed the way the original fuse was. If the fuse blows again it may be an issue with the circuit breaker in your house. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

How could the circuit breaker in the house impact the thermal limiter? I think by not reinstalling it to the sheet metal to help dissipate heat and also my electrical tape both allowed heat build up to a higher level than the limit and it blew. Is there anything else inside the dryer that also needs to be checked?

Hal for model number FDE336RES2
Answer:

Hi Hal, Thank you for your question. Your circuit breaker can blow your thermal fuse if you do not have a surge protector on your electrical box. If there is a power surge, that will blow your fuse. It does indeed seem like because of the way that you installed the part, that is why it blew so quickly. You could check all of your thermostats to see if they are malfunctioning at all. However it just seems like you would need to install the part properly and it should be alright. Good luck with your repair Hal.

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

My dryer stops a few seconds to minutes into cycle and the "drying", "cooldown", and "extended tumble" start blinking. It can only be restarted after pressing cancel button. Does this sound like a result of a faulty thermal limiter? Sometimes, the dryer will run nearly a full cycle after it has been unplugged for an extended period of time.

Golden for model number AEQ8700fso
Answer:

Hi Golden, Thank you for your inquiry. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the thermal limiter, the high limit thermostat, the control thermistor, the heating element, the rear drum bearing kit and the door catch. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

1 person found this helpful.

Most Recent

Question:

Will the dryer motor come on if the thermal fuse is bad? The dryer quit drying, although the drum will turn.I changed the element but still no heat. The drum will turn, but no heat. Thanks

Larry for model number LEQ332DSO
Answer:

Hi Larry, Thank you for the question. If the fuse has blown,the dryer will still run and everything else will work except the there will be no heat. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

I plugged dryer in. Pushed the start button and starts for 1 second and pops main breaker, any ideas

Dave for model number FDE336RES1
Answer:

Hi Dave, Thank you for the question. If the heating element is defective, it shorts out, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. I suggest using a multimeter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out.Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

The dryer will not stay on drying. It goes immediately to cool down thus no heat. Would the thermal fuse cause this? Or is it more serious?

Pete for model number 41788042700
Answer:

Hi Pete, Thank you for your question. I would suggest testing both the high limit thermostat and your thermal cut off on your heating element to make sure that they are working correctly. It sounds like your high limit thermostat might be not working correctly. Testing the thermal cut off as well is just to cover all of your bases. You can test those parts with a multi meter. When you test them, if they are both showing zero, then those parts are fine and you may need to then test your heating element. The ohms should also be showing zero for that part as well. Good luck with your repair.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.1 / 5.0, 18 reviews What's this?
1-15 of 18
 

221 of 285 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Stephen from Newnan, GA

Thermal limiter opened

Unplugged Dryer.
Opened top of Dryer, over the drum.
Removed Thermal Limiter.
Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open.
Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up.
Replaced Thermal Limiter.
Closed top of dryer.
Plugged Dryer back.
Tested Dryer - it works.

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91 of 96 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Stephen from Austin, TX

Dryer would not start

I found a electrical diagram and some common problems on some websites which led me to check the thermal limiters. There are two right up top near the back of the dryer - one mounted closer to the heating coils and one mounted directly to the sheet metal on the inside back of the dryer. Using an DMM on the "Ohms" setting, I checked each sensor to make sure that they were "closed" (near zero ohms). Sure enough, the sensor mounted on the back of the enclosure was open (high resistance) which prevented the dryer from starting. To confirm, I shorted the two leads going to the sensor together temporarily and wrapped them with electrical tape and then tested the dryer - it worked perfectly. The part from Part Select was ordered and shipped very quickly. Since the sheet metal screws holding the sensor on were difficult to access with the drum in place, I used small machine screws/nuts to fasten the sensor - this allowed me to tighten the nuts from the outside of the dryer, making it very easy to attach.

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84 of 144 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: MELISSA from OKEECHOBEE, FL

Dryer does not get very hot, takes two cycle's to dry

removed the screws, disconnected the wires. installed the new elements replaced the wires.

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41 of 54 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: michael from jupiter, FL

Had a professional do the install. He had difficulty aligning the cabinet so that it did not rub against the dryer drum. The parts you mailed me worked fine and resolved the problem. Thanks. Even having to pay the installer saved me 50% on the total job.

Installer unscrewed the screws on the upper panel, loosened the pulley holding the rubber drum cable, and pulled the drum up and out of the unit. With the rear heating element exposed, he unplugged the wire connections to the heating element, unscrewed the four screws holding the element to the rear panel and took the element out. Then he installed the new heating element by re-applying the four screws into the rear panel. He then replaced the thermal limiter which was directly at the right of the heating element by unplugging the wire connections to the thermal limiter and then unscrewing the thermal limiter from the rear panel. The process to install the new thermal limiter was the reverse process. He didn't install a new High Limit Thermostat because there was one attached to the new Heater. When all the new parts were installed, he reinstalled the drum by pushing the rear nub of the drum into the whole at the center of the heating plate. He then placed the rubber drum cable around the drum with the rough service facing the drum, placed the cable on the pulley and adjusted the tension of the cable with a screw driver. He then reinstalled the front panel by aligned the screw holes and reinserting and tightening the screws.

