Whirlpool 279834 - 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit | PartSelect
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'M' Series New Style Coil Kit – Part Number: 279834
'M' Series New Style Coil Kit – Part Number: 279834 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit – Part Number: 279834 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit – Part Number: 279834 https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/Maytag/S8EKXQYR.gif

'M' Series New Style Coil Kit

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$28.48

Get this part fast. Average delivery time via standard shipping: 1.8 days.

PartSelect Number PS334310

Manufacturer Part Number 279834

Manufactured by Whirlpool

This is an M series new style coil kit, used in gas dryers. When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils work together to let the gas enter the dryer. The coils open the gas valve; if the valve does not open the heating element will not ignite. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. This kit comes with a three-terminal boost/hold coil, and a two-terminal main coil. Each part is approximately 1 1/4 inches in diameter. If the igniter glows but shuts off without igniting gas, it means one of the two valves is faulty. We recommend you replace these as a set. Before you begin this repair, unplug your appliance and shut off the gas supply.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, Speed Queen, KitchenAid, Roper, Norge, Crosley, Magic Chef, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Jenn-Air, Hoover, International

This part works with the following products: Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo

This part fixes the following symptoms: No heat or not enough heat | Takes too long to dry | Shuts off too soon | Timer will not advance

Questions & Answers

Most Helpful

Question:

If the flame in my dryer is only lasting for a few seconds and then shutting off is it the igniters problem? What should I be looking for in this situation?

Kaelyn
Answer:

Hi Kaelyn, the coils can be tested using a multi-meter tool. The 2-prong coil read 1,000-1,300 ohms. The 3-prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1 and 2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1 and 3. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

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Question:

I’m having problems with my dryer because I don’t think there is any gas but the igniter is coming on. Would the gas valve coil kit solve this

Joelle
Answer:

Hi Joelle, yes this should fix your problem. Unfortunately, there is no real way to test which coil is the problem so both should be replaced at the same time, which is why this assembly will come with 2. I hope this helps!

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Question:

I think my coils need replacing because I am not getting heat in my dryer… but how do I check the igniter, where is it? Id rather wait to buy this part and make sure that I actually need it!

Olie
Answer:

Hello Olie, we suggest removing the front panel and the drum, and then turn the dryer on. When the dryer turns on, pay attention to the igniter and see what it does. Best of luck with this repair.

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Question:

Hello when i turn on my clothe dryer i notice that my gas valve opens only once in the first start then the igniter turns on normaly but not the gas valve no flames at all i then turn off the dryer wait a few minutes and it ignites Flame once and again same problem the igniter turns red hot at its normal phase but no Flame what could it be thank you

David for model number WGD5500SQ0
Answer:

Hi David, Thank you for your question. There are a few parts that might cause this problem, however you should check your Radiant Flame Sensor to see if it is malfunctioning. This part senses heat from the igniter to monitor if it is hot enough to ignite gas to light the burner. Once the igniter is hot enough it will open the valve and allow gas to flow. This is a safety mechanism to prevent dangerous levels of gas from building up. I hope that helps!

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Question:

I replaced the thermostat but now i want to replace the coils. But i see nothing on videos or manuals that shows me where they are. Can you give me direction?

Fred for model number MGD5640TQ0 Maytag Dryer
Answer:

Hi Fred, Thank you for your inquiry. The coils are located on the bottom left hand front corner of your appliance. You will have to remove the front panel of your appliance to be able to get to it. Good luck with your repair.

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Question:

I just took out the coils from my older Maytag gas drier. I took ohm readings with my fluke meter. Both are reading zero resistance. Does this mean they are bad?

Mark for model number LDG7600AAW
Answer:

Hi Mark, Thank you for your question. The coils should be reading a resistance of 1000 - 2000 ohms. If it is zero, then your coils are bad. Good luck with your repair.

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Question:

Dryer heats the first time. After that i hear a rattling sound and the ignitor glows, no gas to ignite so ignitor shuts down. The process repeats but no heat. Let the dryer sit idle for a while and it will heat again once or twice.. coils?

Arnie for model number LGA30AW
Answer:

Hello Arnie, Thank you for your inquiry. Yes, that would be the part we would recommend replacing first. Hope this helps!

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Question:

How do you remove the front panel of the dryer to be able to replace the coils?

