Learned as I went along, from various YouTube videos.
I lucked out opening the top of the dryer in that I didn't break anything when I popped the top up, since I didn't know to use a putty knife to depress inward the retaining clips.
Found the belt lying on top of the drum, and when I lifted it, it easily came free since it was broken.
Watched the YouTube from PartSelect, finally, and Steve made it seem so easy. Unplugged it, turned off the gas, too.
Front two screws unscrewed no problem. Front panel lifted away, no problem. Tons of lint in the front housing, so I decided to clean away as much lint as possible since this was the best opportunity, and I also vacuumed lint out of the sheet metal exhaust all the way to the outdoors exit port. Then I had to get that sheet metal pipe back in place, perfectly, and that was a little tricky
The roller kit was a bargain compared to separate parts I thought I'd need (one roller only) so I replaced both rollers and their posts, spacer, and washers.
Another vender video recommended high temp lithium grease to lube the new posts, but I just used "plumbers grease" that I happened to find lying around the house.
The most difficult part of the whole process was pre-fitting the new screws into the plates of the new posts because you are self-threading the screws and I didn't have a nut driver. (I was trying to do it using two wrenches, one to hold the plate, the other to turn the screw. The torque required is so high that you'll start to round the hex edges of the screws and ruin them. So, I went out and bought a 5/16" socket for $2.49, and self threaded the screws by holding the plates with a wrench, and using my power drill with the 5/16" socket.
This is where you risk ruining everything because as soon as the screw has self-threaded the plate, the resistance drops to near-zero, and the drill zooms the screw down hard onto the plate. I found, afterward, one ribbon of thread lying on the work area, which means I stripped one of the threads by one winding. (I'm not too worried, but it did make me wonder if I had screwed up. Keep the old screws to use as replacements for the new ones if you encounter the same problem where you inadvertently strip a screw too far.)
Then, the plates go back into the dryer, and the left side plate has a much larger gap, because you have to remove/replace it through the rear wall slot by turning it in-situ; the right one just falls down into your waiting hand, and is replaced by raising it up from behind its slot.
Finally, you come to the belt replacement, and just follow the way Steve showed in the YouTube. However, I tried and tried, but it was difficult for me since I'm left handed and you do it with the right hand. I was finally able to get it by getting the belt around the metal drive, first, and then bringing the white wheel over and working it into position by pulling the belt forward to clear the white wheel being positioned to receive the belt's tension.
This is a very doable dryer repair, it will save you hundreds of dollars, you'll do a better job than a repairman (since you vacuum all the lint out too), and its a great story to tell your friends.
Learning how to do it, actually doing the repair, and then double checking that I got everything "right," I'd guess that I put in 8 hours of my time.
It was fun… but keep your cool since there will be a little aggravation, and maybe a trip to the hardware store to get tools you don't own.
Other Parts Used: