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334299-1-S-Whirlpool-279816            -Thermal Cut-Off Kit
334299-1-S-Whirlpool-279816            -Thermal Cut-Off Kit 334299-2-S-Whirlpool-279816            -Thermal Cut-Off Kit 334299-3-S-Whirlpool-279816            -Thermal Cut-Off Kit https://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/1UWBSRZ4.gif

Thermal Cut-Off Kit

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$35.86
Get this part fast. Average delivery time via standard shipping: 1.8 days.

PartSelect Number PS334299
Manufacturer Part Number 279816
Manufactured by Whirlpool

The thermal cut off turns off the heating component when the dryer overheats, ensuring there is a consistent level of heat at all times. This dryer thermal cut-off kit includes one high-limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees). This kit also includes flat heaters with jumper wires. If your dryer is not starting properly, shutting off too soon or is taking too long to dry your clothes it could be because it has blown and needs to be replaced. This is a genuine OEM part that comes directly from the manufacturer.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, KitchenAid, Maytag, Estate, Inglis, Crosley, Amana, Admiral, Magic Chef.

This part works with the following products: Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • No heat or not enough heat.
  • Takes too long to dry.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Too hot.
  • Shuts off too soon.
  • Timer will not advance.
  • Will not shut off.

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Most Helpful

Question:

My dryer is having trouble heating up, or heating at all. Based on what your site is saying it may be the thermostat with the thermal fuse. Does that sound right, and is this what I need to make the repair?

Kyle
Answer:

Hi Kyle, your diagnosis is correct. This assembly 279816 is what you will need to repair your dryer, and it is the right part for your model. Best of luck with this repair.

9 people found this helpful.
Question:

I am getting no heat but i have continuity and the heating coils have voltage.

Micha
Answer:

Hi Micha, we recommend first disconnecting the wires to the heater and checking them for 240 volts across both. If you do not have the 240, you need to find where you are losing the rest. I hope this helps.

4 people found this helpful.
Question:

What is wiring order for this repair?

Jonathan
Answer:

Hello Jonathan, the order of the wiring from your motor should go to the heater, then to the thermal cut off, and from there to the high limit, and then to the timer. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

3 people found this helpful.
Question:

Dryer runs, but no heat have tested everything? I am getting 240 at back of machine but only about 5-8 at wires going into heater coil. Any ideas? All other components have continuity. Am i testing correctly for voltage to heater coil?

David for model number AED4475TQ1
Answer:

Hello David, thank you for contacting us. It may not be the heating element. There is a High-Limit Thermostat and an Operating Thermostat. If either of these are faulty they can cause the heating element to not heat up. They can be tested as well with a multimeter. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

My dryer won't dry clothes, and it runs continually, i am wondering if it would be a thermostat or the heating element? How would i go about diagnosing the problem? Thank you!

Wacey for model number Kenmore model # 11096561230
Answer:

Hello Wacey, that is a great question. It is possible that it would be on of the thermostats, you can test these with a multi-meter, as well as the heating element to determine which is at fault. Hope this help!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Hello. For the past two weeks when running my dryer it shuts off after 5 mins. As of 08-21-17 it will not turning on at all. Could this part fix this issue? Thank you in advance.

Dion for model number GEQ8858EQ0
Answer:

Hi Dion, Thank you for the great question. The first part we suggest you replace is the Thermal Fuse. This thermal fuse is designed for use in dryers. It is a safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the heating element when a dryer overheats. When this fuse is faulty, your dryer will not start or it will not heat properly and shuts off to soon. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set, It must be replaced. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Thermal Fuse
1 person found this helpful.

Most Recent

Question:

I have changed the element, high level thermostat, thermal fuse still no heat. The only piece that i have not changed is the thermal cut out. Have i missed something?

Alica for model number RED4440VQ1
Answer:

Hi Alicia, Thank you for your question. It seems like you have tried most of the parts. I would suggest testing the rest of your thermostats and testing the thermal cut out parts as well first, before replacing them. That way if they test fine, you might actually have either a door switch issue or a timer issue. You can test your door switch as well just to make sure that part is working alright too. I hope this helps. Good luck with your repair.

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

The dryer shuts off by itself at various times. Sometimes it will go the whole cycle, but most often will shut down with in a few minutes. It will shut down in any cycle, (heat or no heat, time dry or automatic). When restarted it may run the whole cycle even if it where immediately restarted. It's more likely to shut down early with a load than when empty and the motor appears to work perfectly (no detectable draw on motor and it runs smoothly). Is it possible the door switch could malfunction like this?