Lori for model number AGD4370TQ0
Answer:

Hi Lori Thank you for your question. There is some information on our website that a customer provided on how they installed the coils that you can reference, "1 Unplug power. 2. Remove the front of the unit by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Front dryer panel will swing out from the bottom and then the clips will release the top of the panel, careful not to disconnect the dryer door switch. ( can be unplugged to remove the front panel out of the way.) 3. Looking inside the unit on the right side you will see the gas value. On top of the gas unit you will see two small coils the coil closest to the burner has two leads on it. Remove the two screws to get to the coils, remove the medal plate, remove the connector then lift off the secondary coil. Replace and test. You can test unit with the front panel off. (be careful). If no heat, check that the Flat Style igniter is glowing. (ohm out both coils) before ordering parts. Intermittent heat problems. I replaced the secondary coil, it did ohm out o:k but it had swollen and was very tight on the shaft." I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

The igniter will glow, then the Flame comes on for about 10 seconds, then Flame and igniter will turn off. After about a minute that's off, the igniter will turn on again and the Flame will follow soon after but the Flame again will only stay for about 10 sec. And this cycle keep repeating. What could be the problem part?

Ramon for model number DG612
Answer:

Hi Ramon. Thank you for the question. I suggest replacing or testing the Radiant Flame Sensor.If you test it with a Multi Meter it shoudl read closed. Hope this helps!

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Question:

I've been having problems with my timer advancing, and my heating doesn't turn on all the time.Could the coils for the gas be causing this?

Larry for model number SDG305DAWW
Answer:

Hi Larry, Thank you for the question. The 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit does work in line with the timer. I suggest replacing the coils first and if they do not fix the issue you may need to replace the timer. Hope this helps!

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Question:

Have replaced the gas valve coils twice the Maytag works fine but there is a very small leak of gas detected (.04 per gas co)..at the end near the igniter. can the coils work with a micro. leak?? is there something else that can leak? going to try the meter see what readings i get. thanks for any help.

Bob for model number MDG 7600 AWW
Answer:

Hi Bob, Thank you for your inquiry. I would check the gas valve to see if the leak is coming from there. If your are unable to find it you will need to contact technician to check it out. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

Which coil goes close to burner 2 wire or 3

Terry
Answer:

Hi Terry, Thank you for your question. The coil that has 3 prongs on it goes on closest to the front of the machine (or closest to you when you have the panel open and are looking at the parts to replace them). The coil with 2 prongs is placed on the back mounting position. I hope this helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Question:

Dryer runs but not getting heat?

Tim for model number Wgd5300vw0
Answer:

Hi Tim, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Thermal Fuse, PartSelect Number PS11741460. You can check for continuity with a Multi Meter. I also suggest testing the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit and the Igniter. Hope this helps!

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Question:

I purchase the m series coils kit. Where are they located? Installation instructions? Thank you

Fred for model number LDG8704AAE
Answer:

Hello Fred, Thank you for your inquiry. These parts fit onto the main gas valve. First remove the two screws around the lint screen, then take a putty knife and insert it about two inches from the edge of the top to release the locking tabs so you can lift up the top of the dryer. Release the door switch wiring harness clip with a screwdriver. Then use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove the screws that hold the front panel on (they should be on the inside corners). You should now be able to take the front panel off, you will have to lift it up and back to take it off the clips. Next step, take the belt off the idler pulley by pushing it towards the outside of the dryer then pulling the belt off. Take the drum and belt out. Now you can access the gas valve. Disconnect the wire harness clips from the coils then remove the two screws from the bracket that holds the coils in place. Lift the bracket off, then lift the coils off the shafts, making sure the metal spacer stays on the shaft that the larger coil with three prongs came off of-sometimes it will come off with the coil-if it does, remove it from the coil and put it back on the shaft. Put the new coils on and replace the bracket (making sure the small holes on the bracket line up with the coils) and reinstall the screws. Reconnect the wire plugs. To put the drum back in, lift it up by the belt and guide it back through the front panel. Set it down onto the roller wheels, and rotate it and make sure none of the felt is damaged or bunched up. Then lift up on the idler pulley and push it towards the side of the machine, then create a loop in the belt that you can pull over the motor pulley. Line up the front panel with the brackets at the front and push the panel down into them, at the same time, lifting the drum up and lining it up with front seal so the panel pushes on all the way-you may have to wiggle the drum slightly to do so. Then replace the screws that hold the front panel on. Reconnect the door switch, then lift the top back into place, then reattach the screws near the lint screen. Hope this helps!

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Most Recent

Question:

I see no glow when machine is running and the thermal fuse and thermostats all are working (checked with multi-meter tool). Based on that can you tell me what that narrows it down too?

