Gasket 4036ER4001B | Official LG Part | Fast Shipping | PartSelect
Gasket – Part Number: 4036ER4001B
Gasket – Part Number: 4036ER4001B https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/LG/138536-1.gif

Gasket

PartSelect Number PS3522859

Manufacturer Part Number 4036ER4001B

Manufactured by LG

Product Description

Gasket Specifications

This is a seal for a washer tub. It creates a seal between the front and rear halves of the washer tub to prevent the appliance from leaking. If you notice leakage between the two sections of the tub, you may need to replace this part. Seals can get dry and brittle over time which compromises the integrity of the part and may cause your appliance to leak. This is a genuine replacement part sourced from the original manufacturer. You will need to disassemble the outer panels of the washer to access the tub seal.

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Troubleshooting

This part fixes the following symptoms:

Noisy | Leaking | Shakes and moves

This part works with the following products:

Washer.

This part works with the following brands:

LG, Kenmore.

Part # 4036ER4001B replaces these:

4036ER4001B, AP4437757.
Questions and Answers
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.5 / 5.0, 7 reviews What's this?
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Anthony from Crystal Lake, IL
Difficulty Level:
Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Parts Used:
4036ER4001B, 383EER3001E
Worn bearings
To replace the bearings a complete disassembly of the washer was required. After pulling the tube assembly from the cabinet and separating the tube enclosure halves and removing the rotor and stator, since the washer uses direct drive, a gear puller was required to push the drive shaft through the old bearings since they didn’t separate easily as seen in several YouTube videos. After removing the tube assembly it is recommended that you also separate from the spider, which contains the drive shaft, from the tube itself since a significant amount of sediment had caked inside the indentations on the inside of the spider. Since the front bearing, part number 4280FR4048D, was no longer available I used an NTN double sealed bearing, part number 6306LLUC3/L627. The only other tricky aspect of the repair was pushing the drive shaft through the new bearings since pushing it by hand did not produce enough force to get it through to expose enough of the shaft on the other side to be able to reconnect the rotor. The solution was to pull the shaft through rather than pushing it. To do this I placed a 1 3/4 inch drive socket over the outer ring of the rear bearing, and then I used a 3 inch 10mm x 1.50 mm bolt through the drive socket with enough large washers to use as spacers between the bolt head and the drive socket. I then threaded about a half inch of the bolt into the center of the drive shaft by hand to remove any gap between the bolt head and the washers. As I turned the bolt clockwise with a 17mm drive socket wrench the bolt pulled the drive shaft through the bearings with ease. I did follow the manufacturer’s recommendation to replace the seal between the two tube enclosure halves and the three dampers with new ones since they do eliminate much of the vibration during the spin cycle. I also replace the top bellows since I noticed that a large hole had been formed on it by rubbing against the inlet hoses which are situated directly above. The repair took a week only because I had to wait for parts.
84 of 145 people found this instruction helpful.
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Todd from STOCKTON, KS
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts Used:
4774FR3118B, 4280FR4048L, MAP61913707, 4036ER4001B, 4036ER2004A, 383EER3001S
Bearing seal out causing bearings to get wet and very noisy
Watched a short video to figure out to remove panels. After panels were off I removed as much as I could from the inside of the machine. This was not completely necessary however for an extra half hour it made inspection, cleanup and removal of tub housing out the front of the machine much easier. Once out, I split the two halves of the outer basin and sprayed the spider shaft with penetrating oil. Using a brass drift I did have to get a bit aggressive to drive spider shaft out, then I used a heavy metal punch to hammer out the bearings. For those who may not know using brass or a soft metal will keep from damaging reusable parts. At this point it was cleanup time, with dish soap I scrubbed the two halves of the outer basin and the wash basin itself then used emery cloth on the bearing casing and spider shaft. I am a firm believer if u take the time to cleanup properly things go back together much easier. At this point I began to reassemble, replacing tub bearings and seal, the wash basin then putting the two halves of the outer basin back together. I strongly recommend replacing gasket for the halves of the outer basin, for as much as it takes to get there it is money well spent to up the chances of a leak free system. Now with the wash tub back together it was time to reset the tub and hook everything back up. I skipped a lot of steps but if a person pays attention, takes pictures if they have to, even numbers lines with a sharpie it is a very easy repair. Very easy but very time consuming. I am DIY’er, in all I spent about ten hours over two days to do this job. Thus being said I am very particular spent a lot of time cleaning, scrubbing looking at as many wear points and checking for rubbed wires. Hope this helps someone out there, definitely not a strong writer or like doing it. Oh one other thing, I ordered the shocks on the bottom side of wash tub just because I guess not thinking they were bad just thinking I could help tune it up. Was surprised to find the old ones were completely shot, was glad I ordered new ones. After repairs, noise is gone and machine is quiet again. Thank you, your website is very easy to find parts and order.
48 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
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Cherie from PHOENIX, AZ
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Parts Used:
MAP61913708, MAP61913707, 4036ER4001B, 4036ER2004A
Dry bearing noise, rough bearing, very loud in spin cycle
