This is a locking pin, and it works in conjunction with your washer. The part measures to be roughly 3 inches long, and less than an inch wide. The pin is cylindrical, off-white in color, and made entirely of plastic. This part is used to hold the shock absorber on the washing machine. There is a pin used at the bottom and top of the shock absorber. This model is sold individually. If your washing machine is experiencing an above-average amount of shaking and moving this part may be the reason.
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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Shakes and moves
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
This part works with the following products:
LG, Kenmore.
Part# 4774FR3118B replaces these:
AP4437237, 1267588, 4774FR3118B
Questions and Answers
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Laura
January 17, 2018
I need the back shock absorber and mount the for the frame and the mount for the drum. I went to a part dealer and they told me it looks like it got discontinue and to contact the LG company. Please help
For model number WM1814CW
Hello Laura, Thank you for contacting us. I have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you’re looking for is PartSelect Number PS3583320 for the Shock Absorber (Sold individually). The locking Pins or mounts are PartSelect Number PS3523451. They are also sold individually. There is a pin at the top and bottom of each shock absorber. Hope this helps!
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Bearing seal out causing bearings to get wet and very noisy
Watched a short video to figure out to remove panels. After panels were off I removed as much as I could from the inside of the machine. This was not completely necessary however for an extra half hour it made inspection, cleanup and removal of tub housing out the front of the machine much easier. Once out, I split the two halves of the outer basin and sprayed the spider shaft with penetrating oil. Using a brass drift I did have to get a bit aggressive to drive spider shaft out, then I used a heavy metal punch to hammer out the bearings. For those who may not know using brass or a soft metal will keep from damaging reusable parts. At this point it was cleanup time, with dish soap I scrubbed the two halves of the outer basin and the wash basin itself then used emery cloth on the bearing casing and spider shaft. I am a firm believer if u take the time to cleanup properly things go back together much easier. At this point I began to reassemble, replacing tub bearings and seal, the wash basin then putting the two halves of the outer basin back together. I strongly recommend replacing gasket for the halves of the outer basin, for as much as it takes to get there it is money well spent to up the chances of a leak free system. Now with the wash tub back together it was time to reset the tub and hook everything back up. I skipped a lot of steps but if a person pays attention, takes pictures if they have to, even numbers lines with a sharpie it is a very easy repair. Very easy but very time consuming. I am DIY’er, in all I spent about ten hours over two days to do this job. Thus being said I am very particular spent a lot of time cleaning, scrubbing looking at as many wear points and checking for rubbed wires. Hope this helps someone out there, definitely not a strong writer or like doing it. Oh one other thing, I ordered the shocks on the bottom side of wash tub just because I guess not thinking they were bad just thinking I could help tune it up. Was surprised to find the old ones were completely shot, was glad I ordered new ones. After repairs, noise is gone and machine is quiet again. Thank you, your website is very easy to find parts and order.
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