David for model number RGS7648EW3
Answer:

Hi David, Thank you for your question. If you have checked the thermal fuse and the thermostats and they are working fine, there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which ones are causing the issue. You will need to check the coils, the igniter, the the radiant flame sensor, the thermal cutoff, the belt and the temperature switch. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

Does these parts work with my Whirlpool dryer model number lgr5644aw1? (ps334310 279834), (ps11741405 wp3387134), (ps11741460 wp3392519), (ps11741429 wp338906)

Bryan for model number LGR5644AW1
Answer:

Hi Bryan, Thank you for your question. Yes, these parts are listed under your model number and will work in your dryer. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

I purchased part number 279834. I removed the front panel from the dryer. I could see no way to remove the old coils and install the new ones without removing the entire burner assembly. Is that necessary or am i missing something?

Thomas for model number MGDB800VQ0
Answer:

Hi Thomas, Thank you for your question. First remove the two screws around the lint screen, then take a putty knife and insert it about two inches from the edge of the top to release the locking tabs so you can lift up the top of the dryer. Release the door switch wiring harness clip with a screwdriver. Then use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove the screws that hold the front panel on (they should be on the inside corners). You should now be able to take the front panel off, you will have to lift it up and back to take it off the clips. Next step, take the belt off the idler pulley by pushing it towards the outside of the dryer then pulling the belt off. Take the drum and belt out. Now you can access the gas valve. Disconnect the wire harness clips from the coils then remove the two screws from the bracket that holds the coils in place. Lift the bracket off, then lift the coils off the shafts, making sure the metal spacer stays on the shaft that the larger coil with three prongs came off of-sometimes it will come off with the coil-if it does, remove it from the coil and put it back on the shaft. Put the new coils on and replace the bracket (making sure the small holes on the bracket line up with the coils) and reinstall the screws. Reconnect the wire plugs. To put the drum back in, lift it up by the belt and guide it back through the front panel. Set it down onto the roller wheels, and rotate it and make sure none of the felt is damaged or bunched up. Then lift up on the idler pulley and push it towards the side of the machine, then create a loop in the belt that you can pull over the motor pulley. Line up the front panel with the brackets at the front and push the panel down into them, at the same time, lifting the drum up and lining it up with front seal so the panel pushes on all the way-you may have to wiggle the drum slightly to do so. Then replace the screws that hold the front panel on. Reconnect the door switch, then lift the top back into place, then reattach the screws near the lint screen. Hope this helps!

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Question:

Hello, my old Maytag dryer is been acting up. I did replace the coil 2&3 prong but now it is igniting then gas will burn for 30 40 sec then gas/fire shut off but still continue to turn drum, after 1.15 min to 1.3 min of just turning the drum without heat then the gas/fire ignite for another 30 40 second. Then it repeat the cycle. Is this mean that i have a problem with fuse or high thermostat? Please advise, thanks!

Rus for model number LDG712
Answer:

Hello Rus, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: Radiant Flame Sensor, high limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, gas valve with coils, and thermal fuse. You can test the parts with a multimeter to see if they have continuity. Hope this helps!

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Question:

My dryer runs but there is no heat. The glow plug or igniter gets red hot and then it goes out. Can you help?

John for model number wgd9200sq0
Answer:

Dear John, Thanks for your question. Your issue may be relating to the gas valve coils or the igniter itself. You may wish to test both parts with a multimeter to check for electrical continuity. Replace either or both if they lack continuity. We hope this helps.

Related Parts: Igniter Kit
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Question:

When dryer starts the glow plugs turns on Flame ignites glow plugs goes out Flame stays lit, but seems to be on low heat setting only. Flame looks the same when on high or low setting. Clothes dry but it takes a long time. Is there a part that controls the high heat setting that can go bad?

Tony for model number Wgt3300sq1
Answer:

Hello Tony, thank you for your question. I would recommend testing/replacing the Thermostat, Internal-Bias Part Number: WP3387134, as well as the Thermal Fuse Part Number: WP3392519 first. You're testing for continuity at room temperature the reading should be 0. If these are tested and are functioning correctly, I would recommend checking over the burner parts. The coils, igniter, and gas valve. I hope this helps!

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Question:

Do these coils work for my dryer if it uses LP?

Bernie for model number Ggw9200lw0
Answer:

Hi Bernie, Thank you for the question. Yes, the coils work with both LP and Natural Gas. Hope this helps!

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Question:

Is there a difference between natural gas and lp dryer when it comes to parts i need? We get no heat when we run the dryer.