Walt for model number WED4800BQ1
Answer:

Hi Walt, Thank you for your inquiry. If your dryer is shutting off just shortly after it is turned on the parts you will need to look at are the thermal fuse, the drive motor, the timer, the door switch, the door strike and the door catch. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Dryer produces no heat on the low setting. High settings seem ok. Are there separate coils in the heating element for the low setting? On low, none of the elements heat up. On high, some do.

Steve for model number RED4440VQ1
Answer:

Hello Steve, thank you for contacting us. These could be caused from a faulty thermostat or heating element. You can test these parts with a multi-meter to determine which is at fault. Hope this helps!

Question:

The clip at the end of the heating coil that goes through the ceramic insert that attaches to the heat thermostat 105/3086 on the bottom of the heat box has burned and broken off need to replace the clip that goes through the ceramic part that is crimped onto the end of heating coil. Also why would this clip look like its been welded and disintegrated off

Rick Grenier for model number 11066862501
Answer:

Hi Rick, Thank you for the question, the clip is not sold separately from the heating element so the heating element will need to be replaced. I can not say why the clip become defective and burnt off or looks welded , it could have been a defect in the clip. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

No matter what temperature selection i put on the temp control it always puts out maximum heat. Readings on w/blu and w/pur contacts change from infinite, 0.3, 1.3k, 2.5k and infinite ohms when cycling through the settings from air only to high heavy respectively.

Tony for model number WED5300VW0 clothes dryer
Answer:

Hello Tony, thank you for contacting us. The heating element would be more common for over heating. If the element is partially shorted out, it may produce heat continuously, even if the dryer has reached the proper temperature. When this happens, the dryer gets too hot. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multimeter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. Hope this helps!

Question:

Iv been working on this two times,, first , the dryer didn't have heat, i checked the e!Cement, yep it was broke, put a new one in, worked for a week, then the dryer stopped running, the thermal fuse broke, replaced it, but,,, now i find the heat is extremely hot, from all three settings, cool to hot, is it the reostat switch temp switch, or the extreme temp switch, or others ,, i don't want to have to replace any thing iv already done,,,, the exhaust tubes are cleaned, and work fine,, thanks for info!!!

Steve for model number TEDS840PQ
Answer:

Hi Steve, Thank you for your inquiry. The majority of the time the part to replace if the dryer is too hot is the internal bias thermostat, part number PS11741405. The second most common part to fix the issue is the thermal cut-off kit, part number PS334299. I would check both parts with a multimeter to verify which one is causing the issue. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

When reconnecting the wires to the cutoff part on the heating element as well as adjacent parts does it matter which terminal the 2 wires going to each part are connected to?

Don
Answer:

Hi Don, Thank you for your inquiry. Yes, I believe that it does matter. For the thermostat that is at the bottom near the heating element prongs, the jumper wire is supposed to connect to the left hand side element prong and the bottom prong of the thermostat. For the thermal fuse, you should have two wires separated by a strap that holds the whole harness together. The top wire should snap into the top prong of the fuse, and the wire underneath the strap snaps into the bottom prong of your fuse. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.7 / 5.0, 117 reviews What's this?
 

18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Cut-Off Kit
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Gary from Seguin, TX

Dryer would not heat

First I removed the two wires from the overheat fuse, then I removed the 1 screw and removed the fuse. I installed the new overheat fuse and attached with 1 screw, then reconnected the 2 wires. I attached the back cover with two screws and tested the dryer. It was working, so I finished attaching the back with the remaining screws and exhaust duct. Installation complete.
Note: Two weeks later I had to replace the fuse again because I had checked the duct pipe and exhaust chute, but not the bottom at the fan. Be sure to remove the flat exhaust duct and check for bulid-up at the bottom under the fan.

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8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Timothy from Anderson, IN

Dryer would spin but no heat

First I unplugged the dryer from 240V and removed the back cover upper (behind the switch) and lower (exposing the remainder of the parts)

Inside the upper section was a folded wiring diagram of the dryer (don't know if this was courtesy of Whirlpool or another individual, but it was a very nice touch.)

I did a resistance measurement across the heating coil and found out it was fine. I then plugged the dryer back in and carefully took voltage measurements from one phase of power (this was easily accessed where the power comes in to the dryer, just be careful not to touch or short the wires)

I had an assistant turn on the dryer (this makes things go a little faster, as you are behind the dryer otherwise) and checked for 240V across the heater coil.

Once I did not have this, I kept one lead on the left side wire (one of the power phases coming into the dryer) and moved the other lead to the left (as viewed on the wiring diagram) until I no longer had 240V. This identified the faulty component as the Thermostat High-Limit, non resetable.

I ordered the kit with the High Limit NR and High limit Thermostat (as both had to be bad). I also ordered the 150 degree cycling thermostat (although this was not necessary - for <$20 I opted to replace it as well)

Removing wires one at a time, each component is fairly easy to replace.