I went online and looked at the different parts companies for this brand of washer. This is an LG Tromm steam washer. I am pretty mechanically inclined so I watched videos on this machine which you can also find on line and U-Tube and took down some notes that I felt relevant for the disassembly and the repair. I looked at the break down parts schematics and ordered all the parts I felt I needed for this machine. The parts I ordered were the tub hub seal and the inner and outer bearings that go on the spindle shaft which is connected to a piece they call the spider that connects to the inner tub. I also ordered the outer tub o-ring where the outer tub splits in half. Note that I mentioned the spider and that they have a tendency to corrode bad, but you cannot see it until it is disassembled, the parts I ordered are reasonable, the spider can cost upwards of a hundred plus dollars so make sure you evaluate the cost of parts to the age of your machine and to the cost of a new one. Well on my front load washer when I finally took it apart and I felt I got lucky with just the two spindle hub bearings and the seal and the outer tube seal. After looking at the videos and taking some notes, written and mental, I started the disassembly of the washer. First " unplug the power to the washer". the next step is to shut off your two water supplies to the washer and disconnect the hot and cold water lines, note that I disconnected the lines at the washer just for the convenience of not having those lines hanging off the machine and out of your way. another note is that you will want an area with some space so you can keep everything organized and give yourself some room to work. Once you have your machine moved to a open space, start by removing the top of the machine. there are two screws, 4 total in the back of the cover that are removed with a plastic bracket on each side, these are Phillips head or cross type screws. once removed, take the top and shift it back about 1 to 1.5 inches, you then can lift the top off and out of the way. The next step is to remove the front control panel by starting with the wire connectors that go into the control panel. Each connecter is different so there is no mix up. next is to remove your soap dispenser tray, on top of the tray about in the center towards the back is a spot that you gently push down on and this will release the tray for removal and move it out of the way. There are two Phillip screws on each side where you removed the tray that need to be removed to be able to remove the dispenser section out of the way. there are hoses connected to the dispenser but once lifted up an out you can lay the dispenser with the hoses connected over towards the back. There is a large rubberized hose connection that needs to be removed which has a clamp on it that you need to loosen up to take loose the connection. back to the front control panel there is one more screw on the back side on the right side looking at the front that must be removed then the front control panel assembly can be removed. there are some plastic clips on the control panels back side that need undone, gently and be careful not to force these clips but slightly lift up on the rear of the control panel and it should come out of there and then set the control panel aside. There are I believe 6 screws on the top of the front door panel assembly that need removed but before you do that down on the left bottom corner you have a panel door which pops open then is easily removed out of the way. there is a small rubber line with a plug in the end of it which can be pulled a little ways. Get a container that is low profile and pull the plug on the hose and direct it into the container, you may or may not get any water out of it, it is the tub drain. reinstall plug when done and put line back in place. Next take the pump screen out by unscrewing it out counter clockwise like a bolt, it is about 1.5 inches in diameter, you may want to put a small towel down in front of it because you will usually get a little water out of it. Once removed, inspect the plastic screen for any debri and remove it and reinstall the screen. Now down in that same area below the screen there is a Phillips screw which needs to be removed and set aside. Now you go to the rubber boot behind the washer door when the door is open on the outer edge there is a metal wire that goes around the boot to hold it in place with a spring on it. You want to gently take a flat blade screw driver and not to tear the boot, work that wire and spring out of its groove and remove it out of the way. now you may take the rubber boot on the front and take it off its edge and push it back in towards the tub. Now we go back to the six screws at the top of the panel and remove them. at this time you should be able to lean the panel out enough to disconnect the wires to the door latch. Once the door latch has been disconnected, lift up on the front door panel and bring it out
13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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mark from REEDSVILLE, WI
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Parts Used:
MAP61913708, MAP61913707, 4036ER4001B, 4036ER2004A
washer grinds while running
as expected, the rear bearings were GONE!.. hard part was removing the inner tub from the outer one. hint... put the bolt in the shaft, tighten and pond the crap out of it ... takes time but the tub will come out, after that it's easy
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from YUMA, AZ
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Parts Used:
MAP61913727, MAP61913708, 4036ER4001B, 4036ER2004A
Washer sounded like the 3:10 to Yuma was rolling through the laundry room when the washer hit the spin cycle.
Google LG washing machine bearing replacement, you'll find a very informative video narrated by a British gentleman who will walk you through the steps. If you are even a slightly handy DIY'er this is an easy job although very time consuming. Take your time with reassembling the machine. I missed a couple of connections and while testing it out I flooded the laundry room. Could have been avoided if I had taken a picture of every individual item I disconnected.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Ritchie from HOUMA, LA
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Parts Used:
4036ER4001B
Making noise on the spin cycle
Disassembled washer, replaced bearings, seals and gasket. Watched instructional video to familiarize myself with the repair. Followed all steps as recommended, repair was straight forward without any surprises. Hardest part was removing the drum from the machine, somewhat heavy. Disassembled and replaced all bearings, seals, spider and gasket. Reinstalled in reverse order. Note: Upon tear down, I found the seal was pushed out, causing the bearing failure. I also found that the seal was installed incorrectly from LG. They have the seal lip facing the bearings, should be facing the water. This repair seems to be difficult, but was fairly self explanatory. All plug ins are color coded, all hoses are accessible with little effort. If you have basic skills you should be able to handle this repair.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Joe from OCEANSIDE, CA
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts Used:
MAP61913708, 4036ER4001B, 4036ER2004A
grinding noise, at spin
I followed instructions, posted by this site ln so doing, I saved at least $ 800. Dll`s
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer Reviews
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS3522859
Manufacturer Part Number: 4036ER4001B
Brand
Model Number
Description
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