Bernie for model number GGW9200LW0
Answer:

Hi Bernie, Thank you for your question. If you are switching your appliance from natural gas to liquid propane, there is a conversion kit you will need so the dryer operates correctly. The part number listed under your model number for the conversion kit is PS3493998. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

Hi, since i bought this dryer several years ago it seems to not get hot enough. We usually have to turn it on again to get the clothes completely dry. It says or the light comes on saying sensing. Any suggestions? Thanks

David for model number wdg6400sbo Whirlpool cabrio dryer
Answer:

Hi David, Thank you for your question. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the coils, the igniter kit, the radiant flame sensor, the internal bias thermostat, the high limit thermostat and the thermal cut off. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

Very little heat. Did a diagnostic test, f 01 came up. Any suggestions? Jim

Jim Corbett for model number WGD9400SU1
Answer:

Hello Jim, Thank you for your inquiry. F01 indicates a main control board failure. Sometimes you can clear it by unplugging the dryer for 15 minutes, but if after doing so you still get that error, you may have to replace the control board part# WPW10174745. Hope this helps!

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Question:

Hi i just replaced coil valve and thrust-fix and my dryer still not heating up. Any suggestions?

Juanita for model number LGB6300PW0
Answer:

Hello Juanita, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: the thermal fuse, the internal bias thermostat, the high limit thermostat and the thermal cut off kit. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!

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Question:

My dryer is not generating enough heat. The igniter activate, lights the Flame; however, only stays on for roughly 20 seconds. After a couple of minutes, it cycles through the same process, only this time, the Flame only stays on for roughly 5 seconds. I replaced the coil kit, radiant Flame sensor and the high limit thermostat and no changes. Is it possible that the new coil kit was bad, or could it be something else?

Nelson for model number MDG6200AWW
Answer:

Hi Nelson, Thank you for your inquiry. To verify if the coils and the other parts you have replaced are working correctly, you will need to test them with a multimeter. If they are working correctly, you will need to check the heating element, the thermal fuse and the gas valve. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

Gas stays on for 10 minutes than shuts off will new coils fix this problem everything else seems to check out

jay for model number mgdc400vwo
Answer:

Hi Jay, Thank you for your inquiry. The coils may fix the issue, but there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the door switch, the internal bias thermostat, the igniter kit, the radiant flame sensor and the drive motor with pulley. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

I have Maytag dryer. I just replaced igniter. It does not glow even with new igniter. What else could be the problem?Please advise. thank you.

Miroslav for model number MDG6000BWW
Answer:

Hi Miroslav, Thank you for the question. When the igniter will not ignite it is recommended you replace the M' Series New Style Coil Kit. Hope this helps!

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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.7 / 5.0, 126 reviews What's this?
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786 of 930 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Michael from Kirkwood, MO

Gas dryer would not ignite

1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck!

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331 of 369 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Gary from Haverhill, NH

Dryer ran but would not heat

PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.

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142 of 160 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Joaquin from Las Vegas, NV

Timer wasn't working (new timer)

Timer wasn't working on the regular cycle so I replace it with a new one from partselect. It still wasn't working so I ordered and replace the cycling thermostat, the thermal fuse I also cleaned the vent and dryer it still didn't work so I read the diagram for the electrical and found that a coil for the gas valve is line with timer. I ordered the coils for the valves, replaced both valves and tested the dryer and it work just like when I first bought the appliance.

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136 of 144 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: andy from Bethesda, MD

Dryer flame goes out after about 8-minutes from start and won’t work again until a 15-minute rest.

There was no problem with lint build-up within the dryer & the exhaust vent. I removed the gas cycling thermostat & thermal fuse from system & dryer still was not operating correctly. The radiant sensor & hi-limit thermostat both seemed to be operating correctly. That left either of the two coils as the culprits. I replaced both coils & the problem was corrected.

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100 of 110 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Matthew from Lake Worth, FL

Extended drying time. Some but not enough heat. Burner would light for 15-18 seconds at first then shut off for 1-3 minutes then light for 3-6 seconds and repeat for the length of the cycle.

Determining the problem was the hardest part. With multiple parts (coils,thermostats...)possibly causing similar symptoms, I narrowed it down to the two coil valves.
Un plug the dryer. Remove two screws at the base of the front panel. Turn the front panel 180 degrees to avoid disconnecting the door switch. Gas valve with coils on top are on the right in front. Remove two screws in bracket holding coils, disconnect the wires, replace with new coils and reconnect wires. One coil has 2 terminals the other has 3 no chance of crossing the wires. I used an offset/right angle screw driver for one of the bracket screws due to close proximity to the drum. A stubby phillips head will work. You can check the burner operation with the front panel off as long as the door switch is still attached. Swing the front panel around and lift back into place securing with the two screws. Dryer works fine now.