My only complaint is that with the combo kit, the wire attachment is a little different that the original component and requires you to cut an existing wire and crimp a different terminal to allow all three wires on the High Limit thermostat (250 degrees) to be attached. There is little to show you how exactly the crimp is to be connected (it goes on the smaller of the three wires - DO NOT CUT the jumper provided and USE A GOOD CRIMPER - not the $2 variety, or you'll be getting a new connector!!) The connector provided is designed for some strain relief from one connector to the other, however) An additional jumper with the appropriate connectors already attached would be a nicer design.

Also, make sure you do NOT screw in the smaller cover that covers the power in until you place the entire lower half cover back on the dryer (unless you want to take it off a second time, as I did...) as it uses a common screw to hold both in place.

Overall, fairly easy to do with a minimum of tools, straight blade screwdriver to remove stubborn wire connectors (esp. for HT thermostat 250), ratchet and socket for quick removal and replacement of covers, and a good T&B style crimper ($10-$20 at your local hardware and well worth it even if you only use it a couple of times)

30 minutes and done - the dryer now cranks out the heat and the advanced settings (Auto dry) work great - no more 2-3 times throug to get things dry.

If you have a minimum of mechanical ability and a little bit of electronic troubleshooting skill, you can check and repair this youself and save about an $80-$100 service call.

Thanks to Part Select for the diagram of the dryer layout as well!! (Schematic would be nice if available online, though!)

Shipped the part in about 2 days from order time, as well. Will be back (hopefully not soon, though, as something has to break first!!!)

Be safe and good luck!

(One last note: Make sure your lint trap is clear including the hose - either due to build up or a lazy kid...as this probably caused the failure as heat could not escape...)

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12 of 24 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: larry from decatur, IL

Dryer would't heat up and noticed a smell of something very hot just prior to dryer not heating up.

Prior to ordering parts i moved the dryer out and took the back off the dryer with a nutdriver. I noticed right a way the heating element was damaged and burnt up. I ordered the above parts and recieved them in two to three days. the parts on my dryer were easy to get to and I just matched up the parts i recieved and replaced them one at a time. It only took a nit driver to remove them and plug the wires back in to the new parts.
the dryer works like new again.

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7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: ANN from COON RAPIDS, IA

Dryer would tumble but not heat.

Used an inexpensive multi-meter to detect that there was no continuity through thermal cut-off (high end) or disposable thermal fuse. I identified these parts by reading your online schematic of the dryer. I noted that the flexible ducting had been crushed on the dryer which lead to the feasibility that the thermal cut offs, especially the thermal fuse could have burnt out. Ordered the parts on Monday, drying clothes again on Wednesday.

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4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Jacqulyn from ANDERSON, CA

Dryer air would not heat

Boyfriend stated it was simple, he removed the back and replaced the part using a few everyday tools.

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5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Karen from Millington, MI

The ice guide for our fridge was broken. No heat for the dryer.

The ice guide snapped right in 2 minute job.
With the dryer I had to remove the back of the dryer which was about 8 screws another 5 screws for the One time use thermal fuse, the thermal cut-off kit and the high limit thermostat. I used a nut driver and it took about 20 minutes. I am not sure which part needed to be replaced but seeing that I had bought all 3, I replaced all three.
The dryer works fine now.

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4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Abrahan from Laredo, TX

Dryer works but does not heat and dry

first, I read the other repair stories and used them as a guide.I checked to see if the heating element was broken. It was not. The Thermal Cut off Kit was the ticket for me. I replaced the three easy parts it contained. Repair time was 30 minutes tops that includes checking the heating element and removing and replacing all three possible culprits (of the Thermal Cut-off Kit). Thanks a million. Happy Ending!Oh by the way, my dryer now dries super fast(saving me a bundle)

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5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Stephen from Wilson, NY

Poor dryer performance and slow drying!

I knew that the dryer needed a new belt and since the dryer was also failing to dry the clothes in one cycle, I decided to replace the three thermostats, figuring that I might as well do all three if I'm going to open up the dryer. I downloaded a schematic of the dryer from the Whirlpool web site, which helped me to order the right parts and see how I would be able to make the repairs. Once I figured out how to get to the drum for the belt replacement, installation was quite easy.

First step was to unplug the dryer, remove the vent hose and remove the back panel with a nut driver. Once the back panel was removed, it was easy to see all three sensors. The heating element unit was easy to remove - two screws. This made it easier to replace the sensor. Each sensor was shaped differently, making it easier to decide what went where. This normally would not have been a problem, but the part numbers have changed for this dryer. I could have also cross referenced the parts by using the partselect.com web site.