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31 of 33 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Paul from Holiday, FL

Dryer overheated and stopped working

The first thing I did was cheked the electrical panel and breaker, then I checked the electrical cord, then I did check the motor on the bottom of the machine (that may be is the blower motor) looking for any indication of burned parts or broken, then I checked the on-off switch with a voltmeter looking for continuity and it was fine. Then I checked the timer switch and it was fine as well. Finally, I took the lid off the top of the dryer machine to check the thermostat and themal limiter fuse. The thermostat was fine but the thermal fuse was open. So after doing some research to understand how the fuse work I decided to place an order to get a new fuse. I installed it and the dryer started working again. After replacing the fuse I monitored the dryer machine while operating it and worked fine. Why the fuse was open or was damaged? It is the first time I have problems w/ the dryer. I checked the end of the conduct line that guide the air out and I noticed and have to clean the end of it because it was dirt. Because it was not completly clean, the dryer got overheated. It took me sometime to figure out the problem but I learned, save me money and the best part was that I do it myself : )

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26 of 39 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Sue from Houston, TX

Dryer was overheating.

I looked at two Youtube videos, one by Repair Clinic and the other by Shawn C Farm on how to take apart a Frigidaire dryer, and with Part Select diagram as to where the parts were located within the dryer which I was going to replace, made the job easy. Youtube www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg1W9RrxXLY Youtube www.youtube.com/watch?v=zc1sTUiYzzk

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17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Christine from Wheelersburg, OH

Overheating, squeeking

Unplung it, pop up the top and take it off, unplug the 2 plugs, take 2 screws out that hold the front door, take out the door. Get the belt loose from the back roller, pull out the entire drum. I changed all 3 thermostat, 2 in the back and 1 in the front, also change the rear bearing. Dryer works great now, no more squeeking and no more overheating it's like having a new dryer. I'm a woman and did it all by myself, save me a bunch of bucks!!!

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13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Mark from Normalville, PA

Dryer would not start. When turning on, I could hear faint humming, but the motor would not start.

1) Unplug the unit.
2) Remove all screws from top of the unit except for the one in the center front that does not go through the outer casing.
3) Find the Thermal Limiter which is on the back wall near the top on the left side when looking from the front.
4) Disconnect the two wires
5) Remove the two screws that mount the limiter to the back wall.
6) Use an ohmeter to test if a current flows through the unit. If no current flows through (an open switch), then the unit will need to be replaced.
7) Clean any lint that you can at this point.
8) Use two screws to mount new Thermal Limiter
9) Reconnect the two wires to the Limiter.
10) Attach the top of the dryer case.

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12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Onmi from Douglas, GA

Dryer would not start.

Unplugged the dryer from electrical socket. Vacuumed lint from dryer and exit hose. Removed top from dryer. Used pliers to remove the 2 wires from the thermal limiter. Used screwdriver to remove 2 screws that held the limiter in place.
Installed the new limiter, connected the 2 wires, plugged in the dryer's electrical connection, turned on dryer, and resumed my "washday chores".

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11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Susan from Point Pleasent Beach, NJ

Dryer not working

After reading about similar problems people have had with this make of dryer, I focused attention on the thermal limiter. I determined that it was the culprit by "jumping" it with a 6" piece of wire. Then I simply went on the site, ordered the part. It arrived a few days later and I pulled out the old one, screwed in the new one, and the dryer is good as new.

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8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Michael from Erlanger, KY

Dryer would not turn on

I contacted a company to come out and diagnose the problem. They informed me that the thermal limiter is bad and needed to be replaced for $15 for the part and $85 labor. I found the part on this site for about $10, and did the repair myself. The dryer was mostly dismantled so I pulled the drum back, and replaced the part. The tricky part was the pulley system was, so make sure you see it before hand or find a diagram online. Once that was figured out, I set the drum back up, greased and tightened the pulley, reattached the front of the washer with connections, and closed the lid.

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8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
Level of Difficulty: Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Pamela from Portland, OR

Takes multiple cycles to dry clothes

I don't think it would take others as long as it took me.
I had to take the drum out to get to the limiter. And my dryer is in a builtin housing with limited space in front of the dryer - so lots of manuevers to get access.

The limiter was very easy to find, thanks to diagrams on this site. The space between drum and limiter made it impossible to get to the limiter screws without removing drum. Found very helpful drum removal instructions on PartSelect here:

http://www.partselect.com/PS1148434-Frigidaire-134503600-Dryer-Drum-Belt.htm?SourceCode=13&ModelNum=FSE748GFS0

Great site - thank you.

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5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Daniel from SAN ANTONIO, TX

Dryer would not even turn on. Removed 2 screws holding thermal limiter switch and removed t

Basically, i followed instructions on 1 video i seen, but was able to shorten repair by not removing drum, and was still able to access the thermal limiter switch to remove old one and install new one. Worked like a charm. Thanks Dan

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7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Wrench set
Customer: William from Pardeeville, WI

The dryer was over-heating, the vents had been cleaned to it wasn't the vent, but something wrong with the dryer. The thermal limiter was a cheap try to see if it would fix the problem.

The hardest part was getting to the part and removing it and putting it back on. The schematics that you had on your website helped us locate where it needed to go and, hopefully, that will solve our problem.

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2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Michael from HUDSON, NY

Dryer stopped in middle of cycle and wouldn't restart

followed video and replaced part( cleaned and vacuumed dryer while I had it apart),relatively easy repair

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1-15 of 18

Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS419402
Manufacturer Part Number: 134120900
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