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74 of 81 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Robert from Seattle, WA

Dryer would only heat cycle once

I removed the two screws holding the front panel to expose the lower works and verified the heating cycle failure. After a check of the vent system, checking the sensors for continuity and coils for resistance, I retired to the 'net for support. Accepting the general consensus that the most frequent, common and likely failure to be the coils, I rechecked them with the meter and found the two pronged coil to have significantly more resistance than the three prong coil. That was enough evidence to point to the coils. While I waited for the part to arrive, I replace the vent ducting. When the parts arrived I removed the two Phillips screws holding the coils, removed the old ones, installed the new ones, replaced the bracket, put the front cover back on and in less then ten minutes clothes where drying.

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60 of 67 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: James from Limington, ME

The dryer heated up for a few minutes and then cooled down.

1 Unplug power.
2. Remove the front of the unit by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Front dryer panel will swing out from the bottom and then the clips will release the top of the panel, careful not to disconnect the dryer door switch. ( can be unplugged to remove the front panel out of the way.)
3. Looking inside the unit on the right side you will see the gas value. On top of the gas unit you will see two small coils the coil closest to the burner has two leads on it. Remove the two screws to get to the coils, remove the medal plate, remove the connector then lift off the secondary coil. Replace and test. You can test unit with the front panel off. (be careful). If no heat, check that the Flat Style igniter is glowing. (ohm out both coils) before ordering parts. Intermittent heat problems. I replaced the secondary coil, it did ohm out o:k but it had swollen and was very tight on the shaft.

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40 of 50 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: Theodore from Riverside, CA

The dryer would start to heat then the heat would stop

I changed out the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat. Mainly because that was what my research indicated was the problem. I then found some more information online that indicated the gas solenoid valves were bad. I ordered them from you and replaced them. The problem was fixed.

In order to replace the valves you need to remove the top panel. Two screws at the top of the front door assembly hold it on. Remove the screws, lift up on the front panel door assembly and move it to the side. The drum will rest in place. In the lower left corner, under the drum, you will see the solenoids. Two screws attach a plate that holds down the solenoids. Take the hold down plate off, disconnect the control wires attached to the solenoids and lift out the solenoid/control valves. To assemble everything, work backwards to the start. Good Luck

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38 of 46 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Sharon from Houston, TX

Dryer would get hot for a while, then quit heating

After reading about other people with this same problem I took a chance that this would be what was wrong with my dryer.I took off the front cover of the dryer by removing two screws. I located the faulty coils and simply plugged in the 2 new coils Tah-dah Probably coud have been done without even removing the front panel, but since it was off I vacuumed out the lint ( actually my husband did all of the above, but I tell a better tale than he does and I diagnosed the problem and ordered theparts)

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35 of 40 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Steven from Sauk Village, IL

Intermittent or no gas ignition, hsi ignightor working

Removed front of gas dryer and cleaned all lint out. Checked HSI, and cleaned flame sensor. Split (3 terminal) gas coil terminals were intermittent. Read about 700 ohms across outer two terminals, but center terminal to either outer terminal was open (Infiniti on meter) 2 terminal coil measured about 550 ohms. 3 terminal coil should read about 700 ohms across outer terminals, and about 1.5K ohms center to outer terminals. Unscrewed index cover plate and replaced coil, 2 terminal coil was okay. Reassembled and finished 12 loads of laundry no problems at all.

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34 of 38 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: Jack from Conroe, TX

Gas burner would not ignite

(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)

Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unplug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.

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31 of 38 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Richard from Jerome, MI

Dryer would dry for 5-10 minuets then no heat

I tested the dryer coils and found that they were getting a voltage but would not open the gas valve. Coils were not bad but weak. After they warmed up they would not open the gas valve. It took 10 min to repace both coils and the heat sensor.

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29 of 34 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Customer: David from Bedford, IN

Dryer would start and heat, but after 1st cycle the burner would not fire and a buzzing sound was coming from the gas valve solenoid area. Igniter and other functions worked fine.

Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.

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27 of 34 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Monique from Mission Viejo, CA

My dryer only heats up at the beginning of cycle so my clothes will not dry.

I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.

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25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Ryan from Livonia, MI

Dryer would not continuously heat, and took several cycles to dry clothes. The flame would ignite and heat the dryer at first, but then would ignite and go out quickly for the rest of the cycle. I tried the thermostats first with no luck.

I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wires connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.

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Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS334310
Manufacturer Part Number: 279834
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