To access the dryer drum, I had to remove two screws on the back of the dryer that are located in two tabs that hold the control panel to the dryer cabinet. Once removed, it was easy to lift the top of the cabinet and swing it up and against a nearby wall for support while I replaced the belt.
I removed the old belt from the motor pulley, and then just removed the whole drum. I placed the new belt around the drum, placed the drum back in position. With my wife supporting the drum, it was easy to bring the belt through a guide and slip over the motor pulley. Then, I rotated the drum manually to make sure the belt wasn't twisted.

After ten minutes of putting everything back together, it was time to plug in the dryer and test it. I did it without a load first and checked the vent for hot air. After that, we did a couple of loads...one on high and one on perma press, and when the cycle was over, the clothes were dry!

Delivery time from PartSelect was super fast! Prices are excellent, and I really appreciate such a helpful web site. Anyone with a small amount of mechanical ability and "do it yourself" experience can save $$$ by fixing it yourself. Having someone service this dryer would have cost me more just to replace the belt.....let alone the added insurance of replacing the sensors. And, I learned that if the heating element should fail, replacing it would be a snap, and would start with a visit toe partselect.com!

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5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Cut-Off Kit
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Christopher from Orlando, FL

Dryer quit heating

I removed the hex head screws from the back of the dryer and removed the back panel, after unplugging the dryer. I tested the various electrical components until I found that the upper limit temp fuse had gone out. Came to partselect.com and found the kit I needed and ordered it. When it came in, I replaced the upper temp limit fuse, and the other parts that came with the kit. I also, since the back was open, used the opportunity to vacuum out the blower fan and as much of the lint as I could get to. Dryer works great now!

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4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Cut-Off Kit
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Richard from Eaton, OH

No heat

The dryer stopped heating, it would only blow cold air. I removed the back panel and tested the thermal fuse with a dmm. The fuse was open, so it was bad and I needed a new one. I tested the thermostat and the dmm measured continuity across the terminals, so I thought it was good, bad assumption. I ordered a thermal fuse from partsselect and it came with a thermostat. Like a dummy, I only installed the fuse. The 1st time I ran the dryer the fuse blew again, because the thermostat was bad. So, moral of the story, install both parts.

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3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Richard from Fairfield, VA

Dryer blew air but no heat

Our dryer quit heating and I feared that I would have to buy another one as I have never worked on a dryer. But figured I would go online and see what I could learn. Parts Select gave me the info that I needed.
Not being sure which part was bad I decided to start with the one time use Thermal fuse. When I noticed that it only cost 7 bucks and my wife had been complaining that the dryer had not been heating well for a while I figured I would go ahead and replace themostat. I ordered the thermal cut-off kit and replaced both parts. I put them on and plugged it back up and it is heating fine. I found the videos very helpful in showing how to do this.

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3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Cut-Off Kit
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: linda from buckeye, AZ

Dryer would work, didn't have any heat.

unpluged the dryer, took off the back, followed instructions and was able to take of the problem on my own.

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3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: Gary from East Durham, NY

Dryer would not start

I put in the new parts but it still did not work, Turned out the Thermal Fuse Blew,removed the two wires and clipped them together and the Dryer worked, have to replace the Thermal fuse and everything will be OK.

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3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: cory from Glen Carbon, IL

No heat

To be short and sweet, the repair was simple once I got the parts I ordered which came really quick. I put them on and it worked fine. Ez to install as well. It only takes half the time to dry, it seems to work better than when it was new. I saved hundreds. The repair man was going to charge $69.99 just to come out to see what the problem was. The parts I needed were under $100 so figured I'd try an do it myself, after reading others repair stories. I did it! I will be a repeat customers if something else breaks down. Thanks Partselect.

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3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermal Cut-Off Kit
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Daniel from Pinellas Park, AL

Dryer wouldn't heat

I attempted to take the back panel off the dryer only to discover all I had to do (after removing 10 or so screws) is remove the lower base plate in the front of the dryer. I also had removed the door which turned out to be unnecessary. After removing a guard in front of the heating element (2 screws) I yanked the the element housing that contained the heating element and then disconnected the 6 wires. Using my first ever, newly bought multi meter for only $9.99 from Radio Shack, I turned the dial to the infinity section and check the element for continuency. I did this by touching the meter's two probes to the element's terminals were the wires connect. The element was fine. Then I checked the two sensors the same way. The sensor furtherest away from the element's terminals didn't have a constant signal so I assumed that that sensor was bad. Well, come to find out, one sensor is open and the other in closed... only when the temp. changes do they operate by opening and closing the current. By this time I had already ordered the part so it was too late. Surprisingly, the part came in 2 days. I ordered it Sunday night and i figured it would be sent out Monday but it was already in the air Monday morning... Great service! I replaced both sensors and the dryer works like it did when I first got it.

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Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS334299
Manufacturer Part Number: 279816
Brand Model Number